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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I am going to look at a 2000 GTV tomorrow with a view to buying it, whilst not in perfect condition the dealer has said it is a tidy car although the paint has dulled a bit and cosmetically it could do with a bit of TLC, mechanically and structurally it is supposed to be sound. However he said there was some slight bubbling below the rear windscreen, I know this is a problem area and can cause problems in the future. I was hoping someone might be able to tell how much of a potential problem this is and how much it might cost to rectify.
Also any other hints for a first time 105 buyer would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Tom
 

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Hi Tom.
There is quite a good buyers guide to the 105 Coupe written by Keith Booker and published by Veloce publishing, it's probably too late if you are looking this weekend but if you can lay your hands on one it would be usefull to take along with you.

Bubbling on that rear panel isn't good, but it's not necesserely a massive problem. it depends how far it's spread i suppose.

Just some points to look out for the old tin worm, not them all as you could go on for ever but;
Working front to back...

Front cross member behind the Valance, particularly where the antiroll bar mounts, also the area where the front caster arms mount into the inner wing.

Two small housings inside the engine bay one at each side where the top suspension arms fix, check where these are welded to the main cross member it's a catch for salt and muck and rots out. You cant' see the offside one it's under the carbs unfortunatly.

The main chassis rails as they run back from the Engine bay towards the cross member under the seats, and that cross member itself.

All four floor panels, lift the carpets check for damp and rust/holes, it's very common to patch them, but strictly speaking they should be replaced as panels. (Most are patched, but make sure they are solid).

The sills themselves are three piece, the outer is non structural the middle is hidden the inner you can see where it joins the floor, all you can really do is judge it all on the condition of what you can see.

the point where the trailing arms attach to the back of the floor, Keith booker states if these are rotten walk away, it seems a bit extreme to me, but it's certainly an expensive repair.

Rear wheel arches, particularly the inner areas again expensive to repair, the outers can be have repair panels let in so it's not as big a problem.

Boot floor, around the spare wheel well, in the well and also around the fuel tank.

these are the less obvious points, the main shell, roof, bonnet doors wings etc all need to be checked but it's the bits underneath which you are best looking hard at.

Don't worry too much about mechanical condition, they are pretty robust though like all old cars will need continuous attention, most of the bits are available and if you are handy with a spanner they aren't too hard to work on either.

Don't be frightened to poke it's underneath with a screw driver.:eek:

Good luck and let us know how you get on.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Mitch that is a great help.

the guy I spoke to said that it was only minor bubbling, I suppose I will just have to see, it is priced in the average condition sort of bracket so obviuosly it is not going to be perfect but I just wanted to get as best idea as I could of the more problematic and costly areas.

I know it was refurbished and owned by someone at Gran Turismo in the early nineties and it does have a new spare wheel well.

I have a 1969 beetle at them moment and am not afraid of getting my hands dirty, in fact i rebuilt the engine last summer, but obviously welding etc is a different stroy and not something I would be able to do!

Thanks for your help anyway

Tom
 
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