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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Auxiliary belt swap on 1.6TS, excluding AC unit - SOLVED

Hi,
So.. my AC unit bearing is screaming like an old lady getting robbed.

I`ve got a new used one, but the system needs a pressure/leakage check and refill of gas/liquid.
So in the meantime (might be forever) i want to put on a shorter auxiliary belt, excluding ac unit when routing it. So far so good.

But over the past two days ive tried both belts recommended by my local parts store (Gates 6PK1025 and 6PK1043). The 1025 one was suppose to fit as my engine no. is 330xxxx, but this was too short. So i figured out i`ll try the 1043 one, giving me 18mm more. But it was too short. Lacking about 10mm on the radial to get it on (tensioner released fully). Would guess a 1055 might work.

So my question is: Have anyone put on a auxilary belt, excluding the ac? Because I'm thinking that i either have to buy a longer belt or my routing is wrong. And the only way my routing is wrong would be if the idler wheel are to be removed (or i am a dumbass. :lol:)
Anyone got a picture of their non-ac auxilary route?

Thanks!
 

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Some of the 156 twinsparks came without A/C so should do the job :thumbs:
 

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If you have the replacement a/c comp, why don't you just bolt it in place and use the std length belt until you can get it regassed? Will just run as an idler, won't do any harm.
 

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If you have a Sanden type compressor and the problem is the pulley bearing, why not just swap the pulleys over between the two units? No need to worry about the refrigerant.

This is the Sanden type compressor -

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums...e compressor/2011-11-25_10-49-02_DSC_0017.jpg

just demount it from the engine bracket, move it to a most accessible place on the flexible hoses, and swap the pulleys over.

You can make a puller like this to remove the clutch plate -
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums...e compressor/2011-11-24_13-36-37_DSC_0002.jpg

The only problem you'll have making a puller will be finding the three 1/4" UNC bolts in Norway.

And then you can carefully lever off the pulley against the compressor body bolts ( working around the three points a tiny bit at a time ).


EDIT : You can get the full service guide for the Sanden compressor here - http://www.sanden.com/servicemanual.html

It's also easy enough just to change the bearing -
http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums...e compressor/2011-11-24_13-38-56_DSC_0006.jpg although new bearings aren't that easy to find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The only reason im messing around with excluding this AC unit is that i heard the gass works as a carrier for lubrication of the bearing, hence i do not want to damage the "new" bearing before i get the unit regassed.

Are you guys saying im wasting my time and can fit the "new" ac unit without any risk of it getting broken?
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well. Solved for now. Removed the idler wheel and used the 6PK1043 belt like shown on the picture i posted a link to earlier. Works like a charm.

Note: Even though the 6PK1028 was suppose to fit my engine number, it was still too short with this setup.
 

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The lubricant in the refridgerant is for the compressor itself. If there is no refridgerant the compressor won't engage. The pulley bearing is a normal sealed bearing.

Anyway, sounds like you have a solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The lubricant in the refridgerant is for the compressor itself. If there is no refridgerant the compressor won't engage. The pulley bearing is a normal sealed bearing.

Anyway, sounds like you have a solution.
Aha. That makes sense. Thank you.
 
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