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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)


Ive got a few scartches on my bonnet which are only visible from a certain angle (photo 2 near the sun) and also some hologram type marks (photo 1 to the left). I think these hologram marks have been caused by me when i tried to get the scratches out:mad: . I bought some T-Cut Colour fast and used the web type cloth that you get on a roll from halfords. :eek: Now i know more anout these things ive invested in some MF Cloths etc. Theres also swirling. I was unaware of these things or at least how theyre caused until i started reading the Detailing section. Im totally gutted about it and its become an obsession.:lol: i tried AG SRP yesterday to no avail :cry:
Any ideas other than Paint Correction?
 

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Hi :)
SRP is a very good product, but it is only a 'filler' - i.e. it works to fill the aberrations in the clearcoat surface (swirls) rather than remove them. I'm not sure about the standard of paintwork on current Alfa models, but the DuPont water-based paint that Alfa used to employ was particularly soft (and thus prone to swirling). The swirling on your paint is only very minor though and you should be able to remove it sans the use of a rotary polisher. I would try a decent cutting polish (perhaps Menzerna PO85RD or PO91L) on a german applicator pad. Just make sure you concentrate on small sections, making sure to 'work' the polish before buffing. This should remove the swirls and hologramming (micromarring), just be sure to seal the paint with a proper carnauba wax when you've done.

This was the same method I used anyway (the swirling was far worse on mine beforehand though), I think it turned out quite well :) :
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi :)
SRP is a very good product, but it is only a 'filler' - i.e. it works to fill the aberrations in the clearcoat surface (swirls) rather than remove them. I'm not sure about the standard of paintwork on current Alfa models, but the DuPont water-based paint that Alfa used to employ was particularly soft (and thus prone to swirling). The swirling on your paint is only very minor though and you should be able to remove it sans the use of a rotary polisher. I would try a decent cutting polish (perhaps Menzerna PO85RD or PO91L) on a german applicator pad. Just make sure you concentrate on small sections, making sure to 'work' the polish before buffing. This should remove the swirls and hologramming (micromarring), just be sure to seal the paint with a proper carnauba wax when you've done.

This was the same method I used anyway (the swirling was far worse on mine beforehand though), I think it turned out quite well :) :
That looks the nuts! I mustnt be doing it correctly. It is really light as you say so i was pretty sure it sholud come out.:) Thanks for giving me some hope! When you say work how long should you rub it in in say for example a 12" square area? Should you use small circles as it says on the instrauctions for AG SRP? Also theres nother AG Product with a black label, Ultra Deep Shine i think its called. is that better than SRP?
 

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Hmmm, I've never tried the AG UDS, but I suspect it works on the same principles as the SRP - that is a 'filler' polish as opposed to a cutting agent. The trouble with fillers is that whilst it may appear to work wonders for minor paint defects, the results are only temporary as the filling agents will soon erode under normal weather conditions (rain, UV etc.). See here for a more in-depth explanation:
Detailing World - View Single Post - Machine Polishing by Dual Action Polisher - Full Guide

That is why I suggest a paint polish with a 'cut' rating to it. I personally like Menzerna, but there are many other types out there. The picture I posted was actually the result of menzerna on a random orbital polisher (and sealed with Pinnacle Souveran wax). However there are areas on my car for which it is too tight to use a machine polisher, yet the effects under elbow grease+a foam pad alone were equally as good. ;) I tend to work on an area rougly 6"x6" at a time. It doesn't matter whether you work the product in a circle or back-and-forth motion, just be sure to get some heat into it. Initially the product will haze but after working it for a while it will become clear - at which point you can begin to buff the residue. You can get Menzerna polishes (et. al.) as well as foam applicator pads from a variety of online retailers. There are some approved traders at the bottom of the detailingworld.co.uk forum homepage you might wish to check out. Good luck! :)
 

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Thought I should mention as well: don't be afraid of inflicting the same damage as that caused by when you used t-cut polish. T-cut is a very aggressive product that works well for removing paint oxidation, but is a bit of an overkill for minor swirls. The grit in the lighter strength Menzerna polishes (PO85RD) is much more refined and it's highly unlikely for you to induce hologramming when using this. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Im starting to think that the paint on my MiTo is like plastercine! I was Aquawaxing it today with a brand new MF cloth straight out of the bag/box and i swear i could see it doing very fine scratches on the bonnet:cry:
I made sure the car was clear of any grit etc by hosing it down first. What ive noticed though is when waxing when im buffing there appears to be tiny little bits which when felt with the palm of your hand are raised up.. When you move the cloth over them they get a little trail off them. I think theyre bits off dust/grit landing on the car. Any ideas? This is what makes me think its impossible to avoid swirls if you have to do these jobs outdoors. Im trying my hardest to avoid it happening with 2 buckets and a frequent rinse before each application of Shampoo etc.:cry:
 
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have you clayed the car at all?

if not it might be worth doing that to get rid of any 'muck' that is sat on the paint
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
have you clayed the car at all?

if not it might be worth doing that to get rid of any 'muck' that is sat on the paint
Im new to all of this and have read about it after never even hearing of it until a few weeks ago. At present im building up my products and am intrigued by it. Its something for the future i'll defo buy and would appreciate a recomendation for a beginner product if you can offer one?:)
For the record these little bits are going on after ive already done the buffing. I look at the bonnet for example after im finished and see them. Thats what makes me think its tiny grit particles. You can pick at them with your finger nail if that makes sense?
 

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Yep, claying the car is a very important step and seems like the precise solution to your problem. I personally use the Sonus detailing clay and Meguair's Quik Detail as lubricant, but there's little differentiation between product, just be sure to get a finer grade as opposed to an aggressive clay.
Here's an excellent guide to using detailing clay for which you may find helpful:
http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=4829

:)
 

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have you clayed the car at all?

if not it might be worth doing that to get rid of any 'muck' that is sat on the paint
What he said.

Claying is excellent. Had my 145 6 months now and its been clayed twice, trust me the results are actually amazing! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Thanks again guys! I'll check the links out tonight after ive watched the Toon game! Bloody hell, its nerve wracking!:cry: :cry:
Phew, out of the bot 3 thank god!
ANyway back to the car lol, the bonded contaminants make total sense with waht im experiencing and thanks again for opening my eyes to this! They dont seem to be there one minute then when you finish polishing bang they appear! What i wonder is do you bin the piece of clay after doing the car once?
 

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Thanks again guys! I'll check the links out tonight after ive watched the Toon game! Bloody hell, its nerve wracking!:cry: :cry:
Phew, out of the bot 3 thank god!
ANyway back to the car lol, the bonded contaminants make total sense with waht im experiencing and thanks again for opening my eyes to this! They dont seem to be there one minute then when you finish polishing bang they appear! What i wonder is do you bin the piece of clay after doing the car once?
It will make more sense when you actually use the clay but yes you can bin the clay or what I do is turn it around and use a fresh piece of clay that hasnt been used. ie remould it into a ball again and flaten out a new surface to use.
 
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