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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Firstly thank you for the confirmation on the earth question.

So just some spent 3 + hours getting the SM off, with some coursing.....

Dom, I conducted the bench test as you suggested and the result was.... the starter engaged on connection to the small spade and did dis-engaged when I removed the connection; thinking this has now proven that the starter is good or not???. So really flummoxed as to what next (put the SM back in I guess, and try again). However before I do should I carry out any other checks???? If not the SM thoughts on next steps would be appreciated.

Picture of the setup of the SM on the bench for confirmation. Also a pic of the SM label just to confirm correct model, definitely 9 teeth.





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Knowing the work involved, I'd be loathe to put that back on, although, tbh, I don't know what more to suggest!
(you do come across threads where a starter was removed because of a problem, bench tested ok then fails when back on the car...I suppose on the car it's under load, on the bench not)

If it were mine I would either get a professional shop to check it, or open it up myself and look if I could spot something untoward.

do the flywheel teeth look sharp? not unduly messed up?
 

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BB seems to think your starter # is for a 72/74.

"72/74 2ltr 130 9 001-211-987 four brushes/2 bolt solenoid 001-211-025 two brushes/2bolt solenoid. Both .7hp w/3 bolt mounting"

I think that is for 130 ring gear teeth
Your 87 likely has 131 ring gear
Both have 9 teeth but there is something different in the angle....
I am just wondering if that starter is not for your car?
Maybe ask CA

post 8,11,12 here seems to list the possibles
all a little difficult to follow...
Starter/Flywheel Question
 

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Perhaps the starter teeth are sticking in the ring gear. If the pinion can't retract the the connection won't be broken and the starter will keep turning. Would make sense if there are different ring gears
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thank you both for your help. I’m defiantly going to need to get a new SM now in any case, whilst taking it out of the vice it dropped and smashed the solenoid terminal. Not having much look here. I did check it against the old SM which was on the engine previously and they do have some noticeable difference so I agree there’s probably an answer to the problem there.

I will call CA and speak to them, new one will be on it’s way tomorrow hopefully....

Quote:
“Every adversity, every failure, every heartache carries with it the seed of an equal or greater benefit”. I might be ready for next summer


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ask CA for a starter for the 87 spider, then ask them what is the Bosch number on it.

from what I can decipher on various BB threads, the starter for your S3 spider is very likely a Bosch 0.001.108.024 (or 0001108024) and that is listed as a 1.4KW starter
....anyway ask CA, they really ought to know these things by now...
 

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Discussion Starter #27
ask CA for a starter for the 87 spider, then ask them what is the Bosch number on it.

from what I can decipher on various BB threads, the starter for your S3 spider is very likely a Bosch 0.001.108.024 (or 0001108024) and that is listed as a 1.4KW starter
....anyway ask CA, they really ought to know these things by now...
Great, thank you.


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what are the differences you can spot between the old starter and the one you just removed?
is the nose longer (ie. would it make better contact with the flywheel kind of thing), or is the pinion wheel cut subtly different?
what is the bosch number on the old one?
 

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Discussion Starter #29
what are the differences you can spot between the old starter and the one you just removed?
is the nose longer (ie. would it make better contact with the flywheel kind of thing), or is the pinion wheel cut subtly different?
what is the bosch number on the old one?
Dom pic attached for ref. Much difference in the size but the noes’s look the same. There are 9 teeth. The main body’s are very different. The PT No on the old one is 1005821071, but as you can see any other details are lost.

I emailed CA this AM and they are going to confirm but looking at the other options on line there is a 9 teeth, 1.4 SM for my year of car available. Hopefully this will work once I get one, bad news is there £100+ more then the last one...






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Discussion Starter #30
Again thank you for your time and help with this matter.

So new and correct SM arrived this week and I have just fitted it. Great news is that it seems to work fine, turns over and disengages as required using the ignition. So on to putting her back together and adding fuel ready for the first start trials...... Of note CA told me that the SM provided previously should work with my model and year of car, it appears that it doesn’t with my car so I will report this back to them on sending the new/old unit back. I must say that they are always very helpful with my questions and problems so I am not in anyway disappointed with them.

Before I get back to it a few more questions if I may.

The pic attached is of the middle SM bolt which is new and purchased from a provider, whilst the SM was off I thought I would check it. Looking at it it does look like the right one but seems short in length. The bolt head is not 13mm but 9/16ths which is different to all other bolts on the car. Have I got the right one?

Also, and hoping this is good news, the oil light does go out as I turn over the engine. I presume this means I have oil pressure? Is there any other way of checking that oil is getting around the engine before I go further??

Thanks again for any advice in advance. Regards Neil








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sounds like you found the starter running on problem.

as long as the bolt pokes out through the nut when it is all tightened down, I'd say it is OK.
If the threads don't, I'd be wary. Try thinner washers.

Is the nose of your new starter aluminium (lighter type) or cast iron (heavier type)
they made bolts bigger for the heavier type starters as there were cases of breaking the bellhousing (you don't want to go there!)
There were even special brackets on the engine mount to hold the back of the starter on some earlier big heavy starter motors.

oil light going out as you crank the engine is good....means your pressure has built up....when it starts just watch the fuel gauge, on a cold engine it should stay in the middle range or above.

also note how the shoulder bolt goes in from the front and the others from the rear.
starter motor.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #32
sounds like you found the starter running on problem.

as long as the bolt pokes out through the nut when it is all tightened down, I'd say it is OK.
If the threads don't, I'd be wary. Try thinner washers.

Is the nose of your new starter aluminium (lighter type) or cast iron (heavier type)
they made bolts bigger for the heavier type starters as there were cases of breaking the bellhousing (you don't want to go there!)
There were even special brackets on the engine mount to hold the back of the starter on some earlier big heavy starter motors.

oil light going out as you crank the engine is good....means your pressure has built up....when it starts just watch the fuel gauge, on a cold engine it should stay in the middle range or above.

also note how the shoulder bolt goes in from the front and the others from the rear.
View attachment 936574
Dom sorry for the delay in coming back to you. Been busy on a house renovation project.....

It looks like the lighter SM and all is good with turning her over and I do have spark at the plugs. I will need to remove the SM again to put the middle bolt back in correctly.

Just carried out a compression test which wasn’t excellent but all within 10%.... low 100 high 105, dry. I’m now going to proceed with final connections and add fuel. Fingers crossed she will start first time.

Once I’m content she’s running I will preform the test again and see how she runs for now....maybe a full rebuild later if required. As always thanks to you and all those who offer advice for your help. Neil


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Did you do the compression test with the engine hot, and with the throttle wide open ?
If you didn't, you'd be surprised at the difference.
 

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Thanks for feedback!
If the shoulder bolt went in easy it’s probably fine to leave it as you got it. Main thing it’s in the right hole and tight and the starter is making no odd noises.
You gonna do the relay thing?
It’s good preventative medicine.
And yes compression test needs to be hot engine, remove all plugs and hold gas pedal to the floor.
Then do a second test this time by squirtimg some oil in the cylinders ( a wet test)
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Already ordered the parts for the relay but not arrived yet but I did pre wire as per your instructions so easy fit when I get it.

Once she’s. Running I’ll do the test again. Hopefully a good improvement then.....

I’m sure I’ll be back in touch soon with other matters.. But I’ll let you know how I get on. Cheers for the help and stay safe. Neil


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