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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:cheese: HAS ANYONE GOT ONE?

This B****** of a job is by far the most frustrating thing i have dealt with on the car since taking the thing apart.

With no access to the brake-end leavers, a melted old cable and 15minutes here and there to work on the car It's near enough driven me to insanity.

This is a plea for when I need to replace my cable really - as it will need replacing soon enough.

To allow for sufficient cable slack to fit the handbrake end I had to cut the outer sleave of the cable to reduce the outer run and reduce the tension between the brakes and the lever. I cut out around 8 loops to allow fitting, and it is now fitted working with good room for stretch in the level and adjustment.

If anyone on here doesn't own a Dremel(or knockoff dremel) i suggest you add it to your toolbox for the odd-fiddly-grinding disc jobs.

I can feel the look of disgust as some die-hard mechanics read this, but when your working out of a garden shed with the car on angle-iron ramps in the shared carpark it was the best i could do! :p
 
G

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you have my sympathy ;)

as far as i know, there isn't a secret

i've heard of folks that can change them without dropping the 'box, but i can't imagine how :confused:
 

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i have in the past changed a front caliper while engine was in the car, you need fingers like worzell gumage:D I can't remember if i disconnected the hand brake end inside the car from the lever then turn the steering wheel to get the track rod arm out of your way,when it did pop into place i couldn't believe that i had done it.
 

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Not easy But I have done them in the car.
Put the end one in first. Tjis should be relatively easycompared to the next one.
For the next one the slotted hole position in the caliper is critical. It must be positioned so that you can roll the cable into the slot.
Use a screw driver to leaver against the spring and compress it enough to start the cable in the slot and the spring in its seat. You can usually lever against the gearbox bridge that the cable goes through. You can then usually roll the cable into the slot and the sheath goes into its seat.
Drop the engine on the main centre mounting.

Ideally do it with the engine out.

rsfruitbat
 

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I remember that little nightmare of a job.. I don't think it's so difficult to lower the engine down or raise the rest of the car up after a few disconnections, etc and do the change that way.

Happy days though all the same..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Glad im not the only one with this anoyance.
Got home from work and the car is still where i parked it so looks like i have something worthy of an MOT at least.
 

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you have my sympathy ;)

as far as i know, there isn't a secret

i've heard of folks that can change them without dropping the 'box, but i can't imagine how :confused:
How about if I tell you that we could change them in under an hour?;)
(without a dremmel or cutting springs down:lol:)
 

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My trick was to remove the cable end from the handbrake lever, screw it right through the floor and unbolt the cable from the side of the gearbox casting. This should give enough slack to unhook the inner cable from the calipers without too much of a struggle
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I can't help but think I must have been making it hard for myself - I struggled enough being sat on the bell housing with a couple of sets of pliers!
 

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I remember doing this years ago and in frustration I levered open the U shaped bracket that held the cable locater in place on the driver side. Don't know how unclever a thing that was to do but it worked :lol: This then gave plenty of slack to release the other side.

Last time I done it I fully detached it from inside the car and didn't seem to have too much trouble.
 

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left the handbrake end disconnected then connected the first caliper. I then used string on the end of the cable whilst pushing the spring back with a long screwdriver directed the cable end into its slot. Sounds easy but it did take me about five or six goes before I managed to coordinate both hands and slot it in.
 
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