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Very easy. I pushed seat back and undid two allen bolts- one each side, then pushed chair forwars and did the same at the back, then tipped seat back towards the rear and disconnected the wiring connectors. No I didn;t disconnect the battery and never have in the past and not once has an airbag gone off.......:disappointed:
Did it not throw an airbag light up on the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
No, because I only did it with the car ignition off, and refitted the seats immediately. That was the reason I removed the back seat for transportation instead of the front- if you start the car with the seat missing, the airbag light will come on... I found a very useful thread for interior swapping, hang on, I'll find it..
 

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I may have to scratch an itch before long. I’ve always had a thing for cognac leather or the tan that’s in a Ferrari California. Maybe when I need a new car feeling, I might buy an interior and have it reupholstered.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well... a couple of months after doing all this, I'd moved to Wales. I went back home to move the Chrysler as it hadn't sold (300c CRD) and fell in love with it again... so I parked up the Alfa at my new house and drove the Chrysler. Well, that has just got unreliable and beyond my spanner ability, or effort if truth be told, to fix it. So it's going. Luckily, the Alfa was still there. After 18 months lay up, I connected the battery and it fired up imediately. Cleaned it up, fitted 4 new tyres (Nexen All Season N'Blue) and hammered it around the block a few hundred times, slamming the brakes on, to clean up the discs. Weird thing was that I'd bought a front and trear SKF wheel bearing as one was definitely shot last time I drove it, but no noise now. Took it for the MOT and it flew through with just an advisory on the rear disc rust, He said he'd guessed it had laid up a long time but was amazed it was 18 months. Rear shocks look a bit rusty so that will be done soon, as well as full underseal and rust treatment. But even he couldn't find a knurdled bearing. So maybe it was the nasty tyres that were on it? Still need to get the body computer swapped but Autolusso's guy is off on holiday Monday til January 2nd so I'll disconnect the battery each night for now. Also ordered a new bonnet which is on it's way as a couple of days after splitting with my wife the paint mysteriously all starts flaking off on the bonnet and wings with evident primary scatter and secondary pooling. Hmm, coincidence I'm sure. *****. So tonight I transferred my 10" android touch screen stereo across whcih wasn't as straightforward as hoped but all running sweet now. Big thanks to 57 Tyres in Newport for fitting my supplied tyres as usual and paying extra attention to jacking it properly without damage.

Ah, if only everything in life was as reliable as an Alfa Romeo..?
 

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What news regarding the wiring for the heated seats, did you find a connector tucked away?

Pub
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yes, and they just plugged in and worked! Took it back home down to Boringmouth for the weekend and it performed well. Was a bit rough going over The Bridge, with vibes on the gear knob and phone mount, but by the time I'd reached Bath it was fine. My leg and back was sore last night as I'd forgotten what my left leg did in a manual car, but fine today coming home. Tyres were faultless in the rain, though wasn't that cold tbh, but I think they'll prove themselves over winter and I'll report back. Got these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333431329863?ViewItem=&item=333431329863
4 x NEW 225/40/18 92V XL NEXEN NBlue 4 SEASON Tyres for £268 delivered. Very pleased with them so far. Battery survived overnight and I remember now that it was if I didn't use it the next day it would flatten so should be fine as long as I drive it each day, which I normally do. The stereo wa sa pain. There was an old Xtrons unit and it was wired up with the Camtech amp RCA lead unit and the Connects2 unit. I'd hoped it was the 3.2, but sadly it's the STK444. Got it working with a little soldering but the right hand steering controls don't work and if I try then the volume cdjusts the volume then changes track. But I can mute and do volume wich is all I need tbh. The rest is within reach easy enough.
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Discussion Starter #28
....and today I found a screw in one of the rear tyres and it's leaking air as gone right through. Damn. I got a strange feeling that Nexen have a penetration guarantee for x miles. I'll check.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Bit of an update. First, the stereo in the above pics is the old one new one thus:

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I unplugged the RCA adaptor and used the standard speaker out plugged into the ISO adaptor and the Bose is working. It wasn't loud enough before, but now it is. My stereo has a setting to reduce the output through the aspeakers to allow for built in amps and I've got it about medium, but need to turn the power up a notch when I can be bothered.


Secondly, those tyres are ace so far. Done nearly three thousand miles at least by now and they're great. Got a puncture in the rear on the first weekend after 564 miles and my tyre bar (57 Tyres, Newport) fixed it for a tenner.

Third- Had the tank strp corrode through and fall off so Autolusso Borningmouth fit me in the next day on Saturday as I was back home that weekend down there to replace them with ally straps (for a nice £60, thanks guys!) and di the Saturday Surgery on it. Found heaps of rust. It's like it was parked in the sea. All subframes and brackets are rusty and all bolts too. Body not too bad thankfully, but still needs treating. Shocks badly rusted and upper and lower wishbones need changing up front. They couldn't fault the wheel bearing either which is doubly odd. Usual weepy oil cooler but ok for now. Spoke to Laurence today and I'm going to source all the TRW arms and some Koni STR.T shocks and H&R springs from Larkspeed as seems the best value for money upgrade and cheaper than standard, and get them to fit the lot in a day. Might grab a rear ARB while I'm at it as I've been recommended upgrading that as Clover 170 has an upgraded front anyway.

Going Forth- So a week after that, I notice the wheel bearing nose has finally returned! I suspect a nasty pothole reminded it of it's duty to fail. Did the usual steering test and it showed the left turn made it louder suggesting the right was knurded. So next day I got the front up in the air to do a service (first time so took 2.5 hrs and lots of rust in the eye later...) and checked the beqrings. Oddly enough, the right felt fine but left had definite play! Typical... The turnign test is right 90% of the time- and mone was the 10%, but nearside is most common anyway. But couldn't get any garage today to answer the phone (as it was my only day off this week and I've got 1000 miles to do by Monday) apart form Halfords who wouldn't fit MY SKF bearing, but Manic Mechanics of Newport said no problem and got it booked the following morning (today, New Year's Eve). Well, the ABS sensor wouldn;t budge and they couldn't get a replacement til Monday but I pleaded and in the end the Mech unplugged the wire in the engine bay and could thus remove the hub with the sensor in place saving the day! Test drive later and all is well. Bearing quiet, no ABS light, brakes fine. Evidentally, as soon as the hub nut was undone the hub bearing fell apart all over the floor. So it was proper knurdled... Damn good job I got it done then!

So just shows that these bearings can be proper fooked and show no symptoms and noise test can be the other way around.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yarp. 10".... Tell you what though, it's bloody brilliant! My autistic 5yr old likes car jobs when he gets in and was in charge of gears in the Chrysler, but that was an auto so he's been wanting a job in the Alfa. His new job is to now turn the fan up as it always starts on 1 bar when I need 4 to demist quickly, and the rear heated window, then select the music and turn the brightness down if it's night time. He can drive the Chrysler too, but I have to do the pedals... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Update time, as this has become 'My Car Thread'.

The Nexen tyres have proved excellent on the icy roads so far. In fact, they seem grippier when it's cold so they must have a bit more 'winter compound' than I thought. So far I have no hesitation in recommending them. Even Loz at Autlousso was impressed when he had it for a night.

Speaking of which, they fitted my Koni Sport shocks and rear Eibach antiroll bar (huge thanks to Dan at Autolusso Norf for them!) along with TRW upper and lower wishbones, front ARB polybushes and drop links, all 4 top mounts and the hinge on a broken door handle which failed a couple of days before, the other followed a few days later, but hey ho. It's got to go back soon to get the lowered Eibach springs up front fitted as the standard -20mm Sports springs do indeed raise the front compared to the front, as we all suspected. No biggy as it's got to have full underseal treatment and the cambelt/waterpump/EGR&swirlflap delete/remap done anyway. And the other door handle... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Also confirmed that my 58 plate GT Cloverleaf 170 DOES have the GTA ARBs fitted front and rear. I'll clean up and list the rear 17mm GTA ARB that was removed for sale at some point.

So massive thanks to Dan oop Norf for the bits, and Loz and the lads darn sarf for making it happen. Always a pleasure guys.

So, next day our good friend Typos1 did my door panel insert swap. The job took about 8hrs but a lot of that is the endless nattering between us. I swear we were seperated at birth and he even would have been a regular in my pub when I were a lad. Small world... Anyway, the job is relatively simple once the panels are off. Fronts are conventional, rears need rear seat bottoms removed- 3 bolts. Then the screws are accessible once the seat back is moved about. There is a third torx bolt at the bottom behind the lower corner of the rear side bolster but it's easy enough to get out. Remove the lower seatbelt slidey bar bracket thing too and out it all pops.

Once the cards are off, you can see the spot weld type bits between the insert and the main panel. Just lever and crack these with a plastic trim tool (like a crow bar) and then cut off the glue/weld where the insert clips in. This is actually a lot easier than it sounds! The biggest issue is a big round metal washer clip that hols the door handle in place. This is best destroyed by cutting as if you try and pull it off it knurdles the plastic. It's out of sight so not a problem but it's quicker to snip it off. I didn't replace the washer. Then we used a wiggly line of glue and big blobs on contact points to refit the other insert. I used the Evostik Grips Like **** Turbo as it is flexible, heat resistant and has a 15 minute cure time. I held each panel for 20 mins+ just to be safe as it was freezing while Typos made tea. Refit is of the Haynes Book of Lies formula and easy enough. While the door opening handle surround is off, I reached in and put a regular washer over the door handle where that grip washer was, and secured it with a cable tie. So after a week of use I can say there have been no rattles and the panels are fixed solid! And it looks sooooo much nicer! I'm liking the contrast of the black centre arm rest so will probably keep it but when I'm bored one day I'll swap the tan in and see.

So yet more massive thanks to Typos1 for his help in this job! And to say that it's simple enough to do if anyone wants to change their inserts over.

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Discussion Starter #33
Oh, forgot to say that the car drives AMAZING now. Just perfect over high speed dips and bumps on the motorway with perfect control, and a lot softer going over bumps and potholes etc while still being controlled and not rolling in the bends. Very impressed...
 

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Update time, as this has become 'My Car Thread'.

The Nexen tyres have proved excellent on the icy roads so far. In fact, they seem grippier when it's cold so they must have a bit more 'winter compound' than I thought. So far I have no hesitation in recommending them. Even Loz at Autlousso was impressed when he had it for a night.

Speaking of which, they fitted my Koni Sport shocks and rear Eibach antiroll bar (huge thanks to Dan at Autolusso Norf for them!) along with TRW upper and lower wishbones, front ARB polybushes and drop links, all 4 top mounts and the hinge on a broken door handle which failed a couple of days before, the other followed a few days later, but hey ho. It's got to go back soon to get the lowered Eibach springs up front fitted as the standard -20mm Sports springs do indeed raise the front compared to the front, as we all suspected. No biggy as it's got to have full underseal treatment and the cambelt/waterpump/EGR&swirlflap delete/remap done anyway. And the other door handle... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Also confirmed that my 58 plate GT Cloverleaf 170 DOES have the GTA ARBs fitted front and rear. I'll clean up and list the rear 17mm GTA ARB that was removed for sale at some point.

So massive thanks to Dan oop Norf for the bits, and Loz and the lads darn sarf for making it happen. Always a pleasure guys.

So, next day our good friend Typos1 did my door panel insert swap. The job took about 8hrs but a lot of that is the endless nattering between us. I swear we were seperated at birth and he even would have been a regular in my pub when I were a lad. Small world... Anyway, the job is relatively simple once the panels are off. Fronts are conventional, rears need rear seat bottoms removed- 3 bolts. Then the screws are accessible once the seat back is moved about. There is a third torx bolt at the bottom behind the lower corner of the rear side bolster but it's easy enough to get out. Remove the lower seatbelt slidey bar bracket thing too and out it all pops.

Once the cards are off, you can see the spot weld type bits between the insert and the main panel. Just lever and crack these with a plastic trim tool (like a crow bar) and then cut off the glue/weld where the insert clips in. This is actually a lot easier than it sounds! The biggest issue is a big round metal washer clip that hols the door handle in place. This is best destroyed by cutting as if you try and pull it off it knurdles the plastic. It's out of sight so not a problem but it's quicker to snip it off. I didn't replace the washer. Then we used a wiggly line of glue and big blobs on contact points to refit the other insert. I used the Evostik Grips Like **** Turbo as it is flexible, heat resistant and has a 15 minute cure time. I held each panel for 20 mins+ just to be safe as it was freezing while Typos made tea. Refit is of the Haynes Book of Lies formula and easy enough. While the door opening handle surround is off, I reached in and put a regular washer over the door handle where that grip washer was, and secured it with a cable tie. So after a week of use I can say there have been no rattles and the panels are fixed solid! And it looks sooooo much nicer! I'm liking the contrast of the black centre arm rest so will probably keep it but when I'm bored one day I'll swap the tan in and see.

So yet more massive thanks to Typos1 for his help in this job! And to say that it's simple enough to do if anyone wants to change their inserts over.
I wouldnt bother with the underseal - it actually causes rust, basically over time it dries out, cracks, water gets into the cracks and is held against he bodywork eventually leading to rust. Youre much better off spraying it with something like stonechip, theres a reason why they started leaving it off from the factory, they werent being slack, loads of older 156s, 147s and GTs about with rusty floorpans and cracked old undserseal.

But if you raise the front your car will be dragging its a*se on the ground like mine, wouldnt it be better to raise the rear a little ?

My 08 has a 22mm front bar, some one elses does too, strange, think Dan said it was random which Cloverleafs had them.

How very dare you, it was you who did all the talkin, I only said a couple of words all day ! 😇 Glad you like it, still think it looks odd with the black armrest, each to their own though. :)
 

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Wow, I remember the day you came by to pick up the seats from my place. That car is looking really great. Nice work mate!
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hi mate! How's it going? Hope the GT is doing well too. Really appreciate the interior as it has soooo improved the car on a day to day basis.


So t'other day I used GummiPledge on my window seals. Great job, they swelled up slightly as it says on the bottle, but the inner lip seal at the top of the window also swelled, possibly too much, as the window now catches every time the door is shut and it's like the glass doesn't drop enough all of the time. Do a window reset and it's fine for a couple of days. Guessing it's possible that the window ECU could be mullered too..?
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Yaeh, not when we were playing with it, I mean just mullered in general. It's always been a bit iffy IIRC needing resets every now and then and one touch functions sometimes not working.
 

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Ah, I see. I changed my door handles at the weekend, the GT locks went all funny, thought they were broken, couldnt get the drivers door to lock properly then suddenly it worked after locking and unlocking a few times, I think changing the handles and the position of the locks confused the ECUs !
 

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Hi mate! How's it going? Hope the GT is doing well too. Really appreciate the interior as it has soooo improved the car on a day to day basis.


So t'other day I used GummiPledge on my window seals. Great job, they swelled up slightly as it says on the bottle, but the inner lip seal at the top of the window also swelled, possibly too much, as the window now catches every time the door is shut and it's like the glass doesn't drop enough all of the time. Do a window reset and it's fine for a couple of days. Guessing it's possible that the window ECU could be mullered too..?
Yeah mine is doing well. Had some paintwork done over the summer and it came out really well. Sadly I have the window thing too. I think it's those lame micro switches. I sprayed come contact cleaner in there and manually moved them up and down and it all worked really well for awhile. Back to the say yours are. I'm thinking at some point of just replacing the locks. Same thing on my boot. The light won't come on due to those stupid switches. Found a cheap spare on the bay and and am going to try replacing that soon and see how it goes.
 
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