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Discussion Starter #1
I can't get a par of camlocks to fit when engine is at TDC. Inlet one is nearly on but only fits after I'm off TDC and then exhaust camlock is way off. The engine no on the body plate is AR321.04 but i''ve tried 2 camlock kits an AST and a variable Sealey Alfisti one with multiple setting plates and I'm getting nowhere despite them being approved for that engine code. In the AST one the previous owner who was mechanic, had erased in the instructions the reference it could be used for my engine no. I'm at a loss to know how to sort this would be grateful for advice.
 

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Sorry, but as far as know the cam lock tools for the Alfa 1,6 TS is different from Alfa 1,8 and 2,0 TS (and the tools for the Alfa 2,0 JTS are not the same as the other three).
So first of all are you certain you have the right tools ?

Alfa Romeo 156 Cam Lock Tool
 

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For the 1.6, same engine code, I used Sealey ones (can't remember the colour as I have 1.6, 1.8 & 2.0 and JTS ones) and they worked ok. (I think they are purple)
Anyway, are they being fitted as per picture? (here; The cam variator )

If it is not that far out, it is possible belt stretch or slightly careless fitting has the exhaust camshaft out of position.. I often find I must slacken the exhaust cam pulley to allow for better setting when fitting a new belt.

You may find that posting a picture of how far it is out will provide you with experienced opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi thanks for the replies. I've attached 2 sets of photos. The first set with the silver camlocks show the inlet camshaft lock is nearly parallel with the cam lobe but that the exhaust camlobe is not fitting properly this is also shown by the fact that the lock is lush with the head. The second set of photos show another set of camlocks that come from Sealey's Alfisti Setting Plate System. As you can see this shows a much bigger discrepancy on both the inlet and outlet camlocks.
I got the car very cheaply and the engine appeared to be running ok when it came to me although I never drove it. The auxiliary belt was in a very bad way and tensioner on it completely perished with the belt reduced to about 1/3 of its normal width. This gave me concerns about the cambelt as I thought that too might be about to go. However, on taking the cover off the belt etc was intact and after getting the crankshaft pulley off there was a tippex mark on the edge of the crankshaft which maybe suggested it had been fitted by a non alfa specialist. That said as I say apart from the screeching from the state of the auxiliary belt the engine was alright.
 

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The amount the timing is out is not exceptional. I'd just fit with the normal cam locks (I don't really like the idea of the plates but I'm sure they work well).

There is evidence of varnish and oil carbonisation though (but not the worst). Be aware that is exactly how oilway diameter and oil flow reduces though.

If the auxiliary belt could screech, ensure the tensioner spring is in good order and will return it fully to its travel stop (when the belt is removed- use a spanner to see if you can manually push it back to less tension which means it is defective).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The amount the timing is out is not exceptional. I'd just fit with the normal cam locks (I don't really like the idea of the plates but I'm sure they work well).

There is evidence of varnish and oil carbonisation though (but not the worst). Be aware that is exactly how oilway diameter and oil flow reduces though.

If the auxiliary belt could screech, ensure the tensioner spring is in good order and will return it fully to its travel stop (when the belt is removed- use a spanner to see if you can manually push it back to less tension which means it is defective).
Thanks yes I'll do that. I'm replacing the tensioner with a good secondhand one as the other one was seized and worn down to the metal. What's the cheapest and easiest way to decoke all those deposits in the engine?
 

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So long as crank is definitely at TDC just rotate cams so they are timed and locked,timing has moved slightly or previously has not been set up quite right with locks or crank wasn’t exactly at TDC.
 

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Don't be too concerned the innards of the engine aren't shiny clean as they once were. Obviously it would be better if they were but beyond a scraper and wire brush, a high detergent flushing oil at oil change time is a good idea. That and getting some Shell Helix Ultra engine oil seems to be possibly the best stuff to keep the innards clean. Buy at ECP only when on offer or by some other method which will keep the 5 litres to less than £30.
 

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With the crank definitely set at TDC, using a dial gauge set the cams using the machined locks as johnnyroper says. To get the teeth on the belt to line up with those on the camshaft pulleys you may have to undo the four bolts on the inlet and the large one on the exhaust; be careful with that on the exhaust as the position sensor is behind the pulley and can be damaged. The holding tools such as those from Totally Alfa will help with keeping the pulleys in place when doing up the bolts.
The varnish on the innards isn't that much of a problem but those carbon deposits need careful removal, as Fruity says it could lead to blocked oil ways. Don't rely on a high detergent oil doing that as it might just loosen a large chunk that would then cause problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks very much that is most helpful. How should I get the carbon deposits off - perhaps with a soft toothbrush or similar dipped in a solvent?
 

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