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hi can anyone help, my 75 runs about 3 mins and stops i can hear a relay clicking just below the coolent resovoir, battery fine , earths all fine on engine, charging etc, any ideas???:(
 

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the relay you are talking about, is it a big almost double sized one? if so it will be fuel pump relay and it certainly should not be clicking in and out, just once for on and again for off. Clearly the relay has power, but is the feed to the relay faulty? or is there just a build up of crud under the relay that is causing the problem.

HTH
 

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hi, my car has this same fault, but after the aa man spent an hour looking at it he suggests buying a new double fuel/injection relay. why would the coolent sensor cause this kind of problem?
 

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hi can anyone help, my 75 runs about 3 mins and stops i can hear a relay clicking just below the coolent resovoir, battery fine , earths all fine on engine, charging etc, any ideas???:(
Greetinga strong spirit:thumbs: !!! I recommend to check up presence of weight on the engine, and also presence of oxidation of plugs of the accumulator, if are oxidized to smooth out them and to grease. It is possible to throw simply an additional wire from the negative plug of the accumulator on the engine and to try to get the motor. If to not turn out, it is necessary to remove a starter and to check up its serviceability, believe, it is simple. The removed starter needs to be checked up, connecting it directly to the accumulator. But to all attributes that the wire of weight of the engine has fallen off is similar. I wish good luck. Write about results.:)
 

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the new relay arrived today? i could not wait to fit it! but to my disapointment, no change! the car will not start, if i run a live from the battery the fuel pump runs, i have also noticed that it is blowing a fuse in the fusebox inside the car, it is marked with a cigarette sign, i am really at a loss, and just want it running, as i am useing the wifes mini!! help help
 

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The colleague! Do not despond! I shall consult to the person, at it same as at you the machine, it can idea will throw, and so check up the gauge of position of a cranked shaft, the gauge of temperature which goes on the block of management of the engine, check up serviceability of the lock of ignition, check up also a spark on candles, connect a bulb to the pump, deduce it in interior and look, when you rotate a starter the engine, whether it burns, that is whether the petrol pump from the lock of ignition works. Still I can assume, that the block of management of the engine, well it already absolutely on an extreme case is faulty.
 

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thanks for your help, I think this must be a short of some kind as the fuse that keeps blowing has a pink and white wire to the rear of the fuse box if I put a large fuse in the interior light dims, I have disconnected the fuel pump and fuel relay to eliminate these and worked my way along the wire, but there are no bare wires or touching live to earth, going back to the original fault the car would drive fine then splutter and cut out, I would leave it for 20 mins and it would start again until one day nothing, it would seem that it is something breaking down rather than a short? Getting a migraine from looking at all the wires! In addition, how many pink wires do you need!
 

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i think it may be the coolant time sensor i replaced one of the coolant sensors, no change so i thought sod it id buy a new cts part number bosch 0280130214 but they are not available any more????? help
 

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i think it may be the coolant time sensor i replaced one of the coolant sensors, no change so i thought sod it id buy a new cts part number bosch 0280130214 but they are not available any more????? help
bosch 0280130214??? no no no:tut: if i right understand you this sensor on/off ventilator(cooler) radiator condicioner oder ventilyator(cooler)-he not guilt:tut: . Problem not in it! It at all has no attitude to malfunction. Here look here, in this manual http://alfactt.chez-alice.fr/download/05allum_demar_rech.pdf I think, on it it is possible for something to understand and try to understand a problem.
and say me please! have spark on sparkplugs when you spin crancshaft starter??? benzina go to tubes? electrofuelpump give 3-6 bars ??? check manometers? do you have ICQ6??? and make Make photos of a motor compartment and all electricians, the relay and other that I saw, that at you is under a cowl, specify those units which disturb you
 

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thanks for your help, I think this must be a short of some kind as the fuse that keeps blowing has a pink and white wire to the rear of the fuse box if I put a large fuse in the interior light dims, I have disconnected the fuel pump and fuel relay to eliminate these and worked my way along the wire, but there are no bare wires or touching live to earth, going back to the original fault the car would drive fine then splutter and cut out, I would leave it for 20 mins and it would start again until one day nothing, it would seem that it is something breaking down rather than a short? Getting a migraine from looking at all the wires! In addition, how many pink wires do you need!
Yes, the colleague, is such relay, with a safety lock, it completely is responsible for a feed, my friend-alfist(from state Rostov-on-Don) has told, that if it is melted off or with it something happens, the engine is not got! You think in a correct direction! It is not necessary to be afraid, eyes see, hands do! Remove the block of safety locks and closely study a condition of all the relay for malfunction, a smell, the melted off contacts. I understand, that wires-it a migraine, but it is necessary to study to understand the electrician! Success! Write about results of research! Excuse, has found out about the block and a pink wire today, casually!
 

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well some progress has been made the car now runs at idle only if i spray a little fuel in the breather on the plenum chamber and with the air flow meter disconected, as soon as i reconect it dies! i have sourced another unit fitted it and its just the same, i have replaced the double relay, the coolant time sensor, the temp sensor, i have checked the flap on the airflow meter and it still does not make the relay click or open, i dont seem to have any power to the throttle positon switch on the inlet body and also the blue injector at the back of the body i think this is a cold start injector.

you have all been great but i am baffled!
 

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Your car it is necessary diagnotic a computer! On availability of mistakes, I simply any more do not know what here to think :((( It is necessary to study manuals carefully
 

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hi all, ITS RUNNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it was the ECU, i have replaced so many things, i even stripped the wirring loom no change then as soon as i plugged in the ecu she fires on key idles runs purfect!! result! thank you to Alferno for all your help.
 

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URAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!:cool: its very strange!!! whats happend with him.... but 1 more of 20 year this may happend!!!! your auto not first!!!! although, here recently entirely, the block burnt on 75 2.0 TS in my friend from the adjacent state. We also for long broke head, it conducted computer diagnostics, and it showed that from the control unit there were no signals, generally none! Accordingly, there was no spark on the spark plugs, the current pulses were not given to the sprayers! It found proper block and was placed it, engine here was neglected : ) My congratulations, associate! Regards with all from [alfistov] from Russia. Welcome to us forum alfisti.ru • ??????? ???????? Transaxle (i`m there Vollos-Alferno) :)
 
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