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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

Recently acquired a new Brera. Runs fine, within a few days of getting it drivers window has frozen. Will not move at all. Is thankfully in the up position albeit it a few mm down to allow opening the door easily.

I think I have read every post on similar issues and have done the following:

Disconnected the battery for a short and long period.

Tested the window control module in another Brera it works fine.

Tested the window switch as above, again works fine.

Disconnected the door harness and cleaned with contact cleaner.

Removed the fuse box and all connections to see if anything obviously and cleaned.

Regulator motor is making any kind of noise and I doubt its that as was replaced in the last few years. There is no obvious damage to the wiring anywhere and all the connections have looked good.

All I get when trying the switch is a click of the relay in the window control module, that I know is fine. All of the larger specialists seem to have shut down so not sure what to try next. I guess the next step would be to remove the regulator and bench test but having watched a tutorial on a 159 I think you need drop the window slightly to remove the glass which I cannot do?

Thanks

Nick
 

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You opened the switch up and checked to see it's making connection. They have a metal pad under the switch to make a connection. I had to put something under it to raise it slightly, so it made contact.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I haven't opened up the switch but pressing it up or down causing the relay in the window control module to click / energise so I am assuming it is fine. Think I tested it in another car. If the switch was faulty I guess it wouldn't operate the relay?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just tried a window switch from another Brera that I know is working [couldn't recall if I had done it already] and exactly the same thing. Relay in the window control module clicks but nothing else.
 

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Do you have flashing mileage on the dash?

Do you have an alert on the dashboard saying "window protection unavailable" or something along those lines?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In amongst the disconnecting the battery and swapping modules the millage did flash once but is not doing that now. Window protection is saying unavailable for the drivers side with the reset working fine for the passenger side.

Only other anomaly is the boot lock either by fob or button in the car sometimes after reconnecting the battery doesn't work first time. Removing the fuse seems to resolve.

Looking at a wiring diagram it seems to suggest fuse 80 in the boot is for the drivers window aside from the fuses marked for the windows in the main fusebox? Haven't checked it yet as the boot is playing up!
 

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Check the fuse for the driver's side window regulator. If you unplug the driver's regulator, you could check for power/earth at the plug when giving the command to move the window (with the door shut).

Similarly you could power-probe the driver's side regulator with 12v and an earth and see if it moves, just be careful as without anything controlling the current the glass will move fast and won't shut off when it hits the top or the bottom of the move like it normally does.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did think about supplying a live feed to the regulator but unscrewing it gives you a little room but you cannot see the pins having removed the connector. I am not sure if you can remove the regulator completely or far enough to probe the pins without risking touching more than one. I saw a guide on a 159 and the window had to be dropped slightly to access the bolts that hold the glass in place?

I know the regulator is working having tested it in another car. I am guessing that I can hear the clicking sounds of the relay suggests, while checking the fuse is necessary it can't be that due to relay energising?
 

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Sorry the regulator is typically what people call the mechanism/motor assembly, that's what you need to test to rule out. Not so easy if you can't get to the plug though. I don't like power probing stuff through the wires when they are still connected to the car, but if its just a two-wire plug you could cut the wires, probe them to see if the regulator is working and if it does work, reconnect them afterwards.

It could be a body computer issue also, or it could be there is a wiring fault on the car which is triggering an error in the body computer, connecting to it with diagnostics and checking for fault codes would be a good place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Sorry, I confused the regulator with the window control module. Autolusso replaced the regulator about 2 years ago. Its a 6 wire plug. Looks like power and earth [larger diameter] plus 2 lots of 2 which I guess are switching wires regarding direction.

Ill put it all back together and try to find someone locally who can read the body computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I pulled both side fuses from the boot and the passenger side module made the same clicking sound as the drivers side. Fuses replaced and passenger side now working fine. I am now thinking its most likely an earth fault in the door wiring loom. I have removed from the connection going into the body and plan on trying to test for possible breaks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Have tested the regulator by supplying a live feed from the connector the comes from the window control module and the regulator works fine. Window goes up and down smoothly. Have removed the loom partially from the door to try and continuity test to see if there is a break in one of the wires. Can't find anything.

Any ideas?
 

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At this point you need to check for fault codes, they should give you an idea of what path you need to go down. You can get multi-ECU scan for a laptop and cables to connect to the car's OBD port if you want to do this yourself.
 

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Is it actually a wiring/electrical fault? The cable that lifts the window up and down can rust, or the strands can break and bunch up on a pulley stopping the lifting process. I had to change the window regulator on our Spider for this reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Argh, this is hair pulling time. Got someone to use mulitecuscan. No faults found. Swapped fuse box and body control modules. This caused problems with the dash powering up. You now sometimes have to remove the main power feed to the fusebox to power it up. Coming home speedo and rev counter lost all signal, but radio and trip computer were working but not receiving signals.

I have tried every permutation. Swapped BCM, fusebox, door loom but nothing.

I am thinking its a wiring fault or more exactly an earth fault. Does anyone know the main earth connector locations on the body. I know the wiring is fine in the door and all modules work. The fusebox issue now makes me think its earth to the fusebox main feed that is playing up?

Thanks

Nick
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Should have added the regulator is virtually new. However, did try a second regulator too just to rule it out.
 

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Argh, this is hair pulling time. Got someone to use mulitecuscan. No faults found. Swapped fuse box and body control modules. This caused problems with the dash powering up. You now sometimes have to remove the main power feed to the fusebox to power it up. Coming home speedo and rev counter lost all signal, but radio and trip computer were working but not receiving signals.

I have tried every permutation. Swapped BCM, fusebox, door loom but nothing.

I am thinking its a wiring fault or more exactly an earth fault. Does anyone know the main earth connector locations on the body. I know the wiring is fine in the door and all modules work. The fusebox issue now makes me think its earth to the fusebox main feed that is playing up?

Thanks

Nick
If its showing window protection unavilable on the dashboard, that means there is a fault logged somewhere. What ECUs did you connect to and check for fault codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It is definitely showing window protection unavailable. It was just someone I know who used what he described as a multiecuscan lead and programme of which he said he had a licence. He ran through the modules and there were no faults according to him?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
All fixed, there was a break in the pink and white wire that feeds the supply. Break wasn't complete so it was allowing some current but not enough to move the motor!
 
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