Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
:p Any of you boys know anything about Alfa 164 hubs fitting onto a 155? I want to convert to 5 bolts per corner, due to various brake and engine modifications.

The parts CD pictures look pretty simmilar, and I know fiat don't want to make two simmilar parts if they can avoid it? Any ideas. I know I could redrill the original hubs but the 4 into 5 on the same 98 pcd may cause some weakness problems.

Dom B
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,242 Posts
The 164 3.0 ltr had the 5 hole hubs. I'd try and buy one from a breakers and having a go. Like you say, the rest of it may be identical to the 4-hole (2.0 ltr) hub.

Ralf S.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Cheers Ralf,

I guess the only way to check and measure a hub, is to get one in my hand.

I think there is an online 164 scrapper [email protected] or something, i shall give that a go.

Dom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,808 Posts
sadly they are not the same at the rear as you can see in the pics
But the front hubs are interchangable between 155, 145, 146 and 164
Perhaps you could get an engineering company to machine up a new set of rear hubs for you

san
 
P

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
What about 156, 147 or GTV - you could check these also for fitment at the rear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,808 Posts
Pascs said:
What about 156, 147 or GTV - you could check these also for fitment at the rear.
The 145/6 and the 155 hubs are basicly the same thing with the four bolt fitment

156-147 and GTV use different stub axle and hub setups and according to the parts CD are not compatable

Whether they could be machined to fit a 155 stub axle I don't know, but would be interested to see

san
 
P

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Might be easier to weld up the 155 rear hub and redrill it to take 5 stud.

There are spacers which convert 4 stud to 5 stud or you could use 5 bolt wheels on the front and 4 bolt wheels on the back :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well i reckon if i use the 164 hubs on the front, where the power delivery is important (3.0 24V V6 going in :cheese: ), and redrill the rear hubs for now as these do not directly resist torque. I do not think I need to weld up the rears, as one of the holes can already be used, both being 98PCD (4 and 5 bolt) and the other holes can sit between the others. I drew the spacing on a CAD package and although the holes become gradually closer by the 4th hole, there is still enough meat for a fair job.

At least I would be able to use one set of wheels, until i get something better sorted at the back. After all when the rear wheel bearings go the whole hub needs changing anyway.

Cheers guys
Dom B :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,808 Posts
Dom B said:
After all when the rear wheel bearings go the whole hub needs changing anyway.
when you take the hub off to re-drill it you could check the state of the barings at the same time. I don't think that rear wheel barings are a weak point on 155s

san
 
W

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
sanitary said:
when you take the hub off to re-drill it you could check the state of the barings at the same time. I don't think that rear wheel barings are a weak point on 155s

san
Err.....I wouldn't be too sure of that. Both me and Speedy have replaced the rears :rolleyes:

Perhaps its just they are now old enough and with enough mileage to start needing replacements?

wrinx
 
P

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
If you are going to take the rear hubs off to redrill them then why don't you weld up the old holes at the same time – it won’t take long to weld up or are you thinking that if you don’t weld then you have the option for 4 stud or 5 stud wheels, and why not replace the bearings while your at it.

Then you don't have to worry about the rear and can concentrate on getting the front nicely sorted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,808 Posts
wrinx said:
Err.....I wouldn't be too sure of that. Both me and Speedy have replaced the rears :rolleyes:

Perhaps its just they are now old enough and with enough mileage to start needing replacements?

wrinx
I've not noticed that this has been a particular subject on the forum unlike belts or lambda sensor and as he will have to take the hubs off the car its a good time to check the barings

BTW at what milage did you have to replace the barings/

san
 
M

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Mine were replaced at 70000miles (previous owner) and again at about 90000 (me).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
This is what the hubs will look like going from 4 to 5 holes without welding up. I think there is enough metal left. :D

Dom B
 
W

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
About 80k one side and 105k the other :D

Speedy's were about 140k at a guess.

So anything from 70k plus seems about right. btw....its usually the nearside that goes first ;)

wrinx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,651 Posts
wrinx said:
Err.....I wouldn't be too sure of that. Both me and Speedy have replaced the rears :rolleyes:

Perhaps its just they are now old enough and with enough mileage to start needing replacements?

wrinx

Er i have`nt changed me REAR wheel bearings yet :confused: :confused: and AFAIK they are the original`s(nothing mentioned on the service history printout i got) and have done 160,000 so far :D but i have changed the rear axle bearings @140,000 perhaps this is where the confusion lies :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
T

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Dom B said:
This is what the hubs will look like going from 4 to 5 holes without welding up. I think there is enough metal left. :D

Dom B

Dom,

I wouldn't bother if I were you for two reasons:

1. If you carry out said modification to your hubs they will be dynamically unbalanced and therefore they might vibrate themselves to pieces due to metal fatigue (cracks will appear at a point where the metal is weak and these will propagate over time and lead to complete failure of the hub). Think of how bad a car feels if it's wheels are not balanced properly even if they only need a few small weights in the right place; if you start taking complete lumps out of the hub you're going to suffer considerably more vibrations.

2. Guys with Delta's tuned to 330hp have never had the need to go from 4 to 5 stud so I don't see why you might. If you're after keeping your engine relatively reliable you won't squeeze more than 300hp out of it thus you really should save your pennies and spend them elsewhere.

Hope this helps,
Taz.
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top