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Discussion Starter #1
That there Tarquini has been eating up the n/side front tyre ever since I had it. I get really bad wear on the inner shoulder.

The inner shoulder seems to wear out about twice as fast as the rest of the tyre .. Usually it gets down to "bald" while there's 3 or 4mm all the way across the rest of the tyre (though the wear shows up as a "step" in the tyre tread, not straight but angled wear.. :eek:

I had a 4-wheel tracking done ages ago and it turns out the camber on that wheel is 1 (or 10?) degrees. (Or 1 degree "out".. ) I had a printout but I can't find it now.

The other cambers and trackings are more or less straight and the other tyres wear pretty evenly (for an old warhorse).

Camber, as I understand it, is not adjustable on the '55. It was almost certainly knocked "out" following a Saab 93-to-Tarquini interface incident many moons ago (hit the nearside front).

So.. what's still bent that can affect camber? I can only think it's the front subframe as the other rods and pieces seem to be either adjustable or bolted to the sub-frame. It'd be nice to sort this..

Ralf S.
 
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Only things I can think of that could effect camber....

Subframe, Topmount bearing, wishbone, sturt tower or hub/sturt

though strange that it is a step change like you say... Is camber not usually likely to cause extra wear that is even as it goes across tire from most worn edge to the least worn edge?

You sure the tyre isn't rubbing on somthing on full lock? They can easilly catch on full lock with arch liner or somthing in arch (esspecially if it's a slow rack with spacers - it's probs the reason why fast rack had slightly reduced turning circle). Any defo think it's worth checking that it isn't rubbing as when I see a step change in wear it seems most likely to be rubbing.

John
 

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When Tarq got wacked has it damaged the strut tower or front chassis rail as that could pull it over. Can you put a pic up of the tyre wear. You'd probably be able to see 10 degrees if you looked wheel from the front so if you 1 sounds more reasonable. (clutching at straws!! Bottom of the spring sits closish to the top of the tyre on a shoulder. Is it damaged as that could be flexing and rubbing on the tyre although I would imagine you'd hear it and the strut would have failed by now and MOT would have mentioned.)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As far as I can tell (from my various dismantlings over the last couple of years) the beast took a bite out of a Saab 9-3 using his nearside front corner.

The damage seems to have been severe enough to bend the front chassis leg (the big metal extrusion that arcs over the gearbox) as I did have some flaking opaint/corrosion on it, showing that it may have been bent and then straightened again, at some point. There's were also missing and odd fasteners holding on the airbox, suggesting it had been shunted (snapped off mounting lugs etc)... and the intake trumpet was gone. I fixed/replaced all that odd stuff with original items now.. :)

The inner wing looks okay/original as does the shock turret. There is a hint of new paint there but no signs of welding/new panels... so I can't rule out some minor deformation happened.

The damper was the original Boge but last year (when the other side started leaking) I swapped both the front shocks, springs (OE part, for good measure) bump-stops, gaitors and the top mount plates and bearings. Basically everything between the wishbone arms and the inner wings is brand new. That made no difference to the camber on the nearside.

Wishbone arm and TRE have been changed since I had the beast and again, haven't made any difference.

There's no chance that the wheel is touching anything. The symptoms happen on my 205/40 x 17 and the original 205/50x15 tyres.

So... my thought is that either the inner wing/turret is in the wrong place (possible, given the nudge it had) or the wishbone mount is in the wrong place (subframe may have been bashed.. though difficult to tell, seeing as it's naturally rusty and seems to have been used to jack the car in the past.


Ralf S.
 

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ralaf, to fix this just remove the strut from the hub and elongate the top fixing hole through the strut... make it a horizontal sleeve and then you have adjustable camber....

you could do it to the other strut aswell and set the camber however you like it...

on the other hand, i have adjustable camber (in the same fashion) on my car, and it's lowered about 5 cm... yet the tyres wear evenly...

Make sure your tracking is set to neutral, do't forget tracking has to be checked everytime you undo a suspension or steering part, let alone change one...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That sounds interesting but complicated.. :D

Do you have a photo of what you mean? I'm thinking about taking the beast off the road to sort the suspension once and for all (having some rear sub-frame probs too) :)



Ralf s.
 
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Ah I see...

At bottom of Strut/shock there are holes where two bolts go through strut and hub (basically attaching the two together...

So you elongate (horizontally) the top holes at bottom of strut so you can loosen bolt adjust camber and tighten it up again.

Seems a nice idea as long as they stay put.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ah! That makes sense. Yes... I'd be worried the beast would move over time... but having said that, if some jolt is hitting the beast hard enough to shift a tightened up tight thing, then it's better that something is "giving" a bit... otherwise it's my alloys taking the entire shock. :eek:

Ralf S.
 

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I've got some 'cam bolts' on my Strat rep - they work pretty well. Got them from a place called 'Camskill' IIRC but you'll proably find some on e-bay as well. Various sizes available but the main thing you need to know is the size (diameter) of the bolt you are replacing.

My V6 had chronic tyre wear until I fitted poly bushes to the front wishies. Had previously tried new wishies, tracking, replaced TREs, etc etc. Other big issue is tyre pressure. I tend to run mine a bit higher than spec.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Good tips... :thumbs:

My beast is definitely "bent". The other wheels/tyres are fine and the tyre wear is way too weird to be tyre pressure related. The camber is measurably out on that corner and I get chronic shoulder wear, so it's all consistent with itself.

I may try the elongated bolt holes idea.. even if I get it halfway nearer "true" then it'll be a useful improvement.

Ralf S.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Aye! It'd make sense to slot the bottom hole if you wants to go negative... I was thinking I'd have to slot the top hole (to go positive).

Dunno why your tyre wear is good.. mine is shocking (at least on that 2" of inner shoulder.. the rest is alright).

I suppose once I have camber sorted out I'll have to look what it does to the wear and work out what else may be wonky. The beast does tramline a bit (205/40 tyres) but otherwise tracks straight. Maybe camber is out by more than 1 degree - I did say it might have been 10! :D


Ralf S.
 
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