Hi Guys,
Bit of background:
My 159 2.4 is a 2006 with 48000, FSH, cambelt changed 3000 miles ago and full service carried out 2 weeks ago.
I have an on going issue with fault code P2013 - Swirl flaps sticking. When I first brought the car I had an issue with an erratic idle when the car was warm, it would stutter at tick over as if it was missing. This stopped when the company I brought the car off cleaned the inlet manifold and EGR when I first discovered the swirl valve issue. (This will be replaced in coming weeks)
During the hot weather last week my car threw up fault code P0115 - Water temp sensor (engine coolant temp circuit malfunction / high signal from the sensor). The cars temperature began to go up and down with throttle but never going over the operating temp of 90deC. The fan was also on quite a bit. A search on here suggests that this could be the water pump or thermostat. I believe this to be the thermostat as the water pump is still pumping and is only 3000 miles old. (This will also be replaced in coming weeks)
The erratic idle reappeared recently but stopped after fixing an oil leak around the air duct to the turbo pipe by tightening it with jubilee clips. Which was done last week around the time it started throwing up the water temp fault.
2 days ago I cleaned the EGR and fitted a partial blanking plate. The car sounds even better at tick over when initially started, and pulls a lot smoother feeling like it has a little more go. All good, except over the last couple of days I have been keeping my eye on the temp gauge due to the P0115 fault code. When the water temp reaches 90degC (never before) it has moments of unresponsiveness under throttle, almost as if it could stall. Then when your sitting at lights say, at idle, the car usually sits a 750 rpm, except since fitting the EGR partial blanking plate it will rev it's self between 750rpm and 850rpm. This only started after fitting the EGR blanking plate and only happens when the car reaches 90degC.
Now I can't find anything on here in terms of the EGR partial blanking plate causing similar issues. In fact reports seem positive after fitting. I realise that logically this must be my first suspect in terms of investigating this... but why would this make an improvement from cold but cause issues at operating temperature?
Additionally, is there a link between the EGR, inlet manifold and thermostat that could be causing the issue? As this seems to be temperature related, could this even be an issue at the EGR, but the lack of recirculated exhaust gases having a knock on effect a the thermostat some how?
Any body more techinically & mechanically minded then myself (not hard) be able to shed some light on the matter?