Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Really looking for some sound advice before I spend some money.
Details below as best as I can describe them regarding an erratic idle.

Start the car - engine starts well - revs increase and decrease until i drive away.

When I come to a stop or depress the clutch, the needle drops to approx 300 rpm and then shoots up to about 1500 rpm. It continues to do this but will eventually calm down and remain static at approx 600rpm. It some times takes longer to calm down than other times.

If i blip the accelerator, the cycle starts again - rev counter goes to approx 300rpm then shoots up and down and so on.

Yesterday i took got caught in some heavy traffic (Genesis!!) and after some amount of time the problem stopped altogether. Sure enough, when I fired up a few hours later - problem back again.

It may be nothing, but the problem seemed to improve when I was not running the air con???

Any help you can give whatsoever would be very much appreciated and will hopefully stop me spending unnecessary cash.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks - MAF seems the most obvious but I wanted as much expertise on the matter before i go in feet first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,220 Posts
I believe twinks have an egr valve that can go **** up or a throttle control valve.
Could also be split intake tube to throttle body . On the 166 this tends to split underneath due to oil breather system, cause an erratci or weak mixture at low revs.
I'm sure more knowlegdable twink bods will be along soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Try unplugging the MAF and see if the situation improves. If it does, then the MAF is looking like the culprit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Not sure where it is exactly on a 2.0, but it should sit somewhere in-between the air filter and intake manifold. The MAF is built into a section of ducting, around 4-6 inches in length, and of a diameter equal to that of the intake ducting. The back of the sensor protrudes from the side of the duct. There should be a cable coming from this sensor with a plug made off on one end. Unplug this, leaving the cable attached to the MAF. Make sure you keep the trailing end away from fans, belts etc. Start the engine, it will bring up the ECU warning light, but, if it is the cause of the problems, should improve the cars performance. If so, then replace MAF!
Hope this helps, it worked well on my V6.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,245 Posts
Mine did this bit of hunting for a while and a new Lambda calmed it down... but I only changed it because it was cheaper than a new MAF so it was worth a try. It's much better.. but I'm not convinced the problem is completely sorted.

Let us know how you get on.. I'll save up for a MAF too, if it solves your problem.


Ralf S.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top