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The cam sensor can wear out as the pulley wheel expands due to rust.Often diag saying a cam sensor is gone can actually be a faulty crank sensor.Happened to me on several twinsparks we have had come into the workshop.
It is possible to replace the sensor by removing the wheel but it will be pot luck that the ignition timing is still accurate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes it has been done. Do a search on here. Its tricky I think but no more than taking off the cambelt and doing it
OK thanks for replies. The search tool is not working for me? getting "connection to sphinx01:3312 failed (errno=111, msg=Connection refused)" ?? anyone else getting this? could be my browser?
 
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Copy paste is a wonderful thing

Thought I would share my new method of changing the cam sensor without the need to remove pulleys or timing belt.
1, Remove the coil pack cover.
2, Remove the coil pack assy.
3, Remove the camshaft cover.
4, This is the key to the whole procedure remove the variator seal shell / exhaust seal cap it gives clearance to rotate the sensor clockwise as the cap actually stops rotation due to it sticking out further than the head.
5, Now make sure you have the cut-out in the exhaust pulley pointing upwards.
6, Remove the two bolts fixing the sensor in place being carefully not to drop the screws I magnetised my Allen key.
7, Disconnect the sensor plug on the inlet plenum also removing it from the the back of the water pump and leave it hanging from the sensor. Or just cut it at the sensor and pull it out as it's scrap anyway.
8, Now move the sensor in a clock wise direction following the rib /track on the back of the exhaust pulley until it is at the top of the pulley and hey presto it's out without removing a single belt or pulley.
9, Put some masking tape over the inner faces of the new cam sensor to protect them and then at the top of the pulley put the sensor onto the track and following the track anti clockwise until it's in position with the little locating peg on the back of the sensor located put the two fastenings back in.
10, Then route your cable back through the gap behind the belt and pump and reconnect at plenum.
11, Refit the remaining parts removed earlier remembering to remove the tape by rotating the pulley back round so you can see the sensor through the pulley cut-out and pick the tape out.
The tape will have also acted like a levelling shim to ensure the sensor is clear of the track.
12, Now think how much money you have just saved yourself fitting it yourself without having to worry about buying another timing kit and setting the timing

I really hope this helps others I have tried this over and over tonight and it is faultless apart from me trying to explain it probably.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did this today. It all went well until putting in the new sensor. I had cut the cable on the old one.
There is NO WAY on gods earth the new cable connector will pass behind the cambelt. It needs to go through a channel in the block casting, and you can hardly get your little finger in there, let alone the big plug.
I ended up having to cut the new lead and solder it back together, still a saving over taking the cambelts off though.

Maybe these have been written for a Phase 1? mine is a P2
 

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I had exactly the same trouble on my Ph1. Couldn't be done.

I've not been vocal about it because there are people who are adamant it can be done but I cannot see how.
 
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