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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have the details for doing the 4 wheel alignment with Bilstein B12? (The local shops are always "nervous" about doing lowered cars..)

It's a 3.0 24V V6 automatic.
 

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Hi, perhaps you could contact Alfa independent specialists in the UK to ask if they can help, hope you get it solved soon.
I might try that, but I am also a little weary about asking a business for help, as I am not going to them for the actual labour. (I am in Denmark...)

That said, it does feel like it's driving perfect as is, so I am in no hurry to have it done :)
 

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Wow, does that make the ride rather harsh and noisy? I have 17” super sports on 2 cars and looking for a set of 18” ti alloys for the 3.2 and 18” wheels were concerning me especially on the lousy wiltshire roads, pot holes abound.

Our roads here in Denmark are fairly good. Pot holes is not a favourite on 19’s :)

There is alot more comfort on my 17” winter wheels, but I love the tight/firm feeling on the 19’s. But to be fair, it’s 90% for the look of it...
 

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Nice, I guess you don't by chance have the alignment details?:wink_org:
I'm not convinced at traveling from Spain to Dublin for doing it :hehe:
David you could always call Gerry at
0035318386567

Fair play to me:jester:
 

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Certainly for the front, “point the wheels straight ahead on every Alfa” was the advice from my local independent. There was one exception, but I don’t have one, so I’ve forgotten what it is. My 166 is running KWs, lowered to approximately Ti spec, and the fronts are 0 degrees - handles well and the tyres are wearing evenly and slowly. Which is annoying because I want to put the Ti rims on it, but I’m using up the 17” rubber the car came with first.
 

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Nice, I guess you don't by chance have the alignment details?:wink_org:
I'm not convinced at traveling from Spain to Dublin for doing it :hehe:
I don't have the specifics, but as I understand it, the fronts are easy enough and there is capacity in the cambre and toe in/out to accomodate the lowered springs (not sure if the lowering effects the caster and if that's adjustable).

The back requires the subframe to be dropped and then the upper mouting brackets can be moved (pretty much to their maximum) in order to straighten the camber on the rear wheels (again, this is for the Eibach Pro Kit springs).

If you felt up to it, you could always book the car in with Gerry around early May and then take it for a spin at the annual Ti Auto's track day just outside Dublin.

:driving:

V.
 

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I don't have the specifics, but as I understand it, the fronts are easy enough and there is capacity in the cambre and toe in/out to accomodate the lowered springs (not sure if the lowering effects the caster and if that's adjustable).

The back requires the subframe to be dropped and then the upper mouting brackets can be moved (pretty much to their maximum) in order to straighten the camber on the rear wheels (again, this is for the Eibach Pro Kit springs).

If you felt up to it, you could always book the car in with Gerry around early May and then take it for a spin at the annual Ti Auto's track day just outside Dublin.

:driving:

V.
I thought the front camber wasn't adjustable? There isn't any adjustable part?
I did that on the rear, it ended with about negative 0.3 degrees on each wheel (instead -2º before).
However the rear became pretty much unstable after that, it tends to go away when the road inclination changes, can't go just straight.
The alfa specs says between 1-1.5º negative,maybe it's too straight?
All the bushes are new, also have new Sachs shocks, just 5000miles on them.
Maybe the springs are tired, I feel the bottom heavy and it rolls a lot on corners. On bumps or when slamming the brakes it holds on much,much better that with the old shocks, where the front bottom would even touch the road when braking hard.
That's why I'm thinking on mounting the eibachs.
I guess driving with totally knackered shocks have stressed the springs.
 

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Certainly for the front, “point the wheels straight ahead on every Alfa” was the advice from my local independent. There was one exception, but I don’t have one, so I’ve forgotten what it is. My 166 is running KWs, lowered to approximately Ti spec, and the fronts are 0 degrees - handles well and the tyres are wearing evenly and slowly. Which is annoying because I want to put the Ti rims on it, but I’m using up the 17” rubber the car came with first.
For me, what I've been told from someone who had wheel wear and weird rear end behaviour, said that it drove perfect with 0.05º toe-in on each front wheel and 0.10º toe-in on each rear wheel.
I haven't tested yet, but I'll do that when my front tires are done. Next month probably.

He showed me three different alignment, done on different workshops. This was ok, said, showing those specs I've just written.
Then other workshops tried to be cool, telling that they could make the tire wear a lot lesser. Although it was pretty good already, about 20K miles!
Then they started to play with the toe in and the experiments ended with wheels wearing after 5K miles, or the rear bottom going nuts, unable to drive straight.
 
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