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Discussion Starter #1
I'm still not much further down the track in fixing the 147. Quick review...wont select any gear...car is in neutral but reads 1st or briefly 2nd when using gear lever...sensors and solenoids seem ok...have a donor unit that I've been usinf to swap them in and out of. Still to try EV2 EV3 and EV4 but FES tests has them clicking away ok. I'm getting quite despondent now because I have been pretty methodical but have had no change in the status. Once I've checked all I can with the actuator in place...does anyone have any advice about where to next. I'm beginning to think the problem might be mechanical but I was able to drive the car to the mechanics in 1st and 2nd gear when the problem initially began so I'm even doubtful about that. I'll copy the FES parameters I have into this thread and hopefully someone can feed back to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
FES Parameters results
Sorry for the long list...I couldn't get the screenshot pasted on here

Number of rewrites 0
Gear/engage position 14.440mm
Selection position 17.325mm
Clutch pressure plate travel 18.354mm
Clutch pressure plate reference6.216mm
Accelerator position 0%
Hydraulic circuit pressure 52.115 bar
Coolant temperature 24.0 degC
Battery voltage 12.1111 V
Engine speed 0 rpm
Clutch RPM 0 rpm
Vehicle speed 0 km/h
Odd number gears current 530 mA (when attempting)
Even number gears current 530 mA (when attempting)
Clutch solenoid valve current 1505 mA (when attempting)
Actual torque 147 Nm
Calculated engine torque 147 Nm
A/T selector lever position No request
Gear engaged 1 (it is actually in neutral)
Desired gear 1
Automatic transmission OFF
Drivers door Open
Brake pedal position Released
Ignition key ON
Pump relay control OFF (ON when pump is going)
Engine startup Not allowed
Acoustic signal Off
High gear selection Not active
Low gear selection Not active
Load relay ON
Starter circuit Not requested
Clutch engage position(SA) 18.354mm (SA = self-adjusted)
PIS closed position (SA) 12.138mm
Solenoid valve current at
Zero flow 998.4 mA
Gearbox oil temperature 15.8 degC
Clutch temperature 44 degC (don’t know how…car not running)
Neutral engaged counter 4073
First gear engaged counter 326
Second gear engaged counter 278
Third gear engaged counter 86
Fourth gear engaged counter 0
Fifth gear engaged counter 0
Reverse gear engaged counter 1
Pump ON counter 320
System ON time 505 min
Clutch overtemp time 0 min
Missed selection counter 0
Clutch RPM too high counter 0
Missed gearshift counter 255
Clutch insufficient release
counter 0
Clutch engaging problem
counter 0
Not disengaging counter 0
Selection in excess temp 0
Missed shift counter 1st 0
Missed shift counter 2nd 0
Missed shift counter 3rd 0
Missed shift counter 4th 0
Missed shift counter 5th 0
Missed shift counter Reverse 0
Lever request fault counter
Insufficient hydraulic
pressure counter
Gearbox self calibration Correct
Distance covered in Neutral 0km
Distance covered in1st 0km
Distance covered in 2nd 18km
Distance covered in 3rd 0km
Distance covered in 4th 0km
Distance covered in 5th 0km
Distance covered in reverse okm
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It had a P1746 Pressure Control Solenoid "A" Open Circuit and 1748 EPC malfunction but they were stored faults and are no longer present. I can't see which reading is the one where the clutch rod length should read 28mm - none of them are anywhere near that which is why I'm dtarting to wonder about mechanical issue in the clutch assembly itself??? Cheers for the response
 

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FES Parameters results
Clutch pressure plate travel 18.354mm
Clutch pressure plate reference6.216mm
Those are the 2 figures which would interest me, I've consulted the guru about your issue and he's simply just said to ensure that the fluid level is correct, the top figure is reading 28 - 28.5mm with the ignition at MAR, Engine OFF, then run the "base setting" then "calibration routines. But he suspects that your screenshot was taken withthe engine running and that when you check the readngs it is going o say that the clutch pressure plate travel will be close to 30mm at the moment.

Though if that last statement rings true then it wouldbe worth boroscoping the clutch release bearing and pressure plate to see if it's wearing out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys...
Quote...But he suspects that your screenshot was taken withthe engine running... I can't start the car because I can't get the display to "N" - It is in neutral but the display doesn't agree! I'd like to do a John Cleese and give it a damn good thrashing!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I dare not get my hopes up but I have to ask...I've taken the actuator off - I was expecting a hard time getting the pinch bolt undone but it was not even finger tight. Could that have a bearing on not being able to select any gears. I'm thinking the bolt does actually go into the selector shaft so there must have been some ability to move it???
This is what I know...
1.I can observe the clutch selector rod moving the clutch arm when a mate tries to select a gear
2.The solenoids seem ok - I can hear them clicking etc when running the tests on FES
3.The car has done 150000km
4.I can select gears manually with a spanner carefully on the selector shaft

This is what I don't know...
1.Whether the clutch is working (even though arm is moving)
2.I don't know for certain that the sensors are OK (ohms readings were about right)
I don't know whether to open the actuator up and check for bits of metal or whatever floating around in there.

What do you think??
 
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If the pinch bolt was loose then you found the problem.

the sensors should read 0'k to 2.5k

be careful not to fiddle too much or the linkages of the rear sensor will come undone, PITA to get right again.

When fitting the actuator there is a special tool to keep the 'eye' in one location, you can use a midium length 1/2" extenstion to acheive the same thing.

NOTE before you re-fit verify that the sensors are still working, from MIN to MAX
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Lacken, that's pretty good news - it certainly is the first real indication of an actual issue that I have found. I'll clean things up a bit and put it back together and see where we get to from there then I will keep you posted - it has been quite helpful having a donor unit I can play with, but not as helpful as you guys on this forum. Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
God is good to me :) Thanks everyone for your help. New pinchbolt and an end of service calibration and things seem to be working ok - just got to put all the stuff back on the car and go for a test drive now :thumbs:

UPDATING...Car drove well and all systems are fine. Key piece of advice...when selespeed playing up is to check everything before deciding it is an actuator problem. I know I will need to put in a clutch kit before long but not daunted by that. Thanks once again
 
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