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Discussion Starter #1
Got my 72k service looming... No records of the Aux belt ever being done in the cars history, so it's due!

I'm happy doing the oil and filters on the driveway, and have done brakes, downpipe/precat replacement, slave cylinder replacement at home too...

Been reading a few guides, and it seems a little more tricky than the previous jobs: http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-147-156-andamp-gt/155351-147-auxiliary-belt-tensioner-idler-replacement.html

Questions are really:

1. How easy it it to **** up?
2. How bad are the consequences of cocking it up?
3. How critical is it that it gets done on time (i.e. could it wait until my next cambelt/waterpump service over with Autolusso at 90k in March)?
4. Is it worth replacing idlers/tensioners straight away? Wouldn't want to order just the belt and then find a rough bearing once the belt is off...
5. Any special tools required other than a funky 15mm swanneck/socket-wrench to get to the idler out?
6. Anyone want to come do it for me, payment in beer and a wash/wax of your ride?

Cheers all :thumbup:
 

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I found it a pig on the 1.9 without an assistant to keep the belt in place while I turned the engine, should be easy enough with some one to help for 5 mins, but it took me about 90 mins on my own as it kept pinging off. Grrrr
 

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I was doing the cambelt so it all had to come off. At 116000 miles I could have done with replacing them TBH, there is a bit of a rattle in there at low revs but they seemed smooth enough but I dont know if they are original or not. I will replace shortly, but only when one of the kids is back from Uni!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was doing the cambelt so it all had to come off. At 116000 miles I could have done with replacing them TBH, there is a bit of a rattle in there at low revs but they seemed smooth enough but I dont know if they are original or not. I will replace shortly, but only when one of the kids is back from Uni!
Fair enough...

I might just do the belt myself now and give the bearings a good feel... If they're rough get them done when the cambelt is off in the new year... I've covered 36k in the last 12 months (32.5k in the first 7 years with the original owner), so it's being used plenty!

Good opportunity to get the noisy clutch pulley on the alternator sorted too at the same time!
 

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I replaced mine on the 147 JTDm because it had failed - initially just changed the belt - but it shredded again in short order - at which point I changed the tensioner and idler - got them from EuroCar Parts as we have one nearby.

Once you've got the knack of getting the sprung tensioner fully pulled back, its not too difficult, although with a new belt that wants to return to the way it was folded in its carton a spare pair of hands is useful. (Handy to draw yourself a diagram of the way the belt runs because its surprisingly easy to get confused......or maybe that's just me getting old ;) )
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Once you've got the knack of getting the sprung tensioner fully pulled back, its not too difficult, although with a new belt that wants to return to the way it was folded in its carton a spare pair of hands is useful. (Handy to draw yourself a diagram of the way the belt runs because its surprisingly easy to get confused......or maybe that's just me getting old ;) )
I'll be unpacking the new belt from the box and giving it a week in a warm cupboard with the boiler to relax back into shape, should make fitting nice and easy!

Tensioner sounds easy enough... Get a socket/spanner on it, get a bar on that to give you a longer lever, rotate anti-clockwise to shift the sprung pulley over and release the tension - old belt off, new belt on, job-jobbed and have a cuppa... I wish :jester:
 

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I did my Timing Belt/waterpump/tensioners at the start of the month and fitted an new aux belt given it was all coming off anyway. Got Gates Pulley and Tensioner from a seller in Germany for £33 for the pair so for not a lot of money i'd change them too!

The belt can be a pain to get back on but it really does help to have someone turn the engine round as you shove that tensioner back as far as you can lol!!!!

Good luck :thumbup:
 

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that would be useful provision for a pin to keep the tensioner under load while the belt is put on, then remove the pin, like on a Busso. The JTD and TS both require you to be under the car applying the tension and above it keeping the belts on the pulleys, not easy!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hmmm...

In the pics I've seen it looked like it was all accessible from the top... I've been able to reach in/around things before to work (e.g. gear selector without removing the battery, sidelight bulbs in 5 mins and without swearing), so fingers crossed I can manage this without too much hassle!
 

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When I did it on a twinny I didn't have a 15mm swan neck spanner so I ground down a spare 3/8" drive 15mm socket until it would fit.

I would second what Richard says about noting the belt routing. I didn't and spent ages searching the internet for a picture.
 

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I wouldn't do just the belt, except if it's cracked or otherwise visibly worn. Inspect it thoroughly though, if it's fine I'd leave it till March.
 

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Is there a change interval for these belts, I'm not aware there is, just on condition surely ? I would only change it if it's obviously worn, cracked, fraying, oily etc. They're tough as old boots otherwise. When the tensioner pulley seized on another car the belt simply carried on turning until the plastic pulley melted from the friction and shattered. I simply removed a few bits of melted plastic from the grooves and refitted it with a new tensioner. It was fine for several years after.

Can only be done from the wheel well, underneath. No chance from the top. Awkward more than anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Is there a change interval for these belts, I'm not aware there is, just on condition surely ? I would only change it if it's obviously worn, cracked, fraying, oily etc. They're tough as old boots otherwise. When the tensioner pulley seized on another car the belt simply carried on turning until the plastic pulley melted from the friction and shattered. I simply removed a few bits of melted plastic from the grooves and refitted it with a new tensioner. It was fine for several years after.

Can only be done from the wheel well, underneath. No chance from the top. Awkward more than anything else.
72k is the Alfa recommended interval...

I've heard horror stories of a failing Aux belt taking out the timing belt... For the sake of a <£20 replacement every few years, I'd rather just do it...
 

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Just keep in mind the belt itself isn't usually the problem, it will snap regardless of age and quality if it slips on one of the pulleys. That's why it's imperative to thoroughly check EVERYTHING when you replace the belt (especially alternator & crank pulley).
 

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Good opportunity to get the noisy clutch pulley on the alternator sorted too at the same time!
Changing the belt isn't too bad (in the summer) but I had to give in on the alternator clutch pulley as the alternator needed to come out. Before I gave up and called the experts I had the belt on and off 4 times so I'm pretty good at changing it now!
 

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You can do the alternator just by dismounting it and orienting in situ so you can get an impact driver directly aligned on the pulley spline (rotate alternator downward). Pulley comes off easily enough like this. No need to remove alternator completely.
 

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I tried undoing the alternator and turning it for access but still couldn't undo the spline fitting. I don't have an impact wrench unfortunately. Once I read the many alternator threads I decided to just put it all back together and pay someone else to do the job. The garage took the alternator out from underneath once the drive shaft was out and the subframe. I think it was still tight and some levers where required somewhere. Even once on the bench the pulley couldn't be removed so I had a new alternator. It was quite expensive all in all but I'd had enough of lying under the car cursing.
 

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The garage couldn't remove the pulley with an impact driver even with the alternator off the car ? Bit worrying, or did they just try and use hand tools which may well not work given how tight the pulley seems to get.
 
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