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Discussion Starter #1
My vehicle has not responded well to this morning's frost and I need advice!!!

I went out to de-ice the windows and pressed the key fob button to unlock the car but it tried to unlock, then locked itself again straight away. I got in through the passenger door by opening in the half a second where the lock button was up, but couldn't open the driver's door at all, even when I had driven around and the car was warmed up.

Now when I press the button on the key fob it bleeps to set/unset the alarm, but doesn't even attempt to lock the car - it's completely dead, and I still can't open the driver's door. What can I do!!!??? eek! :confused: I don't think it can be still frozen now, but even if it was I would expect it to still at least try and lock/unlock!? Could a motor have burnt out somehow? What's going on!? Anyone solved this one before (preferrably without spending money :D )
 

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Hope with all your hopingness that it's just a fuse that's gone, as opposed to a motor burning out. If it does turn out to be a motor, I believe that Fiat something or others (Tipo's?) have the same motors and are much cheaper to aquire.

Anyway, surely you had one of those little cans of lock de-icer in your glovebox... wink
 
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Discussion Starter #3
If you need any motors/actuators give me a shout, I've got some surplus to requirement.

Steve
 
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Discussion Starter #4
True to form I forgot to consider the fuse :rolleyes:

However, on opening the fuse tray I see that there is a 30A fuse in the place where the 20A fuse should have been. The 30A fuse looks intact, and putting a new fuse in hasn't fixed the central locking. Looks like it could be more serious, and something may have been fried by the previous owner using the wrong fuse :mad:

Steve - I may need to take you up on that offer.

How can I check if the motor is OK - where is it!? Is there only one of them, or one in each door? I see there is a locking relay/ECU box in the fuse tray - how can I tell if that's working or not?

frown
 

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You could of burnt out the relay that controls the central locking system its the biggest one in the fuse box i think :confused: not sure how to test it but try giving it a knock it might just be stuck :p
 
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Discussion Starter #7
If you can't open it with your key, the motor is gone. A burned motor can block the locking-mechanism.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
.........or the mechanism/linkages are stuck/still frozen.

Can you hear it trying to unlock?

wrinx
 
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Discussion Starter #9
My old Tipo did this on occasion, admittedly, usually while open so it couldn't be locked.

When you open the door in that tiny bit of time before the door re-locks the motor that is giving the 'I am jammed so re-lock the whole car' signal gets confused. Te problem is that getting it to re-lock is a pig afterwards. I used to dis-connect the battery, then unlock and lock all the doors with the key. Then make sure all the locks are in the same position, (unlocked) and re-connect the battery. This usually got the whole system in sync again.

Not having power to the lock mechanisms should leave the solenoids all floppy by the way.

Failing that, tere is a piece on AlfaOwner.com about getting into your car if a motor is shot. That would allow the dismantel of the door to get at the motor. A lot of WD40 and a big hammer may free the jammed solenoid! Possibly!
 
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Discussion Starter #10
It isn't trying to lock/unlock at all - there's no noise when I press the key fob button (apart from the alarm system bleeps). Putting the key in the driver's door does nothing. There is no resistance to turning the key, but it does not unlock the door. Guess it'a a motor then? :( I will have to take it somewhere because presumably they will have to break in so they can take the door apart from the inside!? Is this what's described on AlfaOwner? (Which I also can't get into at the moment :rolleyes: ) It's covered on my extended warranty, I just have to neglect to tell them it was frozon at the time it broke :D
 
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Discussion Starter #11
By DaKlone............

1. I didn't bother, but if you're nervous about that kind of thing, disconnect the battery before you start.

2. Remove the trim from around the base of the seat. It is held in place by Phillips screws in the side (just under the seat pad angle lever) and back. You will need a 'stubby' screwdriver for the side one, since there isn't much room between the seat and the door.

3. Slide the seat fully forward on it's runners, and take out the two seat retaining bolts at the back.

4. Slide the seat fully backward on it's runners and take out the two seat retaining bolts at the front.

5. Take out the seat by leaning it back and feeding it out of the rear door, making sure to disconnect the seatbelt warning lamp cable that runs from under the seat to the car loom.

6. Remove the three Phillips screws from the door pocket.

7. Carefully lever out the circular armrest trim insert, and remove the Allen-head bolt behind it.

8. Pull the interior door handle, and remove the Allen-head bolt from behind it.

9. Carefully prise out the entire door handle / window switch plate out, and disconnect the wiring from the switches.

10. Disconnect the operating cable from the door handle by carefully removing the small brass 'strap' that retains the cable, and then pulling the end of the cable out of it's little recess. You can now remove the end of the wire from the handle itself.

11. Undo the two bolts that are revealed behind the door handle, that bolt the door card to the door.

12. Carefully prise out the black plastic triangle that covers the fixing screws for the wing mirror.

13. Remove the three Phillips screws that hold the wing mirror and vent tube. You won't be able to pull the vent tube out, but unbolting it now will prevent it from breaking when you pull the door card off (the voice of experience speaking!). Be careful, as once these bolts are removed the wing mirror is only held on by the adjuster wires.

14. Unscrew the door lock pull 'blob'.

15. This is where things get a bit brutal. Basically, you now have to pull the door card out. All that is holding it are the normal plastic plugs, but it takes a bit of pulling!

It's difficult to describe, but you need to pull it straight away from the door, but lift it over the door lock pull wire at the same time.

Watch the vent tube that you undid earlier, as this will fall off when the card comes off.

16. With the door card off, you can undo the nuts and bolts that hold the door interior frame on. Be careful, as a couple of the fixings in the middle of the door hold the window glass. Nothing should move far enough to break, but be careful all the same.

17. Once these are removed, you should be able to move the frame out of the way and carefully remove the plastic moisture screen.

18. Remove the sort plastic bar that goes from the door lock module to the lock barrel. It's just a ball and socket at the lock barrel end.

19. Remove the wiring from the door lock module.

20. It gets brutal again now. I drilled out the pins that hold the lock module together, and simply turned the gears inside by hand to undo the door. Of course, this means that you will need a new door module. I got mine secondhand for around £35.00 GBP

21. With the door open, you can unbolt the three bolts that hold the door lock module on from the outside as normal.

22. In finest Haynes tradition, refitting is the reverse of removal! Be careful to line the little plastic plugs up nicely before 'smacking' them home, as they are quite easy to bend.

So there you have it - lets hope you never need to do it!

wrinx
 
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Discussion Starter #12
"10. Disconnect the operating cable from the door handle by carefully removing the small brass 'strap' that retains the cable, and then pulling the end of the cable out of it's little recess."

Maybe a tip, worked for me. Pull the above cable very hard, with a pliers or some other tool. You can put a lot of force on the lock this way.
 
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