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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys!!!
I was just told that I can adjust my cam chain by the bolt on the head/block...
Only question I have is: "How do I change tighten it??? Clockwise or anti-clockwise???"
:thumbs:thanks guys:thumbs:
 

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It is a spring loaded tensioner,the bolt just holds it locked in place after you set the tension.
The correct way to do it is with the engine switched off ,cam cover removed,cam timing set with the slack in the chain taken from the middle between the two cams and then releasing the tensioner letting it take the slack and tightening again.:)
Do Not listen to some people that say you can do it with the engine running at idle just by undoing the tensiner bolt,i used to repair a lot of engines in the eighties that people had attempted to do it this way.:(
 

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Following a driven after sprocket so at a guess clockwise? No in depth knowledge of Alfas, so maybe a real GTV enthusiast will be able to give you a correct answer?:):
 

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Frightening that isn't it, all the WSM's say the same, adjust it at idle. I did it once and it worked too.
Wouldn't do it again though:rolleyes:
 
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Dunno if its the same setup as the 8 valve 164 2 litre. All I used to do was back the nut off slightly, then push the car forward in gear a couple of feet (ignition off naturally:rolleyes:), and making sure it did not roll back, retighten the tensioner nut. That seemed to work OK, but i'd have thought it was madness to try it with the engine running. I used to do it once a year and the engine was always a wee bit quieter afterwards...or at least I told myself it was:lol::lol::lol:

AlfaLincs
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have a better idea..
:)
I'll take it to the Macy, he can show me, then afterwards I'll do it myself...
:D
 

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I generally adjust (engine not running) statically, then start engine, let it do a few revs, stop engine, then adjust again. Of course if the spring is weak or bust, you can adjust till the cows come home!
Best way of course is cam cover off method, as above, thaqt way you know it is done properly!:)

One often neglects the tensioner, I have even found the spring broken on my old 101. A weak spring and it will not do its job, it sort of bounces in and out, rather like valve bounce with weak springs. With every engine or head job, I would take the whole thing out (dont drop the bloody thing into the sump!), clean it, check it for a smooth and quiet operation (especially cog), grease the one end, fit new spring and put back in!

I haven't done my S4 yet (but she is very quiet)...does that inlet cam Variator make any difference to the process?....I wonder?
 

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Ah! the eccentricity of Jaguar DOHC XK top chain adjustment in the sixties. I remember it well, I Think? :confused: Now do the bottom chain without dropping the sump, he says.:D Sorry, boring old memories on your thread .:eek: :(:
 

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scrgdk, arm yourself with 2 x 10, 1 x 14, 1 x 17 spanners, optional copper compound. Engine off because you can bend valves at idle if chain slips.
Cam cover off with 17 and 10 spanner.
You now see your cams. At front of head, there is a 14 bolt. Loosen 1/8 of a turn (anti-clockwise) at a time. You will then hear a click (if your chain is loose) as the spring-loaded tensioner shoots out of sleeve in head and tightens chain. Stop loosening at this point. [If you go beyond this point, you run the very real risk of the tensioner wedge moving and then you'll have a hell of a job involving loosening the chain, grease (to hold the tensioner wedge in place), and applying pressure to a stubborn tensioner spring to get everything to locate properly while also making sure that you don't loose the tensioner wedge (yes, i got the t-shirt!)]
Then check that chain is tight and re-tighten with 14. Re-check chain tightness. I like to to clean the cam cover gasket and apply copper compound to reduce the chance of oil leakage.
Put cam cover back on with 17 and 10 spanners.
If you need help, you know where I am.
P.S. while your cam cover is off, you might as well check that your cam LC's are on 102 102 when the engine is at TDC.
 

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30 plus years ago after a head gasket change I restarted the engine with the tensioner bolt loose. The chain jumped and most of the valves were bent.
So the moral of this stupidity is NEVER start your engine whilst the tensioner is loose. However the handbook does say to tension the chain at tickover but IMO you need to be sure that the engine won't cough or hickup as this could cause the chain to jump. If static tensioning works then this must be the safest option.
 

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How often do you retension the chain?
I check mine once a year (max 5000 miles), and I always have a slip of 2-3 mm bwn. cam spokets. I check the valves ajustment at the same time.
Long time ago I did ajustment to a Giulietta Nouvo as described in the Manual, slaged the bolt turned on the engine for a few seconds (as I remenber), stopped engine and retighted bolt. No probs later.
Erik
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks a mill guys...
El :D guess where I am this week? :D
he he...
I need to do a service and was planning on doing it all at once, I'll call you in the week though... maybe one night I can do it at our place maybe??? wouldn't expect you to come all this way out to me...
Plus I'll bring a friend to "help" us...
 

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Cool. Will help you with the cam chain - won't have time for the rest of the service, though. My first 6 months are pretty, pretty full! Heavy lecture load and have to present a paper in Greece in July, plus some other research.
Still haven't got around to my own engine bay yet!
 
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