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166 sportronic 3.0

gearbox works nice and smooth changing up through all gears, and changing down through all gears except changing down from 2nd to 1st. This change is accompanied with a jerk and a clunk sound.

this typically happens when approaching a stop sign and using the brakes. I thought it may have something to with the braking so tested it by pulling the gearbox into Neutral approaching the stop sign and using the brakes only. the problem didn't occur.

another thing I have noticed is there is a definite wobble at high speed. I thought this was a tyre out of balance (it has the same feel) but if I take my foot off the accelerator and just coast, the wobble goes away. Seems like an issue with the powertrain.

i understand the auto gearboxes on these cars are sealed and designed to be service free. so there is no dipstick for the 'box which you can check for fluid level and condition. You have to put it up on a hoist etc.

any ideas or advice?
 

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GT 2.0 JTS 2007
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Have you tried the following ecu reset.

Make sure you have all the codes for the ics and sat nav.

1. Disconnect both terminals cables from the battery and leave for 45 mins and short the disconnected leads for a few second to discharge any residual charge in the various ecu's.
2. Reconnect the battery.
3. Turn ignition on but don't start the engine, leave for 90 secs - the motorised inlet throttle body will be whirring and clicking as it goes through its self test.
4. Turn the ignition off for 90 seconds.
5. Start the engine but don't move the throttle pedal, leave the engine ticking over until the engine warms up to 90c and the radiator fan comes on (switch off the air con as the fan will come on sooner if not) then turn off the engine.
7. Start the engine and go for a fast drive which uses all the gears for 15 mins.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for that checklist. I'll run it through when I have a window of time and let you know if it works.
 

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Worth checking the top engine mount steady bar as well - the 'dog bone' as they do tend to fail and will allow the engine to move about more than intended which could agravate the issue.

It's always a good idea to reset the ECUs from time to time as Paul suggests though, so do that regardless. You might be surprised at just how different the car drives afterward - I know I was.
 

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If you're worried about the g'box oil, it can be changed. I've recently had mine changed. It takes 6L of expensive special Tutela oil.

For what it's worth, after 115k miles my sportronic oil was fairly clean. I was expecting it to be horrid and black.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for that tip. i'll check the engine mount too
checked the top engine mount. the rubber bushes looked in good condition and the engine rocked back and forth maybe 3-4 mm, which is about as much as I would expect the rubber to give.
 

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Sounds OK I think. A knackered dog bone is usually pretty obvious. BTW, if you do ever have to sort one out, get some poly bushes and just replace them. I replaced the whole thing when I did mine and it was more money for not such a good end result I think.
 
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