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Issues with my 2009 Alfa 159 1.9 diesel 16valve 150.

I replaced the battery in May 2014, so its only 2.5 years old. Went flat during last winter (at only 2 years old). I figured it was just the cold, so I charged it. All was good for a few months. It went flat again recently, I charged it and it seemed OK again. No other issues with the car.

Following a 700+ mile trip, left the car for only 1 week and its totally dead. Not enough power to open the locks! I opened the door manually with the key and opened the bonnet. The car alarm did not go off (I thought it would - does a key in the lock deactivate it?). I have a spare car battery sitting about (thought it was good and charged), so tried a jump start from that, but it turns out that battery is also dead, so its gone now. There was however enough power from the jump battery to activate the car alarm! Took away the extra battery and everything went off again.

Stuck the charger on and the car alarm went a bit strange - not the normal siren, but an ascending/descending siren noise. Figuring this would take most of the charger power, I disconnected the battery to charge it.... couple of days later. Full battery, engine starts V easily. Locking/unlocking the car using the remote key and the locks work and the indicators flash (once for activate alarm, twice for deactivate), but there is no beep. I activated it with a window open and test the alarm - works, but with a different siren pattern to normal.

I need advice on the alarm please: Can you change the alarm siren pattern and turn on/off the activation beeps? How?

I also need advice on the electrics: I suspect it is just the battery, but it has failed very young! Voltage is around 14 when engine on so alternator is OK.

Amp draw: On first connecting, the car starts with a draw of 1.5ish amps and over maybe 30 seconds drops down to a settled 0.07A. This is little higher than online searches recommend (over 0.05A is a potential parasitic draw). Does this seem normal for the 159, or a bit high? Should I test the amp draw for longer?

Thank you all (again!)

Gareth
 

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Other than the two major earths around the battery, you have to check for drain after about 30 minutes after switching off
- you need to hook up amp meter and wait for all the systems to shut down.
 

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Further tests on the amp draw. It dropped to 0.07 after 20-30 seconds, but checking it 20 minutes later and its down to 0.02 with the occasional flicker of 0.03. Doesn't feel like a parasitic drain to me. I assume it must be a dead battery. I'm just surprised that it died after 2 years.
Does anyone have any other suggestions before I just order a new battery...
 

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I have exactly the same issue (Alfa 159 1.9 JTDM Ti Sportswagon 2008 plate) as described and changed the battery in January this year (2020) and so it’s only three months old. I changed the battery as the old battery (which I still have) would die after a week without running the car. Now in lockdown I seem to have the same battery drain problem, so I recharged the battery using a battery reconditioner (CTEK MXS 5.0). After leaving the car for 5 days it starts (a bit sluggishly) and testing with a Multi-meter I get 0.072 amps (DC) after 30+ seconds,...unfortunately the multi-meter (AstoAI DM6000AR) powers off after a couple of minutes!
Any advice other than going for a spin every 5+ days or keeping it on Permanent trickle charge during lock-down?
P.S. I also have an old Volvo V70 with one of this nonsense. To be fair my Mum’s 65 plate VW lost battery power after a couple of months,...
 

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Dead battery (And, Never charge with the battery connected)
Why?...as long as you have a modernish charger..ten years or newer...the intelligent type...there is no need at all to disconnect it. It is afterall being charged whilst connected all the time the engine is running. I can't even remember the last I even disconnected a battery to charge it.....never caused an issue.
 

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Dead battery (And, Never charge with the battery connected)
I have wired connector designed to be attached to my battery terminals 24x7x365 which are there when I need them for my battery reconditioner (CTEK MXS 5.0 - I have no commercial interest) to give a perfect fit. I therefore always have battery terminals connected when re-charging.
 

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Only time you must disconnect battery from car is if using the repair setting may modern chargers have. This is because it delivers a higher than standard voltage.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 

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Further tests on the amp draw. It dropped to 0.07 after 20-30 seconds, but checking it 20 minutes later and its down to 0.02 with the occasional flicker of 0.03. Doesn't feel like a parasitic drain to me. I assume it must be a dead battery. I'm just surprised that it died after 2 years.
Does anyone have any other suggestions before I just order a new battery...
@ContactGT my amp metrics are the same as yours. Did you solve your issue with/without replacing the battery? My battery is only six months old.

The Multi-meter readings are as per below:
939643
... after 60 seconds:
939644
 
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