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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
I'm new to this forum, so please, be nice to me. And also excuse my bad english language...

I'm new proud owner of Alfa 166 2.0 TB Super. I'm quite satisfied with the car so far, but I want to "pimp" it a little bit. I can have a FL steering wheel from scrap yard with all the fitting accessories ("contact ring" under the wheel for airbag and radio controls reading + cables to radio). According to ePer, the steering wheels should be interchangeable (FL to pre-FL) but my main concern is about the ICS abilities to handle the radio controls. As eLearn workshop manual says, pins 16 and 18 in green connector of ICS are used for the steering wheel radio controls. But I have found another pinout description (from ICS videointerface thread) - http://nicolas.georgiou.free.fr/Schema%20liaison%20ics2.jpg. This image clearly states that these two pins are unused. And now I'm in doubt it won't work.

As far as I know there were few main versions of ICS (although ePer says there were many of them - hopefully they are different in it's look - wood, silver paint,...). So I hope the steering wheel controls from the FL version will be backwards compatible with my old ICS.

Did anyone of you done something like this before? Is the old ICS compatible with steering wheel radio controls? Or do I have to buy some newer ICS?

Thanks for any info.
 

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The pre facelift cars also had the radio control option fitted on the early steering wheel so it should work with facelift steering wheel.
 

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Hi guys,
I'm new to this forum, so please, be nice to me. And also excuse my bad english language...

I'm new proud owner of Alfa 166 2.0 TB Super. I'm quite satisfied with the car so far, but I want to "pimp" it a little bit. I can have a FL steering wheel from scrap yard with all the fitting accessories ("contact ring" under the wheel for airbag and radio controls reading + cables to radio). According to ePer, the steering wheels should be interchangeable (FL to pre-FL) but my main concern is about the ICS abilities to handle the radio controls. As eLearn workshop manual says, pins 16 and 18 in green connector of ICS are used for the steering wheel radio controls. But I have found another pinout description (from ICS videointerface thread) - http://nicolas.georgiou.free.fr/Schema%20liaison%20ics2.jpg. This image clearly states that these two pins are unused. And now I'm in doubt it won't work.

As far as I know there were few main versions of ICS (although ePer says there were many of them - hopefully they are different in it's look - wood, silver paint,...). So I hope the steering wheel controls from the FL version will be backwards compatible with my old ICS.

Did anyone of you done something like this before? Is the old ICS compatible with steering wheel radio controls? Or do I have to buy some newer ICS?

Thanks for any info.
Use the information and the diagrams from E-learn. 16 and 18 are the right pins, no matter, that in some documents they are described as "unused".
As Paul said, the earlier ICS versions are compatible with the steering wheel controls.
Already tested :)


Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You need Becker BE-2580 (FL radio) for the steering wheel to work. The Pre-FL radio (BE-2569) will not work with FL steering wheel (button resistances are different). Been there, done that.
 

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You need Becker BE-2580 (FL radio) for the steering wheel to work. The Pre-FL radio (BE-2569) will not work with FL steering wheel (button resistances are different). Been there, done that.
Hi Bajticzek...just curious to know if your FL steering wheel with ICS/audio controls is now working fine in your pre-FL166 with the upgraded FL Becker radio?
I'm about to install a pre-FL steering wheel with ICS/audio controls in my pre-FL 166. I should have no problems as I have the older version of the BECKER radio and the correct ICS...but could you explain how you made the connections at the back of the ICS?
The green female connector at the back of the ICS with pin 16 and 18 I think is already occupied...so the connector from the steering ICS/audio controls must plug into an empty female connector at the back of the ICS...either connector E or D? What did you do to make yours work?
Eagerly look forward to your response.

Cheers
DILIP SEN
Perth, W Australia
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'll provide a little more info about the pinout of ICS and steering wheel.

No matter if it's FL or pre-FL wheel/ICS/car, the pins used to receive the signals on the back of ICS are pins 16 and 18 of green connector. See connector II - there are pins 1 to 13 in bottom line and pins 14 to 26 it top line of the connector. So you will use pins 16 and 18.

If the pins in the mating connector are used, the wires must be leading somewhere and I'm quite sure you will have another two-pin connector attached to bottom cover of the steering wheel column. I didn't have it (neither the pins nor connector), so I had to improvise.

The only difference between the FL and pre-FL wheel and pinout is that FL wheel has two extra pins for illumination of buttons, as pre-FL wheel doesn't have them lit up (I think, never had a pre-FL wheel with controls in my hand, but according to eLearn it has only two pins).

But I think you must always use pre-FL wheel with pre-FL radio (BE2569) and FL wheel with FL radio (BE2580). The car you are using it in doesn't matter, FL radio/wheel will work in pre-FL car and vice-versa.

If you need any more info from me (measure resistances, make some photos), don't hesitate and leave a message in this thread.
 

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I'll provide a little more info about the pinout of ICS and steering wheel.

No matter if it's FL or pre-FL wheel/ICS/car, the pins used to receive the signals on the back of ICS are pins 16 and 18 of green connector. See connector II - there are pins 1 to 13 in bottom line and pins 14 to 26 it top line of the connector. So you will use pins 16 and 18.

If the pins in the mating connector are used, the wires must be leading somewhere and I'm quite sure you will have another two-pin connector attached to bottom cover of the steering wheel column. I didn't have it (neither the pins nor connector), so I had to improvise.

The only difference between the FL and pre-FL wheel and pinout is that FL wheel has two extra pins for illumination of buttons, as pre-FL wheel doesn't have them lit up (I think, never had a pre-FL wheel with controls in my hand, but according to eLearn it has only two pins).

But I think you must always use pre-FL wheel with pre-FL radio (BE2569) and FL wheel with FL radio (BE2580). The car you are using it in doesn't matter, FL radio/wheel will work in pre-FL car and vice-versa.

If you need any more info from me (measure resistances, make some photos), don't hesitate and leave a message in this thread.
Hi Bajticzek...many thanks for the prompt reply!
My car is pre-FL 2002 model and the steering with ICS/audio controls is also a pre-FL steering...the ICS and the Becker radio (BE2569) in my car are therefore also pre-FL....everything pre-FL so hopefully there will be no issues!

I have the rear diagram of the ICS....there is already a male green connector plugged into connector II behind my ICS so I don't quite follow how I can use pin 16 and 18 in the green connector II to connect the plugs from the steering wheel. The only free connectors are B & E in my car.

Now I do have a photo of the plugs that come with the pre-FL steering with controls (and a photo of the wheel itself!)....but I don't know how to insert the photos in this reply...easy if you send me your email address! The wheel has two male plugs (with pins) - a yellow one and a black one. There is no way I can plug them into connector II...and I have no idea where they get plugged in to get connected to pins 16 and 18 in connector II!

Are there female connectors in the steering column somewhere (connected to pins 16 and 18) where you connect these two male plugs from the steering, you think? The ones you said you didn't have and had to improvise!
In my case, at least the steering comes with two male plugs (with pins)...I don't know if my steering column has reciprocal female connectors for them!
Over to you for your further advice....and thanks a bunch!

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You have my e-mail address in private message, so send me the photos you have. :) I'll reply in this thread again, so it can be helpful to others too.
 

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The only difference between the FL and pre-FL wheel and pinout is that FL wheel has two extra pins for illumination of buttons, as pre-FL wheel doesn't have them lit up (I think, never had a pre-FL wheel with controls in my hand, but according to eLearn it has only two pins).
I've recently fitted a 166 pre f/l wheel with audio controls to my GTV and they do have the ability to be illuminated.

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m615/pkr1/Steering wheel/2015-08-15_15-16-49_DSC_0013_zpswruqq0ch.jpg

( Obviously the illumination does not show up there! ).

If anyone needs to add the wiring and wants to use the correct connector between the clockspring and the car, it is a 4 way TE Multilock 040.

174966-2 | 4 way Multilock 040 cable plug housing | TE Connectivity

and the crimp terminals -

173681-1 | PCB Connector Contact, Female, Crimp, Tin Plating 20 ? 22 AWG | TE Connectivity

You can just see the 4 way connector ( with 166 code pink & pink/black wires ) I installed in my GTV immediately below the speedometer -

http://i1134.photobucket.com/albums/m615/pkr1/Steering wheel/2015-08-15_12-17-06_DSC_0011_zpsjdgs1ubq.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
So, at first I would like you to excuse my bad english. It is not my native language and I don't use it much. Some of the names and words will be translated via Google translate, so bear that in mind. Second thing is that this post will be full of url links. They all lead to my own website, feel free to download and distribute the images as you like. But users with internet data limit beware! These images are kinda big (~1MB each).

I'll try to teach you how to solder, how to crimp and finally how to wire up the radio controls.

At first you will need some tools. Besides screwdrivers and ratchet with some sockets to take out ICS, undo the steering wheel and steering column cover, you will need:
Nippers, stripping pliers, crimping pliers
Soldering gun, solder, flux - or better liquid flux
Heat-shrink tubes
Textile tape and maybe electrical tape
Zip-ties (cable-ties)

I don't know how to call them (in Czech electrical slang we call them beggars), but avoid using these at all cost:
Don't use these!

The liquid flux can be either bought or made using isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol / rubbing alcohol / denaturated alcohol) and crushed solid flux. Nice tutorial is here:
Youtube link


If you don't know how to solder, these images will show you how to do it. It is simple and pretty straightforward.

1. Strip about 1 cm of each wire and put piece (longer than stripped part) of heat-shrink tube on one end.
2. Twist both stripped parts together.
3. Add few drops of liquid flux to the joint.
4. Solder the wires together by heating the joint with the solder gun and pushing the end of solder to the joint. That way will the solder fill the joint completely. You will hear the isopropanol compound of liquid flux evaporate as you heat up the joint. That's normal.
5. Drag the heat-shrink tube over soldered joint and heat it with lighter.

Pretty easy, huh? Now if you need to split one wire into two wires, you must follow different approach.

1. Start by stripping all the wires.
2. Twist two wires together and put piece of heat-shrink tube on the separate wire.
3. Now twist the double-wire with separate wire together and apply flux.
4. Solder.
5. Drag the heat-shrink tube over the joint and heat it with lighter.

This approach is most useful when you need to split one wire into two of them. Like if you need to light up two same bulbs from one wire. But if you need to "steal" a current from wire you cut, like you will be doing in powering the illumination on steering wheel controls, you should better solder the wires this way:

1. Strip all the wires. Notice the new wire should be stripped more, let's say 2cm.
2. Drag the heat-shrink tube over one end of "original" wire and twist these two ends together.
3. Now add the new wire to the joint.
4. Solder.
5. Apply heat-shrink tube.

So I hope now you can solder like a pro. Now I'll show you how to crimp connectors to the wire. You will need it to crimp the contacts for black 4-pin connector and 2 contacts for green 26-pin ICS connector.

1. Strip appropriate length of the wire. It should be 1-2mm longer than crimping part for bare wire of used contact. On the image (from top to bottom) you can see FAST-ON connectors 4.8mm, 6.3mm, mini-ISO (Micro Timer) and ISO (Junior Timer) contacts.
2. Crimp the part of contact for bare wire using crimping pliers.
3. So it looks like this.
4. Now crimp the part of contact for insulation used for securing the wire in case of random pulling so it looks like this.

If you lack the crimping tool for miniature contact like Micro Timer, you can use the nippers to crimp. Be gentle, don't cut the contact in half.
1. Strip appropriate length of wire again.
2. "Crimp" it in many spots, so the wire holds in place tightly.
3. Now use crimping pliers for the insulated part.
4. Finished product.

Now you have all the knowledge to succesfully wire the radio controls.

So how does it look like in your car? I am almost sure you lack the required connector and all wiring. The original wiring in car should look like this:
Image 1
Image 2
It is wired through the hole under the screw and goes on to the ICS.
Wiring
The connector looks like this: Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4

The original wire colors are:
  • ORANGE-BLACK - goes to ICS green connector pin no. 2. The pin 2 is already populated in green connector, so you will have to cut (split) the original wire and add new wire to it.
  • PINK - goes to ICS green connector pin no. 16.
  • PINK-BLACK - goes to ICS green connector pin no. 18.
  • BLACK - this one is earthed. You can buy eye terminal, crimp it on the cable and screw it in some hole (where located) under the dashboard.
The pins are pushed inside the connector - image. The order is the same as in the list above!

The connector and pins you need are the ones pkr wrote in post above me. I found a set on eBay for US $10 shipped to EU.
It is:
  • 1pc 174966-2 - connector housing
  • 4pcs 173681-1 - receptacles
eBay listing is HERE

Now you need to disassemble the green connector that goes to ICS:
This is the connector you will be working with.
1. Cut the cable tie.
2. Push the locking mechanism away so it looks like this.
3. Pull the inside out.

In this case pins 1,2,3,7,8,9,10 from one side and pins 15,16,18,20 and 22 are populated. Your case may be different but you get the point. Pins that are the most important are 16 and 18.

I've done my homework and searched for the used pins. It was a pain to find them, but I found them. You should use 2 of these pins:
  • 2-1411550-1 for cross-section of wire 0.2-0.5mm2
  • 2-1411551-1 for cross-section of wire 0.5-0.75mm2
After crimping the wires just push the pins in appropriate holes in the housing and reassemble the connector in reverse order. Use the zip tie to secure the harness to connector.

Finally use the textile tape to neatly wrap the finished harness, so it will look like original wiring. The electrical tape can be used to wrap the wires each 20-30cm with 1-2 turn. So the wraping with textile tape becomes easier in next step.

I hope I've written everything needed for succesful connection of steering wheel radio controls. If you need any other advice, just post here and I will answer as soon as possible.
 

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Install Steering With ICS/Audio Controls

Thank you immensely, Bajitczek, for your very thorough step-by-step instructions on how to install a Steering with ICS/Audio Controls in a car that came without one...including all the required wiring and connections needed.

No customary email came from the Forum this time when you posted your message...so I thought you might've overlooked it!
And, I'd like you to know that your English is a whole lot better than what my Czech will ever be!
Also it was indeed a great idea to post your definitive step-by-step instructions on the Forum for the benefit of all!

Although I would be asking an expert car audio electrician to do this work for me, I need to understand myself exactly what needs to be done and why?
I shall go through your instructions carefully and prepare a list of queries if I have any and post them to you in the Forum shortly.
Once again many thanks for all the trouble you have taken with this matter.

Cheers
DILIP
 

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So, at first I would like you to excuse my bad english. It is not my native language and I don't use it much. Some of the names and words will be translated via Google translate, so bear that in mind. Second thing is that this post will be full of url links. They all lead to my own website, feel free to download and distribute the images as you like. But users with internet data limit beware! These images are kinda big (~1MB each).

I'll try to teach you how to solder, how to crimp and finally how to wire up the radio controls.

At first you will need some tools. Besides screwdrivers and ratchet with some sockets to take out ICS, undo the steering wheel and steering column cover, you will need:
Nippers, stripping pliers, crimping pliers
Soldering gun, solder, flux - or better liquid flux
Heat-shrink tubes
Textile tape and maybe electrical tape
Zip-ties (cable-ties)

I don't know how to call them (in Czech electrical slang we call them beggars), but avoid using these at all cost:
Don't use these!

The liquid flux can be either bought or made using isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol / rubbing alcohol / denaturated alcohol) and crushed solid flux. Nice tutorial is here:
Youtube link


If you don't know how to solder, these images will show you how to do it. It is simple and pretty straightforward.

1. Strip about 1 cm of each wire and put piece (longer than stripped part) of heat-shrink tube on one end.
2. Twist both stripped parts together.
3. Add few drops of liquid flux to the joint.
4. Solder the wires together by heating the joint with the solder gun and pushing the end of solder to the joint. That way will the solder fill the joint completely. You will hear the isopropanol compound of liquid flux evaporate as you heat up the joint. That's normal.
5. Drag the heat-shrink tube over soldered joint and heat it with lighter.

Pretty easy, huh? Now if you need to split one wire into two wires, you must follow different approach.

1. Start by stripping all the wires.
2. Twist two wires together and put piece of heat-shrink tube on the separate wire.
3. Now twist the double-wire with separate wire together and apply flux.
4. Solder.
5. Drag the heat-shrink tube over the joint and heat it with lighter.

This approach is most useful when you need to split one wire into two of them. Like if you need to light up two same bulbs from one wire. But if you need to "steal" a current from wire you cut, like you will be doing in powering the illumination on steering wheel controls, you should better solder the wires this way:

1. Strip all the wires. Notice the new wire should be stripped more, let's say 2cm.
2. Drag the heat-shrink tube over one end of "original" wire and twist these two ends together.
3. Now add the new wire to the joint.
4. Solder.
5. Apply heat-shrink tube.

So I hope now you can solder like a pro. Now I'll show you how to crimp connectors to the wire. You will need it to crimp the contacts for black 4-pin connector and 2 contacts for green 26-pin ICS connector.

1. Strip appropriate length of the wire. It should be 1-2mm longer than crimping part for bare wire of used contact. On the image (from top to bottom) you can see FAST-ON connectors 4.8mm, 6.3mm, mini-ISO (Micro Timer) and ISO (Junior Timer) contacts.
2. Crimp the part of contact for bare wire using crimping pliers.
3. So it looks like this.
4. Now crimp the part of contact for insulation used for securing the wire in case of random pulling so it looks like this.

If you lack the crimping tool for miniature contact like Micro Timer, you can use the nippers to crimp. Be gentle, don't cut the contact in half.
1. Strip appropriate length of wire again.
2. "Crimp" it in many spots, so the wire holds in place tightly.
3. Now use crimping pliers for the insulated part.
4. Finished product.

Now you have all the knowledge to succesfully wire the radio controls.

So how does it look like in your car? I am almost sure you lack the required connector and all wiring. The original wiring in car should look like this:
Image 1
Image 2
It is wired through the hole under the screw and goes on to the ICS.
Wiring
The connector looks like this: Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4

The original wire colors are:
  • ORANGE-BLACK - goes to ICS green connector pin no. 2. If you have navigation unit in your trunk, this wire will be already in green connector in place, so you will have to solder new wire to the existing one.
  • PINK - goes to ICS green connector pin no. 16.
  • PINK-BLACK - goes to ICS green connector pin no. 18.
  • BLACK - this one is earthed. You can buy eye terminal, crimp it on the cable and screw it in some hole (where located) under the dashboard.
The pins are pushed inside the connector - image. The order is the same as in the list above!

The connector and pins you need are the ones pkr wrote in post above me. I found a set on eBay for US $10 shipped to EU.
It is:
  • 1pc 174966-2 - connector housing
  • 4pcs 173681-1 - receptacles
eBay listing is HERE

Now you need to disassemble the green connector that goes to ICS:
This is the connector you will be working with.
1. Cut the cable tie.
2. Push the locking mechanism away so it looks like this.
3. Pull the inside out.

In this case pins 1,2,3,7,8,9,10 from one side and pins 15,16,18,20 and 22 are populated. Your case may be different but you get the point. Pins that are the most important are 16 and 18.

I've done my homework and searched for the used pins. It was a pain to find them, but I found them. You should use pins:
  • 2-1411550-1 for cross-section of wire 0.2-0.5mm2
  • 2-1411551-1 for cross-section of wire 0.5-0.75mm2
If you have pin 2 populated in the green connector, you will need two new pins. If not, you will need three. I haven't found them on eBay, but international suppliers like RS-Online, DigiKey or Mouser may be the way to go.

After crimping the wires just push the pins in appropriate holes in the housing and reassemble the connector in reverse order. Use the zip tie to secure the harness to connector.

Finally use the textile tape to neatly wrap the finished harness, so it will look like original wiring. The electrical tape can be used to wrap the wires each 20-30cm with 1-2 turn. So the wraping with textile tape becomes easier in next step.

I hope I've written everything needed for succesful connection of steering wheel radio controls. If you need any other advice, just post here and I will answer as soon as possible.
Hi again Bajticzek (I don't wish to confuse everyone by calling you Radek!),
I have read your last posting of course and some of your earlier ones as well. And, I do have some queries...

(A) Besides the Steering Wheel with controls, don't I first need the correct Clock Spring ('contact ring') and the correct Steering Wheel Harness ('cables') all connected back-to-back in series (with the appropriate ICS/audio leads in them) before I can do all the soldering, slicing and connecting that you have outlined so well?
(B) If this is indeed the case, splicing and soldering will only be required to insert the rear end leads of the Steering Wheel Harness into the green male connector from the car's main wiring harness at points 16 & 18. Am I on the right track here?

If so, you didn't explain a way to make the steering wheel controls work WITHOUT having to replace both the existing Clock Spring and the Steering Wheel Harness...or did you? I hope you did...because all I have access to is just a Steering Wheel with controls!

Cheers
DILIP
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Sorry for late reply, I was swapping two complete dashboards between two 166s today and I finished few moments ago. It was hell of a job...

I attached two photos you sent me. If this is your steering wheel you are trying to fit, then it's all ready to be mounted. As you can see on the second picture, there are two connectors. The airbag/horn connector is same for all 166s and the second, black, is present too. As you can see on the photograph, the clockspring is a part of the steering wheel. So you don't need to get another one. But if the pictures you sent me are not the pictures of your actual wheel, then yes, you need to buy a clockspring that has besides the yellow cable/connector also the black one.

And for your second question - you will be soldering exactly one cable. You will have to crimp 4 contacts for the black connector that goes to the steering wheel, 2 contacts (pin 16 and 18) for the green connector for ICS and finally crimp the eye terminal for the ground wire (black one). The soldering will be done on the orange/black cable going from pin 2 of green ICS connector. This wire is for switched +12V (via ignition lock), so be sure you have your key taken out of the ignition before soldering.

I am sorry I made some confusion with the pin 2 (orange-black) cable going to navi unit. I read the wiring diagram from eLearn wrong. I also edited my previous post, so I don't spread nonsense.

If it still doesn't make sense, see the third picture I attached to this post.

So the final BOM should be:
  • 1x 174966-2 connector
  • 4x 173681-1 receptacles
  • 2x 2-1411550-1 or 2x 2-1411551-1 receptacles for ICS connector
  • 1x eye terminal for ground connection
 

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Sorry for late reply, I was swapping two complete dashboards between two 166s today and I finished few moments ago. It was hell of a job...

I attached two photos you sent me. If this is your steering wheel you are trying to fit, then it's all ready to be mounted. As you can see on the second picture, there are two connectors. The airbag/horn connector is same for all 166s and the second, black, is present too. As you can see on the photograph, the clockspring is a part of the steering wheel. So you don't need to get another one. But if the pictures you sent me are not the pictures of your actual wheel, then yes, you need to buy a clockspring that has besides the yellow cable/connector also the black one.

And for your second question - you will be soldering exactly one cable. You will have to crimp 4 contacts for the black connector that goes to the steering wheel, 2 contacts (pin 16 and 18) for the green connector for ICS and finally crimp the eye terminal for the ground wire (black one). The soldering will be done on the orange/black cable going from pin 2 of green ICS connector. This wire is for switched +12V (via ignition lock), so be sure you have your key taken out of the ignition before soldering.

I am sorry I made some confusion with the pin 2 (orange-black) cable going to navi unit. I read the wiring diagram from eLearn wrong. I also edited my previous post, so I don't spread nonsense.

If it still doesn't make sense, see the third picture I attached to this post.

So the final BOM should be:
  • 1x 174966-2 connector
  • 4x 173681-1 receptacles
  • 2x 2-1411550-1 or 2x 2-1411551-1 receptacles for ICS connector
  • 1x eye terminal for ground connection
You are never late replying to me, buddy...you're a real gem!
I wish I had you living next-door to me here in Perth...better still, me living next-door to you in Prague (I was there in May this year)!

It was music to my ears hearing I just had to worry about the one cable only!
So please correct me if I'm mistaken on any of the following points:

(a) I already have the clock-ring in the steering wheel and the BLACK PLUG in my photo will plug into the cable with the OTHER black plug I have to put together....which in turn will connect to the GREEN CONNECTOR at the back of the ICS?

(b) There is an existing cable with plug in my car now (probably yellow in colour) that will connect to the YELLOW PLUG in my photo?

(c) The wires in the BLACK PLUG in my photo must be ORANGE-BLACK, PINK, PINK-BLACK and BLACK to match the OE cable that I don't have in my car now...but have to put together as per your instructions?

(d) When putting together this cable get hold of adequate lengths of wires in the above colours to comfortably reach the GREEN CONNECTOR from the two BLACK PLUGS that will connect to each other at the steering end?

(e) Crimp, solder and insert in place correctly the wires as per your instructions so two (2) of the wires PINK and PINK-BLACK go into points 16 & 18 as specified into the green connector, the ORANGE-BLACK 3rd wire will be soldered to the ORANGE-BLACK wire coming out of point 2 in the green connector...while the BLACK 4th wire crimped with an 'eye' is to be earthed appropriately. The circuit will be powered by turning on the ignition from existing connection at point 2...but key must be taken out when soldering ORANGE-BLACK wire at point 2 in green connector?

Once I get your OK on the above points I will know at least that the steering controls will work and that I have understood fully how the whole thing is put together. Over to you...and thanks a heap!
 

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I would also recommend thin wall cable ( wall = thickness of the insulation ) for use with the connectors are they are fairly high density and even low amperage standard wall automotive cables are too thick for use with these connectors.

e.g.
Autosparks - Thinwall Cable (Price per Metre) 32/0.20 16.5 Amp

Even those have way too much current carrying capability for steering wheel controls.
Hi pkr!
I see you've been following the exchanges between big 'B' and me.
I shall definitely bear in mind your advice on using 'thin wall' cables...so it all gets done the right way the first time!
I'm eagerly awaiting B's response to my queries above...but I hope I have your endorsement as you have made no further comments?

Cheers
DILIP
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Hi again, pkr suggests using thin-wall wires. It's a good idea, but I think standard automotive cables will suffice. They are called FLRY cables and they have thin wall - that's their purpose, it's for automotive industry.

I'll answer your questions this way:

a) Yes
b) Yes
c) No, the colors can be whatever you like. But it's a standard to mark ground wires black or brown and +12V wires red, orange, yellow or green.
d) Yes, you'll have to measure the distance between the steering column and ICS first. If you'll do the harness longer, it doesn't hurt. Short is of course a problem.
e) Yes, you followed the instructions correctly. The orange-black wire will be powered up after the ignition is turned on and the steering wheel controls will light up right away. That's why you should have ignition turned off so in case of shorting the orange-black wire to ground you don't unnecessary blow one of your fuses.

I don't usually do it, but if you are still kinda scared of the outcome, I can send you original harness from one crashed 166 for free. You'll only have to solder the orange-black wire. I think it would be easiest, but your own initiative is always the best for learning something new. It's your call.
 
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