Rickyw,

I don't think there is a correct order and I don't use any brake bleeding kit. Just a small short hose that I put on a nipple on 90 degrees, then open a nipple and keep pressing a brake until all air comes out... Very fast and easy, and air cannot come in because of a brake fluid in a hose.

Cona

 

Very fast and easy, and air cannot come in because of a brake fluid in a hose.

Cona

Sorry, I meant that this procedure is easy and fast in a way that it isn't needed to open and close a nipple many times to remove air from the system... It is also good to slightly tap few times a brake calliper with a small hammer to free trapped air.

Cona

 

It's best to do it slowly.

 

On most cars I would start with the longest line moving progressively shortest line.

 

longest line first like he said, so on a rhd car this will be rear left
see StopTech : Balanced Brake Upgrades
'1. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid. '

 

Cheers guys

 

ABS Warning.

While these steps are essentially the same as brake bleeding has been done for over 50 years, it has become imperative not to let the reservoir run empty, because of the ABS. In the old days if you were working on your own and accidently allowed air to enter, you just started again and bled it out. Now if you do that, it gets in the ABS and you're fu@ked.

 

This is curious as I was talking to a mechanic the other day, He said you should start at the closest pipe to the resovoir. ????
I have always done the furthest first ,but he reckoned that starting at the nearest helps push the air away from the resovoir and this is more effective ?? :ermm:

 

Can't agree, only from my personal experience, about the ABS. ABS starts life full of air. Do the bleeding engine off, and it's simply a part of the hydraulics and it bleeds as normal.

I've always started furthest away, and tend to go round a few times - worked so far . . .started working on cars when I was 17, so that's . . . 30 years!

Used to be my mum on the pedal . . then various girlfriends . . . then a pressure bleeder made it quicker - but always found someone on the pedal for the last bit made it easier to get a decent pedal.

I feel old!

 

I have too prbably 30 years or more and always done it furthest first. not disagreeing Just thought it was odd he should have said what he did??

 

I did a brake job on a Jag with a pal of mine, we unfortunately let the fluid run out and we had no end of problems. In the end we had to hook it up to the computer and activate the pump etc to clear it. It was a real pain. Don't let the reservoir go empty.

 

I was taught to start furthest away but that was from fellas who learnt on single circuit brakes and with most cars today having 4 seperate circuit abs I dont think it makes any difference where you start.
As has been said, dont let the fluid run down and I found it much easier on my 156 and 159 to have the ignition on especially when bleeding the rears, I guess it must activate and open some valves in the abs block.

 

If you get really stuck you can in an emergency losen off the OUT pipes ONE AT A TIME on the abs block whilst topping the fluid and getting someone to apply gentle but constant presure to the pedal. This will purge the air if you use the DOWN,lock off THEN UP etc....
You will then still have to bleed the brakes as normal afterward.

 

I was always told to do longest to shortest line but in reality it doesnt matter where you start.. On cars with filthy fluid or a change to different colour fluid,I start on the side closest to reservoir just so I can do a majority of the draining on 1 line.