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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, i've looked at loads of posts regarding Brake Fluid Replacement. I need to replace the Brake Fluid in my 147 2.0 Manual due to a softish brake pedal.

Now nearly everyone seems to recommend DOT 5.1 but what is the real difference between DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 - I know the 2 are compatible but is it advisable to use 5.1 in my 2.0 147, if I understand it DOT 5.1 would be considered an upgrade yet on the DemonTweeks site they have 1 brand of DOT 5.1 available UP Racing DOT 5.1 and it's approx half the price of all the DOT 4 fluids available.

Also as I understand bleeding the brakes is easy enough as they don't have to be bled in any particular order. I also understand the clutch would need bleeding but how do I do this, detailed description and pics would be real helpful.

Thanks everyone
 

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The usual difference with the DOT5.1 fluids is slightly longer life.
Most of the high performance & racing fluids are usually DOT4.

I used to use Castrol Super DOT4, which is surprisingly good when you compare the wet & dry boiling points.
Dry boiling point is when new
Wet boiling point is when used (they all absorb water).
 

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Don't get too bogged down in the different types of fluid, unless you are some kind of racing god you'll never see the difference.
 

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bleed the brakes starting furthest from the master cylinder
The order used to matter when they shared brake lines.
Now each brake has a totally seperate line from the ABS unit, the order doesn't matter.
 

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use the Castrol as DC recommended or else Ferodo.

remove as much old oil from the resevoir using a syringe before starting, in fact remove the 2 10mm bolts that holds the reservoir in place to allow it to tilt forwards to get out almost all of it... then bolt it back in place & fill with DOT4.0

for each claiper, starting at the back, open the nipple & push/twist the piston FULLY IN in order to remove al the old oil & gunk in there.

the rears will need a re-wind tool, the front will simply push back in using a prise bar.

bleed each caliper with the piston full IN.
 

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Chilli: There's a couple of how-to's on my website under Hints & Tips: Disc and pads change PDF includes bleeding and another one for the clutch.

As for the fluid, a good quality DOT 4 or Super DOT 4 will be fine for road-use ... just change it every two years.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks again Gazza, the clutch bleeding pdf makes the job seem simple enough.

Two questions, is the method for bleeding the clutch on a 147 the same as the 156 and do I do the clutch before the brakes or vice versa or does it not matter.

Thanks again peeps.
 
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I normally use either Castrol super dot 4 or ATE super blue brake fluid - neither of them ar that much more expensive than standard, but the boiling points are about as good as you can get without spending silly money on Castrol SRF.

The ATE super blue is pretty good as it is blue in colour so you know exactly when you've flushed out the old stuff as there is a very obvious colour change.
 

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Chilli: There's a couple of how-to's on my website under Hints & Tips: Disc and pads change PDF includes bleeding and another one for the clutch.

As for the fluid, a good quality DOT 4 or Super DOT 4 will be fine for road-use ... just change it every two years.
I thought it was 3 years :confused:
 

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Thanks again Gazza, the clutch bleeding pdf makes the job seem simple enough.

Two questions, is the method for bleeding the clutch on a 147 the same as the 156 and do I do the clutch before the brakes or vice versa or does it not matter.

Thanks again peeps.
All TS slave cylinders are same ... 147 and 156.

Doesn't really matter ... the clutch can be a pain and because the pedal doesn't travel back on it own (no return springs, etc), if you aren't careful you drag the dirty used fluid back up into the reservoir .. hence my suggestion that you close the valve of after each pump. Unless you use a pressurised bleed kit (gunson's). So it might be better to do the clutch first in hindsight.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
All TS slave cylinders are same ... 147 and 156.

Doesn't really matter ... the clutch can be a pain and because the pedal doesn't travel back on it own (no return springs, etc), if you aren't careful you drag the dirty used fluid back up into the reservoir .. hence my suggestion that you close the valve of after each pump. Unless you use a pressurised bleed kit (gunson's). So it might be better to do the clutch first in hindsight.
Top tip, I don't have a bleed kit but i'll have a mate helping so i'll shut the valve off before lifting the pedal.

Thanks to everyone for all your help
 
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