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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys

Just bought some discs and pads for the GT. Is it an easy enough job or should I just pay and get it done?

advice and a guide would be much appreciated

thanks
 

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The fact that you are asking means that you should have someone else do it or do it with an experienced mate present. Apart from freeing any seized components and knowing where to apply anti squeal / anti seize compound pads and discs are actually a very easy task for those who have done it before.
 

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Don't forget that the rears need a re-wind tool to get them back in, there are lots of threads on this.
 

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get some brake cleaner too to clean the anti rust guard off the disks before you fit them !! its not hard job if u take in all the above comments, clean up all the parts where pads touch and apply copper slip, file paint off the edges of pads where they sit and copper slip them as well, and on the back where the piston will touch, dont use any old grease, copper slip is best for this job, a garage may not even do that....!
 

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For someone who is generally good with their hands, DIY etc changing pads by following a guide can be easy. But like so many other jobs on cars, problems can crop up that on line guides don't cover. On a first attempt I think the advice of getting your work checked by someone experienced is good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the tips.

Do i need a caliper rewind tool for the front.

If i never try il never learn.even if say so self im not too bad at diy!
 

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Thanks for all the tips.

Do i need a caliper rewind tool for the front.

If i never try il never learn.even if say so self im not too bad at diy!
No only for the rear, you can lever the fronts back - don't forget to check the brake fluid reservoir level as fluid will be forced back into the reservoir
 

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Don't work on the car while its on the supplied Alfa jack, always support the car on axle stands. Ideally use a trolly jack (surprisingly cheap) to lift it if you can - much better. I always put the wheel I've taken off under the car then if it does fall off the stands its not going to end up on the ground.
 

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If the disks are rusted on, hitting with a club hammer in the 12, 6, 3 & 9 o'clock positions helps. Don't forget to clean up the hub face and apply a little copper slip to make it easier next time.
 

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Just give it a shot - its easy peasy

I put high temp paint on hub area of the disc - keeps it looking shiny and the car looking younger.
 

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To clarify PDAD advice. When you lever the front pistons back into the calliper the displaced brake fluid is forced back into the main reservoir. If that is already full the extra fluid will spill out and over the engine bay and onto your drive or garage floor.

The thing about brake fluid is that it can be a pretty good paint stripper so make sure this doesn't happen and if it does wash down with lots of water.

If your reservoir is already full you can fit a brake bleed pipe onto a calliper bleed nipple, loosen the nipple and catch the excess in a small container.

It is simple things like this that are made so much easier if the first time you do it you do it with someone who genuinely knows how as well as knows the tricks and additional checks that avoid a frayed temper and frustration.
 

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Or you can suck the fluid out of the reservoir with a syringe - saves any risk of letting air into the system.
The by the book method is to loosen the bleed nipple to avoid forcing fluid the wrong way through the master cylinder but if you mess it up you risk needing to bleed the brakes which if you don't have a helper handy (or a Gucci bleeding machine) is nearly impossible..
 

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Just done the fronts on my 2003 156 jts, replaced the pads with Ferodo ds2500's. Quite easy if you've got a basic understanding, i've never done anything with brakes on a car... only bikes.

The rears were/are a different matter, I need to replace discs and pads (Brembo discs and ds2500 pads) ...I'm on my 4th attempt!
1st mistake was trying to take the caliper braket mount(or whatever its called) off rather than just the caliper (a 13mm and a 17mm spanner at the far end of the flexi rubber guard- dead easy)
2nd was trying to get the caliper piston back without a wind back tool.. no chance, had a go with the tool tonight... Soooo easy!!
3rd fail... DC Performance sent me the wrong pads!! would have been nice to have spotted this earlier but there you go!

syringe for the fluid works great!

hope this helps... can someone confirm these are the wrong pads for my car or am i mental? :vomit:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Decided late in day to have a go after gathering all the tools with the intention of doing brakes tomorrow.

Managed to get one side front done, did take me a lot longer than expected. Couple of guides really helped. I the other side front should be much quicker.

The rears I cant find a guide to. Only difference am guessing will be dealing with the handbrake cable. Do I need to loosen it from the hand brake lever inside of the car?
 
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When I did my very first set of discs and pads I made a number of **** ups I shall now share.
1) if you don't remove or unscrew the lid to the fluid reservoir and then try and use a big G clamp to retract the front pistons, the cap will split.
2) putting the front caliper anti rattle springs back incorrectly actually forces the pads off of the disc as you drive and needs 3 full pumps to get the pads on the disc.
3) washing up liquid and water does not work like Blake cleaner.
4) a rear caliper wind back tool is not optional, it is necessary. A pair of needle nose pliers and brute force does not work.
5) Halfords does not open late on Sunday when you realise you have no thread lock, copper grease, brake cleaner etc and you can't put it all back together until you have some. No matter how much you beg and cry on the phone to them at 3.59pm.

Hard learning curve.
 

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Decided late in day to have a go after gathering all the tools with the intention of doing brakes tomorrow.

Managed to get one side front done, did take me a lot longer than expected. Couple of guides really helped. I the other side front should be much quicker.

The rears I cant find a guide to. Only difference am guessing will be dealing with the handbrake cable. Do I need to loosen it from the hand brake lever inside of the car?
I did loosen the hand brake at the leaver the first time but tonight's attempt I didn't bother and it didn't hinder at all... maybe there is a mechanical reason for loosening it that a better experienced member could explain?
Put the car in first gear and leave the hand break off (use chocks under the wheels too be sure).
The rear calliper is very different to the front!, i thought the front would be good training for doing the rear... not really.

...be sure to check the pads look the same as the ones your taking out = my mistake!
 

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Not essential or even necessary, but you can get some high temp calliper paint for about £5 from halfords (red, black or silver, but there may be other colours available), which is a quick and easy job whilst the wheel is off, and makes your callipers look better; just use a wire brush and then brillo pad to clean and then a quick wipe down before painting.
 
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