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Discussion Starter #1
Due to a cambelt failure (54K 2003 GTA SW) I am slowly putting back together my engine and have a query.

The workshop guides are great if you locked the timing in a working position when you took it apart, however this is not the case and I am trying to set up the timing. Having spent a lot of time looking at bits my brain is not working!

The guides all say get to TDC on the powerstroke for cyl 1. I think that because the belt split I just have to set the cams correctly when I get TDC on cyl 1 as there is no powerstoke anymore. As it is a four stroke engine there is 720Deg to a cycle. Can the crank be 360 Deg out or am I just thinking about it too much!

Thanks for any help!
 
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You are correct wallaceis and thinking about it too much never did any harm... :)

Although there are 720 degrees to the complete cycle, the crank cannot be 360 degrees out when setting up because as you correctly say there is no power stroke any more. Once No1 piston is at TDC with the cams locked in place, all the rest must be correct and the belt can be fitted.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, always helps to have it confirmed by someone else. Got it back together now and running on 5 out of 6.:( No compression on cyl 2. Got to take it to bits again. Still feels like progress after not running since June.
 
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Had this on a 3.0 166 I rebuilt recently. Turned out the piston ring was broken. Taking the sump off in car is a major, major, pain in the arse!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mine has only been started and run for less than a min, however I started it yesterday and it sounded like it ran on 6 for a few seconds before dropping back to 5.:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Finally had time to start stripping it down. Not got the head off yet but examination of the plenum and inlets shows a load of crap being blown the wrong way out of the cylinder. I guess that means that cyl 2 has no compression due to a problem with the inlet valves. Next step is to get the head off.
 

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Did you not have the heads off when you rebuilt?
I had the same belt issue and rebuild. If you look down the inlet valve from above after taking the cams out (so all the valves are closed) and with the inlet trumpets off, you should be able to see the bent valves, you can pour pentrating oil down them and it will drain away if the valves are bent. It was a pain of a rebuild but if you need any help, email me and I will try to help if I can. ([email protected])

Mick
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This will be the first time I have had the head off. First time round I just refitted tensioner, idlers and cambelt so I could compression test and found only cyl 2 had no compression, all others good. I have just been told you have to take the engine out to get the rear head off. Does anyone know if this is necessary? I am working from the Elearn CD as my workshop manual and it suggests it can be done in situ.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the offers of help. I will be taking you both up when I get stuck! My first question is with the head off do I need the alfa liner retainer tools or is there a more DIY solution?
 
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No need to line Alfa's pockets.

Use small steel plate over the stud, tubular spacer on top of the plate long enough to reach the threaded part of the stud and the original nut on top of that. You'll want four of these, of course... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just had a look down the inlet and both valves are straight and retaining a small amount of penetrating oil.:confused: Is it possible the timing is out from my replacement of the belt, I used proper cam locks for the 3.2. Can 1 cam out of 4 be out and the engine still run??
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Arrgh, so close yet still I can't get the head off. I can't get the exhaust manifold back far enough to clear the studs. Is there a knack to it or do I need to unbolt the manifold from the exhaust as well? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, used the special persuasion tool set and the head is off. The exhaust valves on cyl 2 are bent so replacing those. Hoping this is the only damage.
 

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Sorry missed your reply wallaceis.

When you are rebuilding, take the studs out of the rear head for the exhaust manifold. It will help you get the manifold into place, and then refit the studs in situ.

Other than that I think it's all straight forward, just a few scuffs on the back of my left hand (I did the rebuild three months ago!)

Did you manage to get the crank pulley nut off ok?

normally very very tight.
 

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To hold the liners in place, I used sockets over the studs, and a peice of square tube from BandQ. drill to suit, nice and secure.

Do this before you turn the engine to tdc, as you dont want to have to change any lower seals.
 
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