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Discussion Starter #1
so the story goes like this, one of dads mates met this guy through his church who was getting relocated with the army, he also found out that he had a "boxer" that had broken a cam belt and another project car. we got the guys phone number and tried contacting him for about 2 weeks, we eventually got in contact with him and he told us he had a 16v 33 with a broken cam belt and an alfetta gtv2.0 as a project car. so that day me and dad went round to have a look and i was pretty much sold then and there. we went back with my neighbor the next day (as he has an alfetta gtv2.0) and we bought both of them. i got mine for 600 and he got the alfetta for 200 bucks i think. alfetta certainly needs to be put back together but it was pretty much all there, just in parts.
Theres some better pics in this thread http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-33-sud-and-sprint/310027-33-advice.html
harry
 

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Now the first thing i needed to do was get the car up on blocks and start removing enough stuff to drop the engine and get it out from under the car. As i dont have axle stands and am too cheap to buy some i just used the **** i found lying in the driveway:lol:. to give you an idea of height i used a bit of tree stump and a couple of bits of wood under one sides jacking point, and on the other side i used a ramp and a couple of bits of wood on top of that. So really it wasn't that high.

I then started stripping stuff off the motor. I decided i didn't want to remove the dizzy cause i really couldn't be bothered re-timing it once id finished. so anything that was below the height of the dizzy i left on. pretty much all i left on was the 2 throttle bodies, starter, dizzy, water pipes, and a load of random vent lines. I chased all the myriad of electrical connections here there and every were (there is far too many cables on this car). there quite easy to spot but there are a couple of hidden ones, namely the speedo plug that goes in the top of the gear box on the drivers side, and one other form of gear box sensor (gear position sensor possibly) that goes on the very back edge of the box.

I took the injector rail off also because it was getting in my way. i then wrapped the injectors in glad wrap and tied them up in the engine bay. This way i didn't have to unplug absolutely everything, the wiring looms all sorta just hang there in the engine bay quite nicely. another note is with the power steering pump i got away with just unbolting it from the block and leaving it hang, this way i didnt have to worry about power steering fluid and purging the system or anything like that. same goes for the clutch slave, i just undid the circlip and pulled the cylinder out the bell housing so i didnt have to bleed anything.

The other things that need disconnecting are the gear lever, you could probably leave it on in hindsight but i think its easier with it off. and also the front chassis rail and exhaust pipes.

once disconnected the motor was fairly easy to remove. i had a small trolley jack under the very front edge of the gear box (front row of bolts on the box sump) with a bit of wood between the box and jack. i also put 2 used tyres under each head just in case it all toppled side ways. I had dad in charge of the jack and i got under the car and supported the very rear tail of the gear box (were the gearstick attaches). this worked quite well as i could control any tilt quite easily. we hit problems when we were lowering the jack because it started hitting the jack. so we put a bottle jack under the front mount, blocked up the tail and removed the trolley jack. we then lowered it down onto the tyres and removed the blocks under the tail. with a bit of rope through the hoist points on the motor i was able to rock the motor while dad removed a tyre at a time until the sump was sitting on the plank of wood we had under the car at the start. we then grabbed a head each and slid the motor out. it slides really easy as it only sits on a small part of the sump and a casting lug on the rear end of the gearbox.
 

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Before stripping the head off try timing it up with a new belt and do a compression test. You maybe lucky, 1 in 20 don’t do any damage, when mine went it only just damaged 2 valves. There is a position where all the valves come to rest closed
 

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Discussion Starter #5
already stripped big al, that was gonna be my next post (even though i did it yesterday) youve ruined the suspense now :lol::lol::lol:. anyway yeah. 1 cylinder all 4 valves were bent the other cylinder the 2 exhausts were bent but only a little bit. so yeah went and bought parts today, 600 bucks worth of stuff so provided all is good when i put it back together ive got meself a 16v for 1200 bucks and then ill sell my series 2 and hopefully make a bit of money, cause i can tell you i have absolutely no money now. lol. ill do the proper write up with pictures later tonight
harry
 

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alright so the engine was dropped out the car not too much hassle and it was in to the fun stuff. First thing i did as i just couldn't resist was to pull the belt cover off, much less dramatic than i thought it was going to be. the belt had sorta wrapped around one of the wheels and stay in one piece, i didn't get a picture of this unfortunately but i might take a photo of the broken belt tomorrow.

Pulled the cam cover off and found out that the head bolts were some stupid Italian idea and required a tool that i didn't have. That delayed me for half a day but i was quite happy that when i pulled the cam cover off there was no damage. i had to go to my grandparents anyway the day i dropped the engine so i wouldn't have been able to do much else anyway. I headed down the local hardware while i was at grandads and bought a set of torx stuff only to get home and find they weren't torx at all and were infact a multi spline tool. so monday morning i called around every car shop and tool shop i could think of and no one A. knew what i was talking about and B. had any in the shop. so on a whim i went to the mechanics down the street to see if they could order one through the snap on tool guy, they said it would be about 50 bucks but before i left they went out the back and checked if they had one and vwa laa they did and just told me to bring it back in 10 minutes (i love living in a small town). so i ran home cracked the head bolts so i could undo them with my fingers and took the tool back. all this and i still didn't really know how i was getting the head back on, but when i bought it back they said i could borrow it again to reassemble.

Any way with the head bolts loosened i pulled out the hammer and block of wood and got to work smacking the head off. when it dropped off it all looked fairly reasonable but im pretty sure valves aren't meant to sit the way they were sitting. :cheese::cheese:

now i have a question for you all before i continue my story. when you pull the gear off the end of the cam shafts is there a woodruff key or something like that so they hold there position when you put them back of or do i need to scribe a mark so they go back the way they came off?

with that in mind ill continue my story. i loosened the rear of the belt cover and removed the cam carriers this is were i found out that the cams wont pull back through the hole in the cover with out removing either the oil seal or gear. originally not wanting to replace the oil seal or remove the gear i left them in the belt cover holes and tried to wiggle this off. i found that you cant do this unless you remove the idler wheel. grrrrrrrrrrrrr yet another thing to remove. anyway that wasnt that hard and then i removed the cam buckets and seen how deep in the head the valve springs were.

how the hell am i getting that out with our crappy Taiwanese valve spring compressor was my thought. so using my well inherited tight arseness when it comes to stuff like this and buying the suitable tools, i went digging in the shed. i came out with a bit of tube a suitable size to fit in the cam bucket holes. i drilled three holes on opposite sides of the tube quite near the bottom and used various files and bench grinders to fashion it into a slot (the dremmel kit for 50 bucks in bunnings on sunday looks like an amazing deal now. wish i had the money to spend). i then wrapped the end in a lot of gaffa tape to prevent it scratching the hole and away i went. the valves were a bit awkward to get at as the spring compressor wasn't liking sitting on the bent valves and kept trying to jump off. the collets were a fun game of "surgery down a tube" and to be honest i have no idea how im getting them back in, but once we had done with the first few the others came out reasonably well.

the heavily bent valves took a punch and hammer to encourage them out but other than about 3 i think i managed to push them all out by hand. i also put the valves in backwards and all the valve guides seem nice and tight so there's no need for new guides IMO.

after joking around last night about going and buying all the parts today i got awoken buy dad giving me his bank card and pin number and the wise message use what you need but you have to pay me back (as he knows i have no money at the moment LOL). so with that in mind i went on a mission. first step was the doctors to sort out a bruised shin bone from a trail bike crash 2 weeks ago, then to the only car shop i hadn't called yesterday to get some valve grinding paste and lapping suction cup on a stick things. On a whim i asked them if they had a 12 mm multi spline tool, the guy ran off for about 2 minutes and came back with one for $11.95 so i was pretty happy with that and it isn't even a Chinese one. next stop was "the spare place" in the city (they also do mail orders i believe) and as i had hoped he had everything in stock and he knew exactly what i was after. the only thing he didn't have was loose head gaskets. so a $203 at trade price gasket kit later i had my head gaskets and a whole lot more work to do, as now i figure I've bought gaskets and seals for both sides so why not pull the other head off and renew the gaskets while the motors out the car. i had not previously planned to touch that side.

i think that's all for now, today was an expensive day and now ive just gotta spend the time to clean stuff and put it all back together and hope she runs with no problems and no more expense.

so as a parts recap i bought, gasket kit 4 inlet valve 4 exhaust valves (6 were damaged so decided i should replace all of them) cam-belts and jockey wheels for both sides and that's it. 600 bucks and that was with the spare place treating me nicely.

ill update soon
harry
 

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Discussion Starter #8
couple of comments to accompany the carnage photos.
johnboy: no messing around here, the glorious life of a uni student on holidays haha ive got 24/7 to work on this, i might even have it done by the weekend depending how much i fart around. that aint gonna happen but in all honesty id love to have it done by next weekend and if not it'll definitely be done by Christmas.

the other thing is i would like to complain about the design of the cam bridges (is that what you call the cam holder bits). can anyone give be a reason as to why alfa have the cam running straight on the head and cam bridge with no bearing shell to replace when worn.
i love these cars but there's certainly the odd thing you come across were you just wonder what the hell they were thinking or what drugs they were taking. the only logical explination i can see is the support on the head side would be a pretty low load bearing area and the cap is easily replaceable and also the load bearing side. either way i still dont like it.
harry
 

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Discussion Starter #12
by retainers do you mean the cam retainers or the valve spring collets.
also the toes were just for a size comparison
the other side of the motor rotates freely, but there is a decent mark on the belt were the broken belt has hit it. ill ask also, is it worth going to the trouble of pulling the other head off to put a new head gasket in (the one that came in the kit i bought) or are they a pretty reliable thing that don't often fail
cheers
 

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I know you will be re-profiling the valve sittings on the head where you're changing the valves.
Will you be skimming the heads as well ?
If you are, make sure you cc the heads at the exact same values :thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yeah ill be reprofilling the new valves so to speak, only lapping them into the current seat though no fancy angled grinds or anything like that. I'm still unsure weather i should skim the heads or not. in my mind they're a very small unit so i cant imagine they would warp much if at all for that matter. if it was a straight 4 or 6 then i definitely would but it really is tiny. i might get it looked at buy a head shop but on the other hand i might not as that would require money which i do not have.
harry
 
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great work :cool: love the tight wad nature of your tool making :D

to answer an earlier question of yours. yes, the cam pulleys do have a keyway so you can remove the pulley without fear of losing the cam timing ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
cheers kev a little re assuring. i thought they would be sensible enough to do that but can never be too sure with this sort of stuff. also how does skimming give more power, is it just due to the slight increase in compression?
in terms of progress, not much happened today i really wasn't in the mood and it was quite a warm 34 degrees, i pulled all the old valve stem seals out though. they were a bit of a destroy to remove item, is this how they should be or am i doing something wrong?? i also gave it a general clean up in the combustion chamber so i don't have to do anything more along them lines.
anyway ill probably lap the valves in tomorrow and maybe reassemble the head, another question, will i do any damage using a brass wire wheel to remove the carbon on the piston tops?
harry
 
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