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Discussion Starter #1
My C/L stopped working off the driver's side door key a while ago.

Using the key works fine on the passenger door but not on the driver's side. Lifting and lowering the internal door button etc. it all works fine. So I think fundamentally it's all okay.

I took the door lock cylinder off and replaced it, as the sleeve looked a bit worn. When you turn the key it moves a locking arm. The locking arm gets only so far.. just not enough to "trip" the lock. If you push the mechanism manually (just another few mm) it trips.

New cylinder didn't solve the problem! :(

Next suspect was the door latch mechanism. I put a new one on, in case it was worn internally. Obviously the moving arm gets to a point where it has to trip the lock and if the old lock is worn, it won't trip, even if the (new.. it came with the cylinder) locking arm is now moving the lever enough.

Again, a new lock mases no difference. :( :(

So... the new lock moves a new lifting arm to lift a lever on a new lock. There's no adjstability etc. nothing loose or slack, yet it doesn't work off the key. :confused:


If I move the locking lever manually it's fine, so it must all be sound (mostly) apart from if I use the key. I haven't dismantled the passenger door to compare it but it's as if turning the key *just about* doesn't lift/lower the lever enough. A few more mm's would do it. yet all the moving parts are new.

Is there a relay? My only bit of sanity hopes that there's a separate relay for each side and the driver's side is shagged.

However, I'm not hopeful as the locking lever can be nudged a bit further by hand and that trips the C/L. Really it's as if the rod connecting the lock cylinder to the lock arm is too short (to unlock) and too long (to lock). :confused: It's all new though...

HEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLP!!


Ralf S.
 

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Ralf, on the 33 there is only one relay, so I can't see this being different on the 155 :(

If I were you I would locate every rod that is connected to the locking mechanism and give it a good oil...

Then I'd pray :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's a m*&£$£$ son-of-a &£)"(* t^£%"% a£&e!

I cut my hands to buggery getting it all apart (twice!). I hate it, I hate it, I hate it!

:D


It's frickin' weird. The lock has a plastic sleeve with a ball-jointed rod attached (about 3" long). When you turn the key c/w or a/c/w the rod pulls or pushes on a lever attached to the lock. Up (a/c/w) it unlocks, Down (c/w) it locks. It's dead simple.

I originally thought the sleeve was worn as it's just plastic while the lock is metal. I though the sleeve had fretted and therefore was not moving enough when the lock turned. That's what it acts like.. but the lock and sleeve are a new part. The lock, sleeve and arm all come as a single component. All I did was put my lock barrel in it.

Maybe THAT's shagged?.. but it had a metal end piece and looked okay when I took it out. it would have to have 4 or 5mm or wear on it to be responsible for not pushing/pulling the arm "just about" not enough.



Ralf S.
 

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Are you sure you've located it correctly?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are you sure you've located it correctly?
The lock body fits into an odd-shaped hole in the door skin. There's just one way to fit it, or it doesn't fit. The 3" rod then dangles inside the door and it clips to a ball socket joint on the locking arm mechanism of the lock itself .

The lock bolts into the door with 3 screws and is non-adjustable. Everything has to fit where it's supposed to fit or you can't fit them, if that makes sense.

The fact that the old lock and the old lock cylinder don't work and neither does the new pair (£100 for nothing?!? :cry: ) suggests there's nothing wrong with the in-door set-up.

The only part I haven't changed is the lock barrel (that lets me use my original key. That must be okay (unless the stubby piece that rotates the sleeve is severely worn.. but I don't think so as mentioned above) as it physically turns the cylinder. I just need to turn it a bit more but I reach the end of the available arc of movement - the sleeve has a stop in it - without the lock tripping.

I can only imagine it's electrical.. but if I push the lever arm a bit further than the furthest it will go, with my finger, then it works, suggesting that the electrics are fine (it wouldn't work at all if the electrics were duff).

:confused:

It's haunted...!!


Ralf S.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here you go.. it's dead simple. That no.7 bit is the sleeve with the lock cylinder inside it. It has that little dangly rod which pulls/pushes a lever on the front of the lock (part 1 and 2) when you turn it. All pieces only fit one way. Can't miss really...


Ralf S.
 

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Well, I still think a lack of lubrication might be the problem, get the 3 in 1 out and give it a squirt ;)
 

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May sound like one hell of a botch, but if it's not quite lifting up enough maybe the rods become slightly straightened... just an idea but meybe a little gentle tweaking of the rod (if possible maybe in order a slight bend will bring the two ends closer together and may just push/pull it that little bit further.
 

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I've done a lot of door interiors some time ago, not your particular type. It feels to me as if there is a small spring either missing or not working, just a suggestion as I don't know the lock in question.
 

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Apologies for bumping this back up but I have exactly the same problem. I'm suspecting a spring has snapped somewhere as per the previous post.

Any update on this appreciated as it's starting to do my head in.

Thanks, Craig
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No there's no spring really involved. Check out the parts above. The lock barrel (where the key goes) lives in a plastic sleeve and that fits into the cylinder (no.7 above).

When you turn the key, the plastic rod on the end of no.7 pulls or pushes on the arm of the lock (no.1). When the arm moves a certain amount it trips the lock electronically.

There IS a spring in the system.. it fits in the back of the lock barrel between the barrel and the sleeve that fits in the cylinder but all it does is return the lock barrel to vertical when you let go of the key. So if it was broken the lock would still work.. just you would have to twist the key to vertical (to take the key out) manually.

What I think has gone wrong is that the metal barrel of the cylinder has worn out the plastic sleeve, as when it turns it pushes on a moulded slot in the sleeve. That gets elongated over time.

In mine, I changed the cylinder (it came with a new plastic sleeve and a new extension rod) but it didn't make any difference. I suspect the lock barrel itself is worn.. but that's a key-change job so for the time being I've left it.

The rod has ball joints at each end (joins the cylinder to the lock) but this is made of polypropylene.. it neither stretches nor wears out.


Ralf S.
 

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i think it must be the parts that aren't quite in the correct position, since you changed everything.

failing that, you'll have to find a way to shorten the arm that goes from the cilinder to the lock...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Aye! That's what I thought... but the cylinder fits in a slot in the door, so you can't miss.. The lock mechanism fits in the door where it is attached by 3 screws, so again it can only fit in one precise location. The arm that connects them is non-adjustable. It's a weird one.


Ralf S.
 

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I think that may well be the problem. I've had everything out of the door and re-fitted with the exception of the plastic rod that trips the latch mechanism. Means I can now only lock the door from the passenger side. Unfortunately, my remote locking packed in years ago which when you think about it is the cause of the problem I've got now :mad:
 

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It must be a fault with the 155's as mine has the exact same problem!
I have had to lock the car from the passenger side for the last few months!
 
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