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Discussion Starter #1
If you have a whirring noise from your door lock and it does not lock read on this might help --

Biggest job so far (by me!) on the alfa (2007 159 2.4 JTDm). Wednesday night the passenger door central locking failed. Nothing but a short burst of whirring sound and the door remaining unlocked when the lock button on the key fob activated. Soon confirmed it was a single door problem – rest of the system OK. The whirring sounded pretty ominous, but at least mechanical rather than electrical failure, therefore some hope of a fix, Eventually found that the little switch that the metal key fits in the door panel by the latch activates the external lock – or more correctly – disables the external handle from opening the door. So at least I could lock the car and still open it from the inside as the interior handle brings the external handle back into operation.

So the strip down to get to the lock mechanism (luckily with the benefit of elearn):

3 cross head screws at bottom of interior panel.
Remove and disconnect puddle light – clip at rear of fixture.
1 allen bolt behind interior handle.
1 allen bolt to take grab handle off where window switch is, disconnect window switch.
2 allen bolts under grab handle moulding.
Removed small front corner trim above panel, it has a small central clip then can be removed by bending towards the interior.
Plastic blade between trim panel and door to release all the fir tree clips starting at the bottom then levering off the glass window wiper trim. Bit of fiddle but panel should come off OK remaining connected by the inner handle cable. Push the handle fitting rearwards and it will slip off the inside of the panel. Panel removed leaving an inner aluminium looking panel which actuall holds all the fittings for the window and door lock.
Removed speaker to gain some access. Removed 2 round bungs then reconnected window switch to lower window so bolts holding glass can be loosed – but not removed- releasing grip on rubber padded clamps. Lower window further but not all way to bottom, remove widow glass wiper trim by gently pulling up off door frame.
The hairy bit – lift the glass up out of the window winder mechanism– taking it up and tilting forward to remove from rear channel. It goes up and out through the outside of the car.
Disconnect retainer holding exterior mirror wiring and also the plug into the switch box. Disconnect another wire going up into the window frame.
Undo 3 door lock torx bolts.
Undo all 10mm bolts around inner panel – panel will now be loose but will not come away until :
Disconnect the main body/door loom connector and push rubber bung into door along with connector and the bit they don’t tell you – push the main loom bung through the inner panel to prevent the shape of the sealing bung fouling on the door frame and holding the inner panel in place. Inner panel must be removed at the front first to allow it to swing away so you can disconnect the exterior door handle cable from the locking mechanism. Releasing the inner panel is a pig because the window runner channel foul on the door aperture at the front lower and top too but with a bit of jiggling, lifting and rotating it will come away.
Disconnect electrical connection to lock mechanism then remove lock from bracket on inner panel. Remove inner door handle cable from lock (its under a white plastic hinged cover) and it is the usual bent rod. 2 small Phillips screws hold the plastic cover on lock mechanism. This plastic cover also holds motors for activating the locking and deadlocking function. Press 2 plastic clips and the plastic and metal can be parted to reveal all the interior locking mechanism.
And the problem was: a tiny brass cog had become loose on the motor spindle so was not being driven securely. Pulled the cog off, roughed up the spindle, tapped the cog back on and made sure it was really tight. Topped off with some superglue down the inner drilled hole through the cog.

And fitting is all the reverse of the above with care to make sure loom wire sits around front window runner not across it, speaker aperture helps in feeding loom back up to hole in frame. Take care putting glass back in, bit of a fiddle but should not need force!

So if you get a short burst of a whirring noise from the door when central locking and door remains locked/unlocked you may well have this problem. Hope I've remembered all the details - - - Good luck.
 

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wonder if this will become a common problem.... had this problem about 6 months ago, not a enjoyable job to replace the mechanism but hell that sound makes such a nice car look scrappy so it had to be done!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
luckily I managed to ,so far, fix the motor without having to buy a new lock but can't be sure how long it will last. Just fingers crossed for now.
 

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Hi. I have same problem on 2009 2.4Ti SW but it is the nearside REAR door that refuses to lock. Where on earth did you find strip down instructions ... or is it all your own (fantastic) step by step recall ?? Appreciate any pointers. Thks (contacting ALFA UK since car is 12 days out of its <3yr> warranty ... b****r :-(
 

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Discussion Starter #5
looked over the elearn cd but recall of reality is my memory! therefore No warranty! My fear has always been that the central locking fails to unlock when shut. Don't know how you could get in then? Ultimate way in would be to destroy the door with an angle grinder! True of all cars now I suspect, but having never heard of the problem I guess the risk is very low.
 

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Quick update ... Door lock replaced by HWM Alfa Dealer (Walton-on-Thames). Cost £151 inc. Guess I was lucky my lock failed in the 'unlocked' position. It sounds a nightmare if it fails in the 'locked' position ?? During the repair, the window regulator (?) collapsed (something to do with tensioning of the glass fitment) ... HMW had to replace said regulator at a cost to them of £100 (and car not available 'til next day). Sounds like a pig of a job. WELL DONE to you for completing successfully (braver man than me ;-)
ps: Alfa UK declined any goodwill payment for the 12days out of warranty (expected really ... ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
at least it was open when it failed! I had to install a new lock about 2 weeks ago. By then I had got replacement time down to 20 mins to get it out and 25 to get it all put back together. Locking unit was approx £70. The special thing about ALFa is that the regulator and window mechanism are all on a bolted in panel that is a bit of a pig to get out the door. You need everything at the correct position and a bit of luck it seems to me - but I've always been a believer that if someone can make it I can unmake it!! £151 sound like part plus hour and a bit labour to me so fair price!
 

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Seems I have a rather similar problem. I was on a trip to the mountains and simply checked all doors after locking when parked. I've never done this before as I hear the locks click and see the diode on the drivers door blink. But as I was to leave my beloved Alfa alone unattended for a few nights in the mountains, I did the check. I discovered in fear that the passenger door wasn't locked…and I couldn't make it. There is no keyhole on this door and the central locking system wouldn't lock it. It had probably been like this a long time without me knowing. Had to leave it open, but didn't sleep well that night.

There is no swirling noise or anything on my car and the dealer said I had to replace the lock mechanism.
I'm no mechanic and by the look of the step-by-step procedure here, I think I'll leave it to the dealer.

Still, my car is a late 2010 (MY2011) with just 30.000 kms on the clock. Are the locks so bad I'll have to replace them every other year? I've had a lot of other branded cars, many of them old, but never had a problem with locks.
 

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Sorry to be a pain, tried following your instructions but I've got stuck. Door panel is off, the white central locking unit is loose but the spindle coming from the exterior lock (drivers side) is holding it in place. How do I remive the exterior door handle? I've undone 2 nuts which has made the exterior handle and surround loose but not enought to move away
 

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If you have a whirring noise from your door lock and it does not lock read on this might help --

Biggest job so far (by me!) on the alfa (2007 159 2.4 JTDm). Wednesday night the passenger door central locking failed. Nothing but a short burst of whirring sound and the door remaining unlocked when the lock button on the key fob activated. Soon confirmed it was a single door problem – rest of the system OK. The whirring sounded pretty ominous, but at least mechanical rather than electrical failure, therefore some hope of a fix, Eventually found that the little switch that the metal key fits in the door panel by the latch activates the external lock – or more correctly – disables the external handle from opening the door. So at least I could lock the car and still open it from the inside as the interior handle brings the external handle back into operation.

So the strip down to get to the lock mechanism (luckily with the benefit of elearn):

3 cross head screws at bottom of interior panel.
Remove and disconnect puddle light – clip at rear of fixture.
1 allen bolt behind interior handle.
1 allen bolt to take grab handle off where window switch is, disconnect window switch.
2 allen bolts under grab handle moulding.
Removed small front corner trim above panel, it has a small central clip then can be removed by bending towards the interior.
Plastic blade between trim panel and door to release all the fir tree clips starting at the bottom then levering off the glass window wiper trim. Bit of fiddle but panel should come off OK remaining connected by the inner handle cable. Push the handle fitting rearwards and it will slip off the inside of the panel. Panel removed leaving an inner aluminium looking panel which actuall holds all the fittings for the window and door lock.
Removed speaker to gain some access. Removed 2 round bungs then reconnected window switch to lower window so bolts holding glass can be loosed – but not removed- releasing grip on rubber padded clamps. Lower window further but not all way to bottom, remove widow glass wiper trim by gently pulling up off door frame.
The hairy bit – lift the glass up out of the window winder mechanism– taking it up and tilting forward to remove from rear channel. It goes up and out through the outside of the car.
Disconnect retainer holding exterior mirror wiring and also the plug into the switch box. Disconnect another wire going up into the window frame.
Undo 3 door lock torx bolts.
Undo all 10mm bolts around inner panel – panel will now be loose but will not come away until :
Disconnect the main body/door loom connector and push rubber bung into door along with connector and the bit they don’t tell you – push the main loom bung through the inner panel to prevent the shape of the sealing bung fouling on the door frame and holding the inner panel in place. Inner panel must be removed at the front first to allow it to swing away so you can disconnect the exterior door handle cable from the locking mechanism. Releasing the inner panel is a pig because the window runner channel foul on the door aperture at the front lower and top too but with a bit of jiggling, lifting and rotating it will come away.
Disconnect electrical connection to lock mechanism then remove lock from bracket on inner panel. Remove inner door handle cable from lock (its under a white plastic hinged cover) and it is the usual bent rod. 2 small Phillips screws hold the plastic cover on lock mechanism. This plastic cover also holds motors for activating the locking and deadlocking function. Press 2 plastic clips and the plastic and metal can be parted to reveal all the interior locking mechanism.
And the problem was: a tiny brass cog had become loose on the motor spindle so was not being driven securely. Pulled the cog off, roughed up the spindle, tapped the cog back on and made sure it was really tight. Topped off with some superglue down the inner drilled hole through the cog.

And fitting is all the reverse of the above with care to make sure loom wire sits around front window runner not across it, speaker aperture helps in feeding loom back up to hole in frame. Take care putting glass back in, bit of a fiddle but should not need force!

So if you get a short burst of a whirring noise from the door when central locking and door remains locked/unlocked you may well have this problem. Hope I've remembered all the details - - - Good luck.
Are you saying the little plastic ? Thing in front door edge does the opposite to the child locks on the rear doors. ? Is that because thereis no key hole on the door ?
 

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Sorry this is on a spider, drivers side. The lock barrel has a spindle that goes into the white plastic unit which I need to get out. There's not enough room for it be detached so I need to remove the exterior door handle with lock and barrel and spindle so the white plastic unit is free.

Just to update, the locking mechanism is set as locked with the door open so as of now the door will not shut!!! Help please
 
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