The paranoia has kicked in... I just replaced filters and oil (Selenia WR 5W40), all four injectors were refurbed and the car is alive once again.
However, I still don't think it sounds quite right, especially on idle. I'm uploading two videos, one from outside and one from inside for you guys to hear at let me know your opinion. The car swirl flaps and EGR delete (hardware, no software touched yet).
I was referring to this video and the car sounds the same to me, but I would love a second opinion.
I'm suspecting that the hydraulic lifters might be playing up, but that's a really costly repair around here...
Yeah there are some metallic-punching sound. Well it could be anything: some injector, some lifter, pulley or internal because bad timming adjust (valve, piston compression too advanced). Inclusive simple software mapping if EGR-swirls are closed without remap idle-soi etc.
I would rule out the injectors (the injectors were refurbed so they're fine) or bad timing (new belts ~ 10k ago) as the car is running fine.
On the other end, the car doesn't consume oil or coolant, it's running strong right now.
I'll get the car remapped soon to remove the EGR and SWIRLS out of the equation.
Do you think the EGR or Swirls delete might cause this metallic sound?
It's possible because change combustion and sound but sincerely it is not my first suspicion.
DMF, oil pump and vacum pump can sound metallic too. Can start engine whithout aux belt to rule out all aux pulleys (alternator, a/c etc) and check metallic heater protectors.
Still working to solve problem and working through the list of jobs that should solve my 1.9Ti which is barely drivable at the moment. I'm looking for a guide or how to on checking and replacing the swirl valves. I have the black plastic type of inlet manifold and I'm not sure where the swirl...
I did see your video and I immediately called my mechanic as when he was doing the Swirls delete, he told me that two flaps were not in place, but not ingested by the engine (so, I was really close to having a bad bad day...), as far as I remember he told me they were still in the pipes, stuck somewhere and it was just a matter of time to get into the engine and do a big ass issue...
To be honest, all three videos here - mine, the random one from the engine sound and yours sound the same to my ears...
I'll drain some oil and try Liqui Moly hydraulic lifter additive as I don't want to overfill the oil.
certainly sounds like a hit on one cylinder, can you do the "metal-rod-to-the-ear" thing and isolate where it taps? Be careful of moving engine bits obviously
which bit of that soundscape are you talking about? The steady loud clicking or the more random ticks/crackles? In fact, I don't know which the video is trying to demonstrate either.
If I understand correctly, your mechanic said you have two swirls broken off and stuck in the inlet tracts in the head..I had one broken off and entered the engine, bending two valves. Another was stuck in the inlet tract. This is common, but whether the flap will stay there is unlikely. If he left it, it may well have gone through the port and into the engine - the airflow is extreme and it is a loose obstruction. It has to be removed. I could see it with a mirror and torch, but was unable to fish it out - though I didn't try very hard as I knew the head had to come off because one flap had entered the engine. The flaps are stainless so a magnet doesn't help, but a dollop of hot melt glue on the end of a piece of wire might work, especially if you have a borescope to see what you're doing. I didn't back then, but I do now - a perfectly OK Android phone plugin, for about £7 on eBay
My car was still starting and running OK, despite the damage.I went through the same hopeful stuff as you. I tried a load of Wynnes Hydraulic lifter treatment in the oil, and initially it seemed to make a difference. I was kidding myself. The rattle came and went, sometimes loud, at other times barely there. The injector correction factors were all over the place, so maybe I had a dud injector? I actually did - the injector on #3 had a nozzle damaged by swirl flap shrapnel. I also persuaded myself that maybe the crank pulley was knackered,but a new one made no difference.... the correction factors turned out to be mostly the system trying to compensate for low compression from 2 leaky valves on the damaged #3.
NB all the carbon on the stem, from the leaky seat. The previous owner had driven a few thousand miles with it like this.
I would get a compression test done if your mechanic left a loose flap in head
That's a really sad story... now, he specifically called me and told me they removed both flaps that were trapped in the inlet tracts! I triple checked and called him again to confirm that no swirl flaps were left in the tracts or anywhere and he confirmed that's not the case, all 4 were taken out of the car - 2 from the inlet manifold swirl regulator mambo jambo and two from somewhere in the tracts where they were stuck.
Now, I noticed lately a smell of gas, like burned diesel smell that would usually come out of the exhaust coming from the left side (my driver side of the car), during night time when I have my lights on, I can barely see a faint fog coming from the front part of the bonnet... I was youtubing exhaust manifold noise, ticks, etc. (Yeah I know it's dumb, but for now that's all I can do...), so I was thinking that maybe the exhaust manifold may need a bolt to be tightened or a new gasket or both?
Aha! That sounds and smells like a leaking injector seal, which can sound just like a tappet. Look for an accumulation of oil and carbon around where the injectors enter the head. Any that are messy are a probable culprit. New seal and seat cleaned or recut if necessary. Getting them out can be a bit of a sod, if they've been leaking, because of carbon build up.
It could be a manifold leak, though. Either the gasket, or connection to the turbo. Again. the high gas pressures can sound metallic.Check bolts are tight. If they are, needs dismantling and new gasket.
Neither are particularly difficult or costly jobs (for once).
I just finished my round trip 666 km = 5liters per 100 km.. - awesome!
Good news: When I climbed to the top of the mountain ~ 1300meters above sea level the car sounded just right (it was parked a bit to the left on a small slope... it was also quite warmer up there ~ 10 degree Celsius up!
Now that I got home and parked it on a flat surface, the damn ticking sound came back...
I'll change the damn manifold seal either way as I ordered it (7 euro )
I don't think it's an injector seal as there would be some soot or carbon around it and I don't see anything on the tops.
I have my bet with the mani now..., but it's quite interesting with the higher altitude and the sound. The moment I parked it, I went outside, I could hear it and it just stopped after like 5 seconds and it didn't return for the next 5 times I drove the car in the mountains.
Does anyone know if a higher altitude might have an effect on the pressure of the manifold?
well, in space no one can hear an Alfa scream......how high were you again? ;-)
I don't have a hypothesis, is interesting data though
5L/100km is literally double what I get, though I'm mostly in town currently (however, consumption may be higher because of faulty thermostat......sorting that tomorrow)
I've changed the crankshaft pulley - made no difference.
I've changed the oil (Fuchs GT1 5W40) and added Marvel Mystery Oil (which should've help with the lifters). - made some difference but it's still there.
When I start the car, there's no ticking, once it reaches 50 degrees it starts and goes between 50-60, then it disappears, unfortunately, it comes back between 70 and 90 degrees.
Next steps are:
1. Check compression.
If everything is well there --->
2. Open the valve cover (top end of engine) and change the hydraulic lifters and potentially the rocker arms (if needed).
3. Fingers crossed and hope for the best.
The fact that the sound comes and goes is driving me insane.
The car pulls strong, runs fine, no high fuel consumption or smoking.
I'll keep ya posted guys!
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