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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

My trusty 33 that does 30,000km a year and never stops (well the indicators might stop, but the engine just keeps on going), stopped dead on a 4 lane city road while I was in an outside lane.:wow:

I managed to get her over to the left lane which happened to be the exit lane for a major inner city bypass.:wow:

I jumped out and ran to a safe area and stood there waiting for my car to get totalled. Luckily the traffic response team turned up before someone rear ended the Alfa at speed. But I tell you what, my heart was in my mouth for a good 20-30minutes watching crazy drivers do stupid things.

I have the car home now and have started investigating and my 12 year old son mentions "Dad, should that be smoking?". Looking where he was pointing it would appear that the fuse attached to the main injector relay (Bosch 0 332 014 112) was melted all to hell. The car actually did start then as the fuse was melted so much the spade connectors fused together. It is a 15amp fuse but the relay it is mounted next to is a 30amp. Should this fuse be 15amp or 30?

Are they even related?

This is the relay and fuse. Melty.....

melty.gif

Cheers
Scott
 

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Scott,

is your son available for hire / other investigatory work.

I could really do with him nearby generally when I start work on my car. Perhaps he could do a livelink on his iPad over to my daughters iPad which I could balance on the roof of the car or on the wall near by??

Let me know...... :D

Edward.
 

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Hi,

The fuse should be a 15A one, it belongs to the fuel pump relay (with 30A current switching capability).
This fuse protects the fuel pump and the oxygen sensor's heating supply.
Probably the fuse socket terminals got loose during the years, caused overheating and circuit
interruption. The fuse and the socket should be replaced for the reliable operation.
 

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Hi Edward,

The oxygen sensor is located in the exhaust pipe, near the catalytic converter (in the upstream),
not related to the MAF.
The oxygen sensor used in the 33 models has (active) electronic heating, and requires (current) supply,
in order to reach the operating temperature more quickly, and maintain the minimum sensor operating temperature at idle speed (the first oxygen sensors were heated by the exhaust gases only, which
was ineffective at idle, and the warmup time was too long, but these weren't used in the 33s).
The heating current is self adjusting, it is higher when the sensor is cooler, and gets lower when the
sensor is hot enough.
 

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Oh, that one. Of course silly me. My car doesn't have one as it is a non cat car, so that is what confused me a bit! :confused:

Would you know what the item is that is the coil of wire in the small metal cage that sits up near the battery? What is it function and how does it interact with what it is connected to.......?
 

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Mmmm....
From the description it seems it is a high power shunt resistor.
I have to admit, I've only see this unit on photos, this external resistor pack
can't be found on LHD models (as far as I know).
Usually the shunt for the blower motor is located in the fan airflow (this is the situation
on the LHD models), in order to prevent overheating / melting.
Of course it could be the blower shunt, but I can't confirm without seeing the actual wiring.
 
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