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Calling the tuners!

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Hi guys, will all the tuners please report to my thread here incase they can give me some info. thanks :)

and not the software junkies! haha im talking old skool NA tuners, need advise that require the experience of hand on spanner instead of hand on keyboard guys haha
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What do you want to do Benzina? Go big bore?

On you motor it is no magic.

There are a Holden 3.8 v6 with a blower and without a blower coming from the factory in Aussie, with the same engine block. We have to check if the Alfa heads bolt on or not. Compare head gaskets and engine stroke. Import a block complete or the pistons, conrods etc and with that you will have the right compression ratio, just fit a turbo or keep it NA depending on which parts you bring in.
 

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Benzina it is always the same plan. In your case you do not need to stop at 11:1 compression for 95 octane fuel. You can run 12/12.5 because of the direct injection.(Audi uses 12.3 in some engines and BMW 12.0)

A better set of cams is necessary if you keep standard valve sizes and the std cams are very "calm". I can not have an opinion on porting as I have not worked on these heads before, but the head I looked at, was the same design as the previous Alfas. My guess is std porting will be reasonable for a 3.2 engine, but larger engines may hold back a few horses due to the porting and it may help to get a knowledgeable person flow it.

The crank is very heavy and I will make the flywheel as light as possible, but be careful when you let people lighten the std flywheel, when cut in the wrong places, the cast iron flywheel can break. It is better to make a new steel one.

The std pistons are already heavy and the ones used in big bore kits more so. That together with the heavy crank, is the reason these engines don't rev freely. So when buying new pistons, you have to look at the weight. The lighter the pistons are, the higher you can push piston speed, but we know piston speed is the killer in engines. In my opinion, this is also the reason why Bussos with big bore kits don't last when you rev 7000 rpm. Naturally you need to balance the engine when you change to different weight pistons.

If money is not the object, throttle bodies will be great. I will run a 3.5/4 liter plenum with a Maserati flow meter in the tube supplying the air to the plenum, so that you can use the standard management with a Unichip.
 

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For a sprint on the strip a light flywheel do not work, you can not get off the mark properly. But on track and everywhere else it work. Every time you rev up through gears a flywheel is just a loss.

I can not remember what Hennie paid for the steel flywheel, but it was around half the cost of importing one. If I remember correctly, the steel flywheel was about 4kg lighter than the original on the TS.

A 4 cylinder engine is inherently in balance, so you just keep the components the same. But on a v6 it is not the case. Before the crank is balanced dynanically, weights are added to the journals and then it is balanced. The process is more involved. If you don't do it you may have trouble, I have seen oval main bearing caps on v6s.
 

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Roadrunner, they moved from Hermanstad to Sinoville, but I haven't been to them since. Maybe TN can help with their current location. Take it to them and let they sort it out, they have done this before.

Make it as light as possible, short of cutting holes in it. With high compression you will not notice the lack of smoothness below 1500 rpm.

The rubber in a dual mass flywheel does what the springs in a clutch plate does on a normal flywheel. That is why the clutch plates that is used with DMFs don't have springs. But it is a crap idea.
 

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You are on the right track Benzina, 1 kg on the outside is worth more than 3 kg on the inside.

You can cut the outside up to 1 mm from the threads.
You can cut 2 mm from the clutch surface and the location surface of the pressure plate. the distance from the one to the other must stay the same.
 
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