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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
There has been some discussion about the Motronic drive relay (the one with the diode) availability.

I was fiddling around today and tested some spare relays that I have, to see that they worked OK, including the four that sit under the parcel shelf.

Three of these are Bosch 0332014113 whilst the fourth, the drive relay, is 0332014112 .

My spares tested OK so I will keep them in the car in case of need. But I only had one of the 112 type and could do with a spare for my other car.

So I did a search and found these, that claim to be the same including internal diode at £12.99.

Description:
Landrover EFi Main Injection Relay
A new genuine Bosch relay for the fuel Injection.
Fitted with internal diodes.


EM Part Number:
LR - AFU2913L - (supersedes AFU2913)
Bosch No: - 0332014112


I have ordered a couple, will test them when they arrive and post the results.

Incidentally, I tested the resistance across the 85 and 86 terminals of the spare Motronic one and it measured about 770 Ohms which is a lot higher than SpiderSeries4 reported from testing his - ca. 77 Ohms, I think. The standard relays (...113) did have resistance of between 77 and 80 Ohms.

Obviously, when testing the Motronic relay with diode its important to test with the negative multimeter lead to the 85 terminal and positive to 86 terminal.
As the diode is a one way "valve" if you connect the multimeter probes the other way round the reading will be infinite.
 

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if you remember Nick, this was the problem I had last year when mine wouldn't start. It turned out that the wire from the coil inside had separated from the diode.

I spotted those you have ordered and SS4 said they are fuel relays for Land Rovers and suggested I should track down the aluminium one with the red stripe. It's odd though, as the Bosch part number is the same!

I eventually tracked one down but it cost me £38! Incidentally the Alfa part number is 7619302.

I would be interested to see how you get on with those you have ordered because if they work ok, then I may get one myself!

I managed to pull the wire around the coil on my old one to give it enough length to solder back onto the diode to keep as a spare.

Here's the inside of it showing the broken wire:
 

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did I say 77 Ohms?....sorry 'bout that! I meant 77 k.Ohms (thought I corrected that...........I remember telling bianco last year when he had his no start problem, that mine tested out at 590 ohms, so it must have been a typo....;)

Over here the S4 guys are indeed now buying the brown relay cited above, they say it works......so I guess it must.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, I remember that Tom, which was what prompted me to finally get round to testing some of the spare bits I have, although I'm sometimes a bit reluctant to disturb things on the car that are working in case they then stop working!

But anyway, I now know I have working spares of most of the relays and the ECU.
Interestingly the ECU I have from the manual spares car is identical to the one in the automatic. So I should be able to change the chip in the automatic to a Squadra Tuning one.

Dom, apologies, you might have corrected that figure, and I just remembered a figure from the first time round.

As I understand it (from my Wikipedia education:thumbs:) the diode acts to prevent current running back to the ECU when the electromagnetic coil in the relay is disengaged and produces some voltage. So providing these LR ones have a diode, as claimed, and have the same output pins they should be OK. But I will check that out with a multimeter and open one up to have a look when I get them.

As an aside, are the electric fan relays available? I couldn't see a code on mine.
 

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fan relay is an MP 2335 12v/ with combined 30Afuse.
I believe the AR number is 82461829
got my new spare on german ebay. (advertised as relay for lancia delta integrale!)
getting harder to find new, though s/h is easier (over here at least)
 

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did I say 77 Ohms?....sorry 'bout that! I meant 77 k.Ohms (thought I corrected that...........I remember telling bianco last year when he had his no start problem, that mine tested out at 590 ohms, so it must have been a typo....;)

Over here the S4 guys are indeed now buying the brown relay cited above, they say it works......so I guess it must.
When Dom sent me a relay to try, it measured at 77 k ohms. Let us now how it goes Nick. I think we will be buying up Land Rover fuel relays! :lol:
 

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Tom, I remember we went thru the diagnosis to get your S4 up and running!
I remember you mentioning back then that you had the S4 on a trickle charge (battery maintain), and I thought that probably was the cause the relay burnt out,

Well, since then, there have been several german alfa forum members with blown motronic relays, all left their batteries on a trickle charger over winter, all failed to remove the battery leads!
I know that many of the modern trickle chargers "instructions" expressly say "no need to remove battery cables, this will not harm modern electronics"........but that imo is bull:)
It harms S4s, mybe not super modern cars, but remember back when our cars were made they probably never even invented trickle chargers:)

always disconnect battery when charging. period.
 

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Tom, I remember we went thru the diagnosis to get your S4 up and running!
I remember you mentioning back then that you had the S4 on a trickle charge (battery maintain), and I thought that probably was the cause the relay burnt out,

Well, since then, there have been several german alfa forum members with blown motronic relays, all left their batteries on a trickle charger over winter, all failed to remove the battery leads!
I know that many of the modern trickle chargers "instructions" expressly say "no need to remove battery cables, this will not harm modern electronics"........but that imo is bull:)
It harms S4s, mybe not super modern cars, but remember back when our cars were made they probably never even invented trickle chargers:)

always disconnect battery when charging. period.
Yes, that's right Dom. It was the only thing that I could think of that may have done it. Very interesting to hear that this has happened to others!

I won't take that chance again. I invested in a battery cut out to disconnect the battery whilst it is standing and didn't need to charge the battery at all during the winter.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've been doing a bit of both. The one in France that gets left for several months has its battery disconnected and doesn't need any charging.
The one here I connect to a trickle charge if I am not using it for more than a week, and I don't disconnect the leads.
I did try the cigarette lighter connector for the charger but some of the dash warning lights came on so I didn't persist with that. As you say, Dom, perhaps these older cars are not designed for this type of charging.
Its a pain, though, having to reset the radio stations after disconnecting the battery.
 

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my radio/CD (Blaupunkt Munich) remembers presets after disconnecting the battery....only the radio clock needs resetting.

Then again I think my radio has a mind of its own! I couldn't turn it off today......even took off the faceplate..radio still on...then pulled the fuse (#5)....that then did it.

Put fuse back and it works fine.
Sometimes when I put the indicators on the antenne goes down a few inches and it 'mutes' (blinkers also on fuse #5)

I tell you, it is like Stephan King's "Christine"!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The relays arrived today and check out exactly as they should:

- resistance of 708 ohms measuring with -ve probe to 85 and +ve probe to 86.
- infinite resistance when trying the probes the other way round i.e. there is definitely a diode in there.

I opened one up for a look and they look to be high quality, as you would expect from Bosch.

Then the acid test - I replaced the one in my car with one of the new ones. It started and ran fine.
 

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thanks for that Anglo. Useful to know.

As an aside, I have always wondered why the inspection cover over the relays is so small and, well.... useless......if it was bigger and allowed quick access to all the relays back there, it would make a lot more sense;)

Dom
 

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Discussion Starter #14
have always wondered why the inspection cover over the relays is so small and, well.... useless
You're right, its not much use.

The only thing I can think is that it allows access to the fault code prompt - the red button on the Automatic car and, I think, the OBD socket on the manual car.
 

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The relays arrived today and check out exactly as they should:

- resistance of 708 ohms measuring with -ve probe to 85 and +ve probe to 86.
- infinite resistance when trying the probes the other way round i.e. there is definitely a diode in there.

I opened one up for a look and they look to be high quality, as you would expect from Bosch.

Then the acid test - I replaced the one in my car with one of the new ones. It started and ran fine.
That's great news! Also a lot cheaper than the Alfa originals (if indeed you can get hold of them) I think I'll be placing an order for a spare...

I reckon you are right about the reason for the small hatch. It's just there to check fault codes. My local specialist used it once to plug in his reader to tell me that my lambda sensor had gone when it failed the MOT on emissions. It's a pain to have to remove the whole decking panel to get to the relays properly!

By the way, does the inside of the relay look like the pic I posted of my failed relay?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I didn't take a photo but can do at the weekend. Its broadly similar, but the diode is tucked away a bit more neatly.

I'm glad you confirm the fault reader plug socket. I was looking for it in the Automatic and it doesn't appear to have one even though I'm certain my manual car does. The Automatic is a year younger so its a bit surprising. Euro versus US spec.?
 
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