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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know the name of that solution used to treat rust, you apply it and it turns blue-ish and hardens? What are its applications? I've found a bit of rust in my wheel arch and was wondering if I could use this followed by Hammerite?
 

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Hi

Its a mixture of tannic acid and other stuff but hammerite do one called Kurust which halfrauds do and im sure other car shops.

Remove loose rust then brush it on and all the rust turns into iron oxide thats stable to paint on

:thumbup: get ya brush out
 

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You could be thinking of Jenolite Jel but forget it. Grind the rust off until its all gone, leave no trace, apply a couple of thin coats of Etch Primer and allow to dry completely before applying body filler in thin coats, allowing to dry between coats. Sand back to the original shape then prime/base coat/ lacquer/ colour sand(1200# wet and dry) then buff(T Cut). Avoid Hammerite as well
 

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Does anyone know the name of that solution used to treat rust, you apply it and it turns blue-ish and hardens? What are its applications? I've found a bit of rust in my wheel arch and was wondering if I could use this followed by Hammerite?
The stuff that turns bluish (black where it converts rust) is Kurust and similar. It uses phosphoric acid to convert the iron oxide rust to iron phosphate which is inert and fairly impermeable. It does what it is supposed to, neutralises rust, but barely penetrates so only works if nearly all of it has been removed by physical means.
That's the main thing really. Get rid of all the rust you can, first. Don't just splosh Kurust on top of significant rust and imagine it will help.

Under a wheelarch there are better products than ordinary Hammerite paint although it does go on fine over phosphated steel without a primer. Having said that, I've had it last really rather well on exposed motorcycle parts and some previously-rusted ancient cast iron garden furniture, provided I use 3+ coats.

Hammerite now seems to own Waxoyl and now have an underseal range that includes Waxoyl, which should be better. Also look at Bilthamber and Dinitrol products.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks ppl. It's just a bit of rust on the inner aspect of the arch, above the driveshaft bits etc. Where there are clips for brake cables and what I presume is abs sensor cables etc. The inner aspect is coated in a tin like layer that can be peeled off, revealing rust.

Was thinking of using the converter and Hammerite to arrest it before it becomes 'structural'.
 

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I'd do it, but add Waxoyl or similar over the top. Kurust + Hammerite is working on my water-soluble oil cooler pipes for now...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks ppl, ended up buying kurust and Hammerite from half raids. Just want to get it sorted quickly before putting strong flexed uppers back on. To do it properly would need to remove brake pipes and there's no way I'm getting involved in that!
 

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I have some small rust patches starting on the leading edge of the roof where it meets the top windscreen rubber :ermm:
I think it needs the screen removed to sort it properly (and for real peace of mind) but I'm not ready to do that just yet - have to wait for the respray.

BUT to prevent it getting worse meanwhile who thinks it would be a good idea to do some rust removal with DEOXC gel and then follow with some zinc primer?

I don't ever drive the car in wet weather either, which will help I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have some small rust patches starting on the leading edge of the roof where it meets the top windscreen rubber :ermm:
I think it needs the screen removed to sort it properly (and for real peace of mind) but I'm not ready to do that just yet - have to wait for the respray.

BUT to prevent it getting worse meanwhile who thinks it would be a good idea to do some rust removal with DEOXC gel and then follow with some zinc primer?

I don't ever drive the car in wet weather either, which will help I guess.
You could, I would worry about what you can't see with the windscreen in place. I would get as much surface rust off as possible, use heat to dry out and evaporate any trapped moisture. One concern would be sealing in any rust that will propagate. But I'm not an expert by a long shot!
 

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You could, I would worry about what you can't see with the windscreen in place. I would get as much surface rust off as possible, use heat to dry out and evaporate any trapped moisture. One concern would be sealing in any rust that will propagate. But I'm not an expert by a long shot!
I'd certainly get any moisture out first, but frost certainly sell the stuff you're looking for, I bought some last year just to use after I'd wire brushed off all the rust I could. They also do a spray can version of similar stuff which is good for spraying box sections, dimitrol I think it was called.

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I'd certainly get any moisture out first, but frost certainly sell the stuff you're looking for, I bought some last year just to use after I'd wire brushed off all the rust I could. They also do a spray can version of similar stuff which is good for spraying box sections, dimitrol I think it was called.

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High Quality Tools and Equipment | Frost Restoration ??
 

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Hammerite with waxoyl underseal is good and thick and sticky to protect. The thick black stuff not the one that needs warming and spraying with a pump. I put some on my panda when new 7 years ago and it's still there. However, if the rust has started, as others have said, I don't think it's going to really help. It did a good job at hiding my terrible welding skills from the mot tester on the 156.
 

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I used both Hammerite and waxoyl underseal for years.

I found that Hammerite could chip and didn't have a lot of flexibility. I now use the por15 range which is flexible and is soft enough to absorb flying stones, it also adheres to the surface very well which is very important.

The black waxoyl stuff looks tough to penetrate but get a small amount of moisture underneath it and it will spread and spread without you noticing, then one day you see it bubble and start to peel at it and before you know it you are revealing large rusted areas that have been rotting away unseen and disguised by the underseal.

If anyone found a better alternative then I'll be interested to know........what is shultz?

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That's the place. Think you were after this

Granville Rust Cure - Heavy Duty Rust Converter (250ml) | Frost Restoration

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Cheers for that. I'm thinking about taking off the sill covers on the Spider to check for any of the brown peril!
That Frost stuff looks effective for surface rust though, I'll keep it in mind. It would probably work well on floorpan rust but looks quite thin so would probably end up running down your arm and dripping in your eyes etc....:grumpy:
 

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Cheers for that. I'm thinking about taking off the sill covers on the Spider to check for any of the brown peril!
That Frost stuff looks effective for surface rust though, I'll keep it in mind. It would probably work well on floorpan rust but looks quite thin so would probably end up running down your arm and dripping in your eyes etc....:grumpy:
Oh it is and it will, but I'd still do it before you put on your undercoat/primer. I certainty will when I get under the car in the summer, maybe use protective eye wear.

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Ive been gathering quotes to get my 156 V6 Veloce fully resprayed and the average is £3500 + vat :thinking:
The current value of the car in its present condition is only about 1500, after restoration probably about 3000 - 4000....
We certainly dont do this to make money do we??
Thing is, its now quite a rare car and although it's not a GTA, its still really pretty, with factory kit, low mileage, a lovely engine and interior and I want to preserve it. This is the "tipping point" in an AR cars life cycle and if it had been bought by a young kid and ragged, not maintained then this would probably have been its last year on the road. I hate to see lovely cars not looked after!
 
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