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hi all.just stripping down my spair engine and want to take the old belts off as i need to send the cams away to be reprofiled.Has anyone got any info or data on doing the timing belts.or timing the lot fro scratch.it looks rather more complex than a standard inline.would i be able to get away with marking each bank of cams to each other and then those marked against the crank.and anyone know of a maintainence manual for the 33. Mines a 1.7i 16v.many thanks for any input.
 

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If you are wanting the standard timing positions its quite simple. you do each head seperatly. Make sure the engine is tdc obviously, but on number 1 piston not number 4 (very easy to do) As the flywheel mark says top at both positions. Once you are certain that part is correct then the standard cam pullys have marks on them. one pully has one mark on the face (its a line) the other pully has 2 lines.

One pully will rotate by hand to the correct position the other needs to be turned and held as its under tension so use a 17mm spanner on the cam nut. you need to have the lines all pointing towards each other so they look like this =- the single line has to be in the middle of the double line. once in that position pop the belt on. ensure that the belt is tight on the opposite side to the tensioner so that when you release the tensioner it makes both sides tight.

Hope im not telling you how to suck eggs and it helps.

Paul
 

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thanks for the info guys, Spud would be great if you could e-mail me that data.tried to send u a pm but you mailbox is full so i will try later.
 

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thanks for the info guys, Spud would be great if you could e-mail me that data.tried to send u a pm but you mailbox is full so i will try later.
What engine code do you have? I have no listing for 16 valve engines in particular, the only 1.7 diagrams I have are for a 307.47 engine, is that yours?
 

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Ah, got it, is your engine code 307.47?
It shows the same alignment procedure for the non 16v engine, i will print it and get it to you.
 

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quick question regarding the timing belt tensioners.

I haven't had the chance to learn how to maintain or change timing belts yet.

Are the tensioners on a spring or are they set by locking a nut like the alternator tensioner?
 
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they are tensioned by a spring to set the correct tension but then locked in place by the central nut, unlike on say a jtd engine where it us constantly under spring tension and moveable.

hope that makes sense :confused:

that's for the 8V eninges anyway, presume the 16's will be similar??
 

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If it's anything like the sud's It's a spring caught in the tensioner casting, inserts into the block and you wind on the tension.

I found the easiest way was to force it back against it's own tension and pinch it up with the holding nut, time the belt then release to tension. :thumbs:
 

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they are tensioned by a spring to set the correct tension but then locked in place by the central nut
Assuming the correct spring was used when my boxer was rebuilt :rolleyes:how much should the belt move by when I press it with my thumb more or less.
 

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I was told rule of thumb when doing cambelts is when tensioned you should only be able to twist the belt 90degrees
No , thats too much and it will slip a tooth in a bad moment. Ussualy , what they say generally about tensioning cambelts is to be able to put a pen in between.
 

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No , thats too much and it will slip a tooth in a bad moment. Ussualy , what they say generally about tensioning cambelts is to be able to put a pen in between.
I took the cover off a couple of weeks ago just to investigate (being a curious beginner), and I think the belt was looser than that of what you describe Lonewolf.

Have to recheck for sure.

So a pen should be able to fit in between the belt and tensioner pulley?
 

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Assuming the correct spring was used when my boxer was rebuilt :rolleyes:how much should the belt move by when I press it with my thumb more or less.
As i know these springs can't be ordered anymore, and they are not part of the
belt tensioner or the complete cambelt+tensioner set either.
Probably you still have the factory ones.

The force of the tensioner spring in my '92 and '94 33s is not enough anymore to set
the necessary belt tension by itself. I have tested springs from a '96 146 1.6 boxer,
but those was weak too, i have to "override" the spring loaded belt tension while i was
tightened the nuts.

(Just a note: in many cases there's no need to replace the tensioner arm,
just the caster. Some cash can be saved because you can get a caster with
SKF bearing about half of the price of the complete tensioner arm.
But i agree, it's much easier to replace the whole tensioner.)
 
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