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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

How much of a nightmare (or not) is it to change the handbrake cable in the 75?

It all looked fine when we did the rear caliper, disc and pad change but I don't think the cable is working as it should. I know, I know, should have changed it at the same time. I know how it all comes apart at the caliper end but want to know how much of a pig it is to route it through to the handbrake lever.

I can't remember, without having the car on a ramp.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Yes it is a bit of a pig but not impossible

I changed the handbrake cable on my GTV6 recently because the adjuster at the calliper end was rusted solid. I managed to snap the cable which I had been trying very hard to avoid!
My advise is to get the car as high as you can to give better access. You will need to remove the centre exhaust section followed by the heat shield and detachable cross member. Then detach the bolt connecting the gear lever to the linkage rod.Probably a good time to replace the rubber boot at the base of the gear lever too. I also removed the bolts securing the cross member (below the clutch housing) and supported the transaxle with a trolley Jack.This was because the cable was stuck on top of the clutch housing where it had worn a groove in the alloy! Also you will need to release the cable from the bracket attached to or by the rear anti-roll bar mounting on the near side.
You can then undo the nut and cable adjuster from the O/S calliper and work it back towards the gear lever. At the front it is held with a split pin. The new cable is pretty rigid so it's not the most cooperative of things and is like wrestling a snake (not that I have so far) will go in eventually. Adjustments should only be necessary at the calliper end.
Not sure if this is helpful and maybe you have already done it! I sourced a new boot from EB Spares and the Cable from the Highwood motor company.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for that. Sounds like a 'painful' job. The cable looks to be in very good nick. It has been replaced during my ownership (although a few years ago now). I know the adjuster is free so, now that everything is adjusted and settled down, it may just need some re-adjustment to get it working properly. There is an awful lot of travel with the handbrake and once we'd replaced all the rear brake elements and set up the handbrake it was all good. It passed its MOT but the tester said that the arms on the calipers were rotating/moving quite a bit. So, with a bit of fettling and adjusting, I am hoping we'll get it back to normal before trying the replacement option. The rear brakes are a fiddly old set up!
 

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Good news!

You are welcome and it does indeed sound as though the pads need to just bed in a bit. The handbrake cable is really well protected under there so they don't give much trouble. The rear brakes are fiddly as you say to get right. Great to here it passed the MOT ok and they should improve once they've bedded in properly. The handbrake always has a long travel so that in itself is not a problem. We found by jacking the car up with the rear wheels off the ground it could be run (very carefully!) with a bit of acceleration followed by gentle braking) to bed the pads in a bit and tweak the adjusters to make sure the pads were not dragging on the disks. I also had a tool made as I don't have the factory one for the outside adjuster nut/allen screw. Just a 17mm socket cut down and welded to a short bar. Having this does help but still a bit awkward. It doesn't sound like an issue with the cable so I would indeed only go down that route if you absolutely have to!
 
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