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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Did post in another thread but I've seem to have grown some more issues related to the original one. So would like some further guidance...

Car = 2006 Alfa GT 1.9JTDm, just hit 50,000. FSH. Recently had new glowplugs and a relay + oil service

Problems:
#1 - Idle would be pretty uneven and even make the car shudder very slightly
#2 - On long motorway drives there seemed to be more turbo lag below 2,000rpm or it'd stutter before the turbo wakes up and power comes on
#3 - Started up recently to drive to work, after about 200metres in first gear the power/turbo completely died, i was in first with my foot down, revs would barely climb so practically rolled 20metres with no engine (engine was on). Then it sorta went back to normal
#4 - Same day I was driving with the engine semi-fully warmed up and it'd hesitate when i put my foot down in gear, or it'd be a mini shudder before speeding up.

I dunno if it's the EGR valve that's clogged up because it's been a motorway muncher all its life, maybe the last 5,000miles its been 50/50 town and A road.
Also the turbo itself seems fine, barely any smoke, lots of power when the turbos spinning, MPG isn't too terrible either.
No warning lights on the dash either

Any guidance will be appreciated very much
 

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Could be either the EGR or MAF more likely the EGR .I would block it off as a matter of course its a bloody pain in the butt and causes loads of on going problems .Block it off no more hassle
 

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Problem 1 points to MAF
The rest look like either ERG or VNT.

Unplug the MAF and see how it goes, if no worse then the MAF needs replacing if a lot worse then MAF is okay.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the advice, I'll try to unplug the MAF.

Doesn't blocking off the EGR cause an error to pop up though? or can you get semi-blanked EGR things?
 

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Does your GT have swirl flaps? Check now......
You are right, blocking off the EGR and doing nothing else will raise a fault. Yes it would be ideal to delete the EGR but that requires someone playing around with the ECU, I have no idea how much this would cost and it would be useful to have an indication from those who have had this modification done (or someone who can do it) to share that info and any other tweaks that should be done at the same time :thumbs:
The pre-EGR gasket that limits flow to the EGR (that you can pick up on ebay) brought a fault up on my 147 that was replaced with the genuine modified/later type Fiat gasket that is fitted between EGR and inlet manifold. There has yet to be a fault on my car with that fitted but, amongst other things, I have fitted a new EGR.

On your car I'd check the vacuum pipe to the turbo actuator and boost control valve very carefully.
 

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Thanks for the advice, I'll try to unplug the MAF.

Doesn't blocking off the EGR cause an error to pop up though? or can you get semi-blanked EGR things?
Early diesels throw an error but later ones are usually okay - not sure when the switch over occurs. Even using a restrictor plate will not help if the ERG is not closing properly. Deleting it also works but it needs to be closed up before this will work.

You can get get the ERG checked using the diag software, the other thing to check is the 3mm vaccum line that operates the VNT if this is holed then the turbo does not behave properly and you loose power.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
How do I check if it has Swirl-Flaps?

And any chance there's a photo pointing out the boost pipe i need to check?
 

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2006 model unlikley to (my 2007 model does not) - in fact I am not sure that any GTs got this engine, but I am prepaired to be corrected.
 

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How do I check if it has Swirl-Flaps?
To find if yours has swirl flaps take off engine cover (undo 3 x 10mm bolts and give engine cover a 'tug' to remove). Look at the back of the engine, behind the glow plugs, you'll see the inlet manifold. What you're looking for is a thin metal rod/arm connecting four black 'round things' in the top of that manifold...... if the rod/arm is not there and neither are the round things then you don't have swirl flaps and it's one to take off the list of possible causes.

Like I said earlier, I'd look at turbo actuator/boost control pipework - that's where I would start to be honest.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don't remember seeing the metal rod thing while fitting EGR blank, so don't think it's a swirl-flap intake. which brings me onto...

Cleaned out the EGR & fitted a partial-blank to it. Made the car run a fair bit better, idle appears to be smoother, power delivery is sharper. But it's still not perfect, there's a minute delay before the turbo kicks in, and turbo-lag seems more pronounced in 3-6th at the 1400-1600RPM mark.

I've bought a new air filter and going to clean the MAF while I fit the filter. However I'm still unclear about the boost pipes location, is there a photo or are they pretty big pipes/hard to miss?

EGR blank / partial blank should be a mandatory buy for JTD owners by the way!
 

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The turbo actuator/boost control pipework is easily found.
With the car properly jacked up and on axle stands get underneath it with the undertray off. Look at the nearside front and find the airbox, on the airbox you'll see a cylinder type affair (bolted onto the airbox)which has two small pipes coming out of it. Replace both those pipes or, at the very least, check them both very carefully for damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Checked the tiny control pipes, seemed fine/nothing obvious. Checked the turbo hoses themselves. all good, only anomaly i found was some oily residue on some doodad under the nearside-rear corner of the engine cover. pic:



Seemed fresh. underneath the car there was a drop or two of the same residue on the lower turbo hose, again fresh after running the car.

Should I jsut give it to a garage or anything else I can check? Going to clean the MAF and check the panel filter now

Thanks again for your help, hugely appreciated
 

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change lower turbo pipe for a silicone one Auto lusso supplies them about £65 delivered worth it .Mine looked ok no holes but was covered in oily stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #14
change lower turbo pipe for a silicone one Auto lusso supplies them about £65 delivered worth it .Mine looked ok no holes but was covered in oily stuff
It's oil dripping down from something up-top, not from the hose itself. Going to disconnect/clean the MAF and see whats what. If not I'll just give it to my local alfa specialist (Waterfall Garage, Bridgend) and see what they come up with. I'll post up the issue for future reference
 

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My '99 156 JTD 2.4 suddenly had lost all the power, I couldn't even move the car idling on first gear, and had to rev up to 2500rpm to move. The EGR was blanked..so no doubts about it.
Normally, releasing the clutch without care at idle speed, would make the car move fast and crunch the neighbour's car easily , it has a lot of torque! Now it was like if the engine was dying while releasing the clutch slowly.
The problem was the MAF. After getting a friend's MAF for testing, the car instantly got the high torque again.
Th Mechanic said that the MAF was reporting an insane air mass. He said it was reading 6.000mg of airflow instead the usual 450mg. So the ECU was injecting a lot of fuel, making the burn too rich and lossing power, and diesel!
Sadly the turbo broke up 2 days after...damn!
Sorry for my bad english. I have very poor grammar about motors even in my mother language! :p
 

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Discussion Starter #16
My '99 156 JTD 2.4 suddenly had lost all the power, I couldn't even move the car idling on first gear, and had to rev up to 2500rpm to move. The EGR was blanked..so no doubts about it.
Normally, releasing the clutch without care at idle speed, would make the car move fast and crunch the neighbour's car easily , it has a lot of torque! Now it was like if the engine was dying while releasing the clutch slowly.
The problem was the MAF. After getting a friend's MAF for testing, the car instantly got the high torque again.
Th Mechanic said that the MAF was reporting an insane air mass. He said it was reading 6.000mg of airflow instead the usual 450mg. So the ECU was injecting a lot of fuel, making the burn too rich and lossing power, and diesel!
Sadly the turbo broke up 2 days after...damn!
Sorry for my bad english. I have very poor grammar about motors even in my mother language! :p
Thanks for the reply, yeah I think the MAF is at fault, but not completely broken. I unplugged it, car ran fine/as normal. But the symptoms weren't as severe as yours. So hopefully a blast with Carb-Cleaner will cure it. Hope yours got fixed!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update:

Disconnected the MAF, cleaned it out with carb cleaner (used an entire spray-can till the stuff coming out of it was clean), let it dry off properly. Refitted. But no real difference...

Car has a bit more pull (st 1500-1600 rather than after 1600-1700), but still a lumpy idle, and i've noticed at startup, there's a fairly strong smell of diesel coming from the back of the car (100% exhaust outlet). Co-worker commented that it smelt very rich. It's also pretty smokey when i put my foot down, not black/blue. just grey. (doesn't use coolant/oil etc)

Safe to assume the MAF is dead?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I did test the EGR, the little push-rod thing inside worked fine and it seems to work as it reacted to being cleaned too. But i'll check it out

(mines the 1.9 M-Jet btw, CF4 maf i believe. 2006)
 

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Update:

Disconnected the MAF, cleaned it out with carb cleaner (used an entire spray-can till the stuff coming out of it was clean), let it dry off properly. Refitted. But no real difference...

Car has a bit more pull (st 1500-1600 rather than after 1600-1700), but still a lumpy idle, and i've noticed at startup, there's a fairly strong smell of diesel coming from the back of the car (100% exhaust outlet). Co-worker commented that it smelt very rich. It's also pretty smokey when i put my foot down, not black/blue. just grey. (doesn't use coolant/oil etc)

Safe to assume the MAF is dead?
It is now that you've used carb cleaner to clean it!
The ONLY thing you should try to clean your MAF with is IPA, carb cleaner leaves a residue when it dries which will distort the sensors ability to read air mass and temperature...
 
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