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Discussion Starter #1
As title says. Anyone got any tips. Never done it before. It's a GT jtdm. Any bleed nipples I need to look out for? What do I need to do with the heating system while flushing or after the flush? do I need to back flush?
Cheers
 
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If you feel up to it take as many hoses off as you can and get a bottle brush and give them a clean as well then rinse them through and replace the rad is probably the thing that needs the most attention. I have often wondered whether it was safe to use a kettle de scaler but don't know if it would be safe with gaskets ??
 

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If you feel up to it take as many hoses off as you can and get a bottle brush and give them a clean as well then rinse them through and replace the rad is probably the thing that needs the most attention. I have often wondered whether it was safe to use a kettle de scaler but don't know if it would be safe with gaskets ??
I never thought of using kettle descaler for cleaning out the rad. Given that many kettles are made of plastic I'd imagine that it wouldn't do any harm, only problem I could foresee is keeping it hot enough for long enough for it to be effective on any limescale that's formed.

Saying that, I'll leave it to someone else to try it first ;)
 
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There's an easy way... Let your engine and water pump do all the hard work;)

Many theories and practices but all involve removing fittings and hoses which can end up in fumbled disasters, especially when it comes to removing the bottom hose and elbow from the radiator itself... Not good...

This simple method avoids all the heartache!

Get the engine up to operating temperature then turn off.
Slowly and carefully open the coolant expansion tank cap, leave it off. Disconnect the thin top return pipe to the expansion tank and force the end of the pipe into a 4 ft length of garden hose and a big enough bucket to catch the waste coolant.
Now put a hose pipe into the filler neck and turn the water on (use a hot water tap, not cold as this would just simply close the thermostat back down limiting the full circulation and attempt at flushing the system thoroughly if you did use cold water)
Turn your heater controls to hot and start the car up... No bleeding, no fuss, as long as the water is circulating and coming out the return pipe into the bucket instead. Once it runs clear its all flushed out... Turn off the hose pipe and turn the engine back off.

Now fresh coolant just poured in while the engine is ticking over again until you start to see the coloured coolant come into the bucket... Depending on engine variant just put the right amount in for a 50/50 split of the solution and fresh water that's all ready in the system. i.e. 6 ltrs total for the cooling system = 3 ltrs of neat coolant
Turn off the engine again. Reconnect the return pipe back to the expansion tank. Leave the cap off and start up again and leave it to tick over watching the level and topping up as needed until the radiator fans have kicked in... Turn off, refit the cap... Job done;)

Easy when you know how...
Just dispose of the old coolant responsibly at a local council refuse depot:thumbs:
 
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thats very clever never would have thought of doing it that way brilliant idea :thumbs:
Is there anything you can add to clean the deposits? would you use a flush or something else?
 
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As long as the coolant system in the car meets two former criteria's, then there shouldn't be a need to use a proprietary flush.
1. If the vehicle has always had regular services and continuous coolant throughout its life.
2. If you live in a hard water area, use distilled, purified water. But boil it up and place back in the bottles just before using first as per an alternative to the hose pipe method.

If neither haven't been the case then a proprietary aftermarket flush won't do any harm. But... Nine times out of ten a standard water flush will be more than enough.

Personally, I water flush and change the coolant every two years, but I use coolant with a three year life. It seems to be a perfect, trouble free balance to a maintenance task that if left to its own devices, can become a headache;).


Bring back Tapatalk !!!
 

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I am suspecting a blockage so would back flushing be useful and how would i go about doing that
What makes you think there is a blockage?

Lack of cooling is usually down to either a failing rad or a failing waterpump.

(failing rads will usually be due to lack of cooling ability from the external fins corroding and not from anything blocking internal coolant flow)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I,m not sure there is a blockage. I'm working my way through some possibles before I get to the water pump or radiator.
The car sits at 90 in traffic or around town and doesn't budge.
As soon as I get up to motorway speed 70+ it rises until it reaches 100 when the second speed fan kicks in and it comes back down to 90. It then just goes up and down slowly until I slow down again.
First speed fuse is ok and I've just popped out to change the cooling fan variable resistor.

The old one is not looking to healthy so I'll go for a run shortly and see if this has fixed it.
Cambelt was changed 14,000 miles ago along with the water pump so hoping its not that.
Rad looks in really good nik no corrosion on the outside visible anyway.
I'm only thinking a blockage as it started to do the heating up and cooling back down very suddenly on a journey last week which makes me suspect some scale or corrosion broke loose and jammed itself in a narrower section further down the cooling system.
I'll check back soon after I've been for a run with the new fan variable resistor.
Fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well unfortunately that hasn't fixed it still goes over 90 when the engine is labouring. The resistor needed doing anyway by the look of it so what next. Is there a test for a partially blocked system or do I have to go down a new rad route hoping it's that and not the water pump only to find out it was the water pump after all.
How easy or hard is it to change the radiator? How much are they? And what will an indi charge to fit?
Not sure weather to waste £40 of flush and coolant for it not to work or just bite the bullet and fit a new rad.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Forgot to add the heating is playing up I think. Plenty of freezing air but only cool/warm air when I turn it up to max. not sure if thats just down to this freaky weather where the outside temp is hotter than the max on the air conditioning system. If it should be getting hot this has to be related surely?
 

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As soon as I get up to motorway speed 70+ it rises until it reaches 100 when the second speed fan kicks in and it comes back down to 90. It then just goes up and down slowly until I slow down again.
I'm sure that isn't the fan. The forward motion of the car at 70+MPH will be far more than the fan could produce if it was actually running.
 

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Forgot to add the heating is playing up I think. Plenty of freezing air but only cool/warm air when I turn it up to max. not sure if thats just down to this freaky weather where the outside temp is hotter than the max on the air conditioning system. If it should be getting hot this has to be related surely?
Cold heating when set to "Max Heat" is usually the waterpump...... sorry!
 
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