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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello fellow Music fans!

There are a lot of threads about stereo and car kits, and I thought I would tidy up the sheet I made for reference when I did mine and present it for others to reference, copy is attached.

Hopefully it will help others, I have added some pictures to help the pin outs make sense.

Paul

Update:
Version 2 - initial version posted
Version 3 - Correction to Alfa wording to show clearly Alfa ISO has +12v not IGN as discussed below
 

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AO Silver Member, 155 Lounge Winner 09
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thanks TP, very useful. i'm finally getting around to installing my alpine headunit. i still triple check with my multimeter just to be 100% sure.

just gonna customise the dashkit trim for a more integrated look.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmm, Custom... :cool:

I should have noted of course that everyone should check with a multimeter the connections for themselves as a disclaimer!

As I think it notes, I found that one of the pins in the phone connector is not where the workshop manual says it should be.

Hows your ICE coming along shiny_car? I need to add a sub next, but the RCA leads I laid when I put in the amp for the front doors have a broken channel on one side :mad: need to take the plugs off and hope its just a bad joint at one end.

Life without a sub is depressing... :rolleyes:
 

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troubleshooting an issue like that can be a pain. hopefully it's easliy sorted! :)

for lack of time, i haven't touched my ICE for many months :( . only this week, i've continued laying the foundations. 0awg powerwire is through the firewall into the cabin, along with some 8awg to provide power directly to the new headunit (will step down to 12awg wire). trial fitment of my alpine 9855R (older model; not the 9885) and some nutting out of how to mount it.

i want the plastic trim surrounding the alpine to be a nice smooth finish, like a 1-piece trim. that's instead of fitting the alfa dashkit piece, then the metal cage + headunit, then the alpine plastic trim. too piecemeal for me! :p instead, i'll first mount the headunit into the dash using some metal brackets, and not use the alpine metal cage. then i'll permanently attach (glue) the alpine plastic rectangular trim to the alfa dashkit trim, and 'mould' them into one smooth piece using bog and colour-matching. this will then fit over/around the headunit. pictures will tell a 1000 words, so i'll post updates when that bit's done! :D

:)
 

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AO Silver Member, 155 Lounge Winner 09
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TP, i continued the wiring today. despite poking and prodding as much as possible, i could not find the white 10-pin plug down below or anywhere. :(

perhaps the different markets our cars are for is why, not sure. i did find what look to be odd square plugs (one green, one grey) which i suspect are part of the satnav setup (eg: aerial). i might check my workshop manual.

anyway, i've got all the wiring connected as need-be, including an 'illum' wire from the cigarette lighter plug.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok Richard, Thanks for the advice, will have to put up with my FM transmitter. At least I don't have to waste my time trying to get the cable to work. Cheers! Heath :thumbs:
Sorry work bonkers lately, not much time for AO!

The advert does say "Not compatible with factory-fitted radios, even those originally manufactured by Blaupunkt" which would seem to indicate it would not work.

The plug must have line in left right and ground, as this is how the changer or iPod sound would come to the radio. However, the challenge is, will the head unit/radio reconise that there is anything connected, in other words line in could be playing away and there is no way to select that input.

In short answer I don't know. It *might* work, but with ebay its a throwaway buy I guess as no easy returns!

I would get an FM sender as you say, and not worry about it ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
TP, i continued the wiring today. despite poking and prodding as much as possible, i could not find the white 10-pin plug down below or anywhere. :(
Hmm, when I first went digging I found it down near heater vents in teh center at the bottom of the console, where gravity had taken it. It is a T into the HU loom though, so if you follow the loom down with your hand up the dashboard as it were through the HU opening you might be able to feel the T.

There used to be spec changes per market, but these days I thought that the costs of having two or more looms per model were greater than just having one design with all the wires in?

Sorry it was no of help, glad you found illum on the ciggy lighter, or phone charger socket as I call mine...
 

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Hello fellow Music fans!

There are a lot of threads about stereo and car kits, and I thought I would tidy up the sheet I made for reference when I did mine and present it for others to reference, copy is attached.

Hopefully it will help others, I have added some pictures to help the pin outs make sense.

Paul
Small error though, I think. You've labelled A7 as ignition... However, in actual fact, I think it's permanent +12 with Alfa....
It's whats always causing all the problems, there's no switched +12 on the Alfa iso block....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Small error though, I think. You've labelled A7 as ignition... However, in actual fact, I think it's permanent +12 with Alfa....
It's whats always causing all the problems, there's no switched +12 on the Alfa iso block....
Congratulations, you passed.

So, that table is a copy of the Alfa workshop manual, and its their name for it, its constant +12v you are right and the only ign is in the phone connector.

I will have to update the original (on home PC) and upload a revised version, as its a bit confusing to read you are right - note disclaimer above about always checking with multimeter though ;)
 

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This is excellent TP. We're about to ask our local place to fit a Parrot or similar to the GT and to give is an external socket for our Garmin (rather than going through the ciggie lighter. This should be very useful. Is A7 the only update?

Cheers:thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
This should be very useful. Is A7 the only update?

Cheers:thumbs:
Yes A7, although called ignition as I copied it off the Alfa wiring diagram, is the +12v constant to battery. Only location of ignition is on the phone connector. I did not get a chance to make the change last night, will do it soon. Everything else is accurate as far as i know BUT do check for yourself if you use my sheet - remember they are built buy Italians, to find two that are not quite the same may be no real shock :)

If you have the factory head unit (?) you can use the speaker input on the car kit connector to feed audio into the Alfa radio. Once gotcha with this, is that you need to use the config menu to enable the phone in (its muted by default) then you are off - confused me for a while. I had my Sony bluetooth kit wired this way when I had the Alfa unit installed.

What I did for my Garmin (great minds think alike ;)) was to tap into the feed to the cigarette lighter and run a cable behind the drivers side of the dash to another cigarette lighter socket. This is as I permanently fitted my Garmin cable and bracket when we went round Europe in the summer in the GT :D

The reason for doing it this way was: Radio +12 has 30A fuse, bit high for satnav, ciggy lighter is on separate circuit to radio, and also it comes on and off with the ignition, so the Garmin traffic reciever in my GPS would not run down the battery when the car stood for 2 weeks in Italy while we were away (I fitted Garmin plug under dash where new socket was, so it was not easy to unplug to avoid drain - wanted it to look like it was fitted while parked so I could just remove satnav). You could use the ignition feed on the phone connector as well but I am not sure what its fused at, and some aftermarket radio's pull the lion's share of the current down the ignition line not the +12v - depends on the brand.

Oh, and final confusion point, earth on phone connector comes from the radio, so if you unplug everything on the radio and are testing with a multimeter you will not get earth on the phone connector.

If you just want to add car kit with factory radio, phone connector is all you need - plug and play (after checking with multimeter) :D
 

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If I had a thankyou button I'd press it three times :D :D TVM for the excellent info!
 

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Hmm, when I first went digging I found it down near heater vents in teh center at the bottom of the console, where gravity had taken it. It is a T into the HU loom though, so if you follow the loom down with your hand up the dashboard as it were through the HU opening you might be able to feel the T.
never found it. :( no probs with your description, it all makes good sense. simply doesn't exist in my car. :rolleyes:

i had a problem with the alternative 'illumination' source-wire unfortunately. i thought i could use the wire for the ciggy lighter backlight, but it doesn't drop down to 0V with the lights off. instead, it floats close to 3V. only reason i can think why, is to provide some low level lighting during the day (?!). but does go to 12V with the lights on.

anyway, 3V was enough to activate the dimmer function on the alpine headunit, so it was 'permantly' dimmed, regardless of lights being on or off! to work around that, i have fitted a relay; from testing, the relay would not trigger with 3V, and certainly does with 12V. so, lights off, relay is 'open' and headunit illum wire sees 0V; lights on, relay is 'closed' and illum wire sees 12V and headunit dims. :cool: there may be other more elegant ways to achieve this, but i had all the parts lying around, so was easy for me to set up.

...just wish i could have found that white plug! :rant:

:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I reckon the build for the Australian market can't have the plug then?

I know you know what you are doing from the other posts and your ICE'capades so I am pretty sure you would have found it.

The 3v thing - maybe the lights are from the body computer not a relay? It could be part of the body computer failed bulb check, that works on resistance I believe.

If your putting in a relay, might be worth putting in a shunt diode to stop the EMF caused as the relay disengages and the magnet moves back through the coil back spiking the body computer - if it is connected this way and body computer is driving your relay now? It was recommended when driving relays of electonic connections on some of the ICE forums, I just soldered a diode over the relay contacts when I did my 156 and needed some relays, but as I did not need any relays in the GT I did not have to do it this time.
(I had a couple of crossover relays in 156 that would disconnect head unit from default connection to main car +12v and IGN and connect them to the second battery, so I could power the head unit while stopped without draining the main battery or risking current through the head unit as the main and second batteries where isolated and amps were hardwired into the aux battery - ah that was a mess that was under the dash, the good old days!).
 

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The 3v thing - maybe the lights are from the body computer not a relay? It could be part of the body computer failed bulb check, that works on resistance I believe.
i hadn't thought about that. though for the ciggy lighter backlight? :eek: that'd be 'attention to detail' by alfa! :p actually, i've had things up/running with it disconnected before (which would simulate a blown bulb and open circuit), and there was no error. so i'm unsure what all this means. :rolleyes:

If your putting in a relay, might be worth putting in a shunt diode to stop the EMF caused as the relay disengages and the magnet moves back through the coil back spiking the body computer
ah yes. it's the only relay that doesn't have a quenching diode installed! well, i've fitted another relay with one, and there's a 3rd that i will later install to trigger the amplifiers; recycling old parts, so two of the three have diodes soldered on.

i'll see if i can find a spare diode. gotta be one somewhere! :D

:)
 

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i don't believe these accessories are compatible without minor mods to the wiring. and even then, no guarantee, and depends upon the specific model of headunit (i don't know details). there's a few threads around with people claiming no success.

an 'alfa' iPod kit has been available in the past, but apparently no longer? it comprised an iPod interface cable and 1-DIN 'drawer' (cubby hole) to fit under the headunit and replace the cupholder/cardholder.

for BT, you may wish to invest in the good option of a Parrot BT kit (eg: CK3100 model).

:)
 
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