Alfa Romeo Forum banner

41 - 51 of 51 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Yes, all done now. As I was leaving Homebase last week having picked up a pressure washer, I spotted this electric drill press at the knock-down price of £29.67!!!

It's a bit agricultural, but it made light work of drilling holes through a piece of steel bar I had left over from a repair to the boot lock mount on my 166 a few months ago:

931303


Add some lengths of 15mm copper pipe and the liners are now clamped down:

931304


The alternator and starter motor are currently at the repair shop, and I'm due to collect the replacement heads on Monday.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
45,291 Posts
See that metal pipe running through the V, it has 2 x rubber O-rings at each end. I'd strongly recommend replacing them now while you have the heads out, as you'll likely never get an opportunity to do so as easy as this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
See that metal pipe running through the V, it has 2 x rubber O-rings at each end. I'd strongly recommend replacing them now while you have the heads out, as you'll likely never get an opportunity to do so as easy as this.
For sure - I've assumed these seals will be part of the head gasket set... as well as the seals where the head gaskets connect to the thermostat body - is that right?
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
45,291 Posts
For sure - I've assumed these seals will be part of the head gasket set... as well as the seals where the head gaskets connect to the thermostat body - is that right?
No they're not in the head gasket set. They're just O-rings though, nothing special about them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,293 Posts
What Dan is trying to say ( but is too polite to do so...) is:

1) You need to change all the pipe o rings, and the o rings on the thermostat casting.
2) If you go to a dealer and get them, they cost about eleven billion quid. Each.
3) He can supply a set for a LOT less.
4) I can confirm they fit, I put them on my 166 3.2!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Well, those old O-rings were as flat as pancakes and brittle as hell... now replaced with fresh new ones. Will be repeating with all the others too - once I've figured out all of the different sizes...

I even managed to resist the temptation to re-spray the transfer pipe itself... :)

My starter and alternator are back from being reconditioned - now just waiting for the heads to come back from the machine shop.

932024
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
572 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
A little Valentine's Day treat for the GTV... :)


932903


I haven't had time to do any further work given the weather so far this year, and the need to get a recently-acquired 147 fully roadworthy as a priority. Anyhow, I've now got the new heads back following pressure testing and resurfacing; plus both manifolds following stud extraction from the front pipe flanges.

It's half term next week so if the weather improves I can start bolting it all back together again...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
393 Posts
Back two cam locks sit on the lobes closest to the belt. Front bank inlet cam - lobe closest to gearbox, front bank exhaust cam - lobe closest to timing belt. Its just the front bank inlet which is the odd one out.

You can crack off the sprocket bolts and turn the cams one by one until they are all correctly positioned, at this point I'd just doublecheck the tension is OK, re-tension if necessary and then tighten the sprocket bolts again. The hardest bit will be freeing the sprockets from the tapers if the belt is going to be left on.

It's going to run a million times better with the cams timed properly, whoever did it before was clearly a bit of a nugget. I'm not sure how much faith I'd have in the belt, tensioner, idlers for the long term but if you're justing wanting to see if it can run better then there's no harm in retiming it with the belt left on for now.
 

Attachments

41 - 51 of 51 Posts
Top