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Discussion Starter #1
The kit has arrived from Highwood but without instructions, I phoned Chris but he didn't know as no one else had asked. I'm hoping it will be clearer when I offer it up to the car but just wanted to see if anyone could confirm before I start drilling holes.

The kit comes with a thick and thin spacer, I'm guessing the thick one goes on the inside to space out the ball joint and the thin one in the engine bay to reinforce.

The thick one has a section cut out what relevance is this.

Drilling the holes - does their position/orientation matter as I don't want to mess that bit up.

thanks
 

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just looking at the limited space you are working with in the thread below (I think describing the early mod option, drilling a bigger hole for the ball joint head to fit into)......
I'd guess the section cut out of the fat spacer, would allow you to screw in that inner bolt first, then slide in the fat spacer IN (so the ball joint head has a seat) then start the other bolt and tighten it all down.....no?

I'd guess the thin spacer is for the compartment strengthening side.
Alfetta.dk - Front suspension upgrade

I might be wrong but that is my feeling just looking at it all from here:)

Odd how people sell modification kits with no instructions though....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks very much both, Dom I think you're right about the cut out, makes sense anyway.

Its the position of the holes really but the link gives a good indication, deumila if you can get a pic from in there that would be great.

Chris did say he could ask the manufacturers for some instructions if I was stuck but it looks like I'll be able to fathom it out with help.

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My other question is the set up after its done, do I take it in for the 'standard' wheel alignment or do I need to take it some bespoke setting for them to do?
 

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Yep, the thicker one goes on the wheel side to "lift" the ball joint clear of the wheel arch. Once you start to fit the joint you'll see why the bolt hole is slotted - there isn't enough space to fit a completely closed bolt hole where the inner bolt ends up. The thinner spacer goes on the engine compartment side.

One issue is that you have to cut some of the thread of the ball joint strut - it's too long. I've done the mod on my GTV6 and 75 - interestingly, the fit up was different.

I recommend that you paint the spacers - they will rust very quickly if you don't (not a structural issue, just doesn't look nice.

I set mine up initially with the shock going through the centre of the upper control arm. After trying that for a while I adjusted the caster angle to give a more precise feel. Just make sure you have the same overall caster length on each side.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, yes when I've got home and offered it up it looks pretty straightforward, it's really tight in there though and no room for error!

Thanks for the cutting and painting tips too I hadn't realised that.

As for the set up, my shocks are currently set towards the front of the control arm so I might stick with that at first. I'm thinking now that instead of taking it in somewhere, I'm better experimenting and adjusting at home.

You say you wanted a more precise feel, I'm wanting this but also to reduce understeer so am I best starting with what I've got and getting progressively shorter until it feels right?

I've also bought the RS Racing 30mm arb kit so I'm hoping for big improvements!
 

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The big AR bar certainly cuts down the body roll but on the Alfettas and GTV6 it will eventually rip the anchorage points out of the body. My GTV6 failed and had to be re-welded. If you've got the time it's probably best to reinforce the area before the bar is installed. My 75 seems to be OK - the area looks to be a bit stronger than the Alfetta arrangement.

And put lots of grease on the drop link ball joints - they rust if you don't. :depressed:
 

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The big AR bar certainly cuts down the body roll but on the Alfettas and GTV6 it will eventually rip the anchorage points out of the body. My GTV6 failed and had to be re-welded. If you've got the time it's probably best to reinforce the area before the bar is installed. My 75 seems to be OK - the area looks to be a bit stronger than the Alfetta arrangement.

And put lots of grease on the drop link ball joints - they rust if you don't. :depressed:
jeez I hope Alex sorted that on mine dont like the sound of anchorage points being ripped
 

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The big AR bar certainly cuts down the body roll but on the Alfettas and GTV6 it will eventually rip the anchorage points out of the body. My GTV6 failed and had to be re-welded. If you've got the time it's probably best to reinforce the area before the bar is installed. My 75 seems to be OK - the area looks to be a bit stronger than the Alfetta arrangement.

And put lots of grease on the drop link ball joints - they rust if you don't. :depressed:
Yeah, think you're right there. My 75 has had a 29mm front bar on it for seven years and about 80,000 miles and it's fine but I've heard of problems with Alfettas. From memory, when the 75 and 90 were announced Alfa made quite a lot of the spot welds being much closer together throughout the whole car which made them stiffer than the 116 Giulietta and Alfetta.

You can get little rubber booties for rose joints but they're a right pain to fit. KY Jelly springs to mind for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The big AR bar certainly cuts down the body roll but on the Alfettas and GTV6 it will eventually rip the anchorage points out of the body. My GTV6 failed and had to be re-welded. If you've got the time it's probably best to reinforce the area before the bar is installed. My 75 seems to be OK - the area looks to be a bit stronger than the Alfetta arrangement.

And put lots of grease on the drop link ball joints - they rust if you don't. :depressed:
I was pleasantly surprised with the condition of the mounts so hopefully they'll last a while, I'm not planning on regular track days so they shouldn't get too much of a pounding.

Rubber booties makes you think of KY jelly eh Jim, is there anything else you'd like to share with the group? :biglaugh:
 

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Hi Simon, here are a few pics one either side in the arch and one from in the engine bay, you can see what happens if you don't protect the arm and the spacers, I would have thought Alex should have at least greased up the threads, but it was a couple of years ago, I think he added GTV6 torsion bars on mine along with the arb and 50kg rear RS Racing springs, I have to say it has eliminated a lot of the body roll. He also changed my shocks to Bilsteins B6's I think, and lowered the car 5mm, I really like how it drives compared to previously.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hi Simon, here are a few pics one either side in the arch and one from in the engine bay, you can see what happens if you don't protect the arm and the spacers, I would have thought Alex should have at least greased up the threads, but it was a couple of years ago, I think he added GTV6 torsion bars on mine along with the arb and 50kg rear RS Racing springs, I have to say it has eliminated a lot of the body roll. He also changed my shocks to Bilsteins B6's I think, and lowered the car 5mm, I really like how it drives compared to previously.
Thats really helpful, thanks for taking the trouble to take the pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well after a week or so of driving I can report that the handling improvements have been massive. Difficult to pin point which one as I did the caster arm mod plus thicker roll bar and a smaller steering wheel at the same time but I'm very pleased. I now have very crisp and direct handling, just what I was after.
 
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