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Hi all,

I thought I will share an issue I had recently with my 159 2.0 JTDM.
One day, driving on a motorway I was getting ready to overtake, so downshift and foot to the floor. As the revs go to around 4000 the engine light came on and the car went into a limp mode. Not good!!
After running diagnostics software I found an error code P2563 Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance, means nothing to me :(
After doing some googling I decided to first clean EGR valve, but sadly couldn't find a guide on how to do it, and someone on this forum even said that it's a faf as it's very different from the 1.9 and 2.4 engines and it's hard to get to. It's true, the EGR is different and it's a bit more hidden, but it's absolutely easy to get out and clean.
The EGR is located just under the coolant reservoir and to the left. You'll have to take the engine cover off and look behind it. The valve is just under the metal water pipe (photo 2 and closer loook on photo 3).
It's the plastic box with red(or maybe orange) plug attached to it (photo 4).
It's held in place with 2 torx T27 screws. One on top and one underneath the valve. You can't really see them, but you can find them easily with your fingers.
I used torx from my small sockets set with a 10cm extension for the top screw and 5cm extension on the bottom screw.
Before you undo them though, you may want to unplug the valve first. I didn't do it and was struggling to unplug it with floating valve.
Also, when you undo both bolts the valve may not want to move. It's probably because it's so dirty, the soot is keeping it glued to the engine. I started to doubt myself and was thinking there must be another bolt, but after a few wiggles it managed to free it. It was pretty dirty, bot not blocked as much as I thought (photo 6)
IMPORTANT, be careful when you're extracting the EGR from the engine as there is a thin gasket/ring inside. You don't want to loose it. I got mine out and gave it a good clean in EGR cleaner(photo 7)
After cleaning the EGR (photo 8) putting it back was pretty straight forward.
First goes the ring, then the EGR and 2 bolts.
After putting the valve into the engine, it was easy to put the bolts in, as they go quite deep into the EGR body and are thinner at the top to guide into the thread easily.
I tightened it and reconnected.
This took me about an hour, but it included all the research on how the EGR is mounted to the engine and cleaning.

This, however, didn't solve my issue with the P code. To sort that out I had to also clean a MAP sensor, which was the original cause of the issue.
I don't have any photos from that, but it's super simple. You take the engine cover off, locate the sensor. On my engine it's in the middle of the intake. It's held with one torx T25 screw, but also there is a clip holding it in place. Unfortunately I broke mine off :(
You just need to be very careful when taking the sensor out. It has a rubber o-ring seal which makes it sit quite tight in the slot. Just be patient and with small wiggles you'll get it out. Don't rush it.

My sensor was covered in soot and carbon and there was no way it could read anything. After giving it a good clean with the EGR cleaner and resetting the errors the car has been driving beautifully. Revs all the way up and it feels more nimble than before the surgery, but I guess it responds quicker to the changes of throttle now.

Just make sure you connect the MAP sensor after you mount it back in. I forgot to do it and thought I killed my car. Starts and drives, but no power and the boost dial is solidly on 0. Small thing, but scared me a lot!!

Hope this will come in handy to you guys. If you would like more detailed photos just let me know. There are restrictions on photo size and how many I can upload.

Sorry for the long post and have a great day :)
 

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That's a great description! Same happened to mine but, since I had the EGR electronically deactivated a while ago, I only had to clean de MAP sensor. Totally different car after that and the turbo was much responsive


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Thank you very much. I was searching just for that. I already changed MAP sensor as new one was only 17eur. Need to clean egr as i got fault code and some struggling at 2300rpm. And I broke that clip for MAP too.
 

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Hi all,

I thought I will share an issue I had recently with my 159 2.0 JTDM.
One day, driving on a motorway I was getting ready to overtake, so downshift and foot to the floor. As the revs go to around 4000 the engine light came on and the car went into a limp mode. Not good!!
After running diagnostics software I found an error code P2563 Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance, means nothing to me :(
After doing some googling I decided to first clean EGR valve, but sadly couldn't find a guide on how to do it, and someone on this forum even said that it's a faf as it's very different from the 1.9 and 2.4 engines and it's hard to get to. It's true, the EGR is different and it's a bit more hidden, but it's absolutely easy to get out and clean.
The EGR is located just under the coolant reservoir and to the left. You'll have to take the engine cover off and look behind it. The valve is just under the metal water pipe (photo 2 and closer loook on photo 3).
It's the plastic box with red(or maybe orange) plug attached to it (photo 4).
It's held in place with 2 torx T27 screws. One on top and one underneath the valve. You can't really see them, but you can find them easily with your fingers.
I used torx from my small sockets set with a 10cm extension for the top screw and 5cm extension on the bottom screw.
Before you undo them though, you may want to unplug the valve first. I didn't do it and was struggling to unplug it with floating valve.
Also, when you undo both bolts the valve may not want to move. It's probably because it's so dirty, the soot is keeping it glued to the engine. I started to doubt myself and was thinking there must be another bolt, but after a few wiggles it managed to free it. It was pretty dirty, bot not blocked as much as I thought (photo 6)
IMPORTANT, be careful when you're extracting the EGR from the engine as there is a thin gasket/ring inside. You don't want to loose it. I got mine out and gave it a good clean in EGR cleaner(photo 7)
After cleaning the EGR (photo 8) putting it back was pretty straight forward.
First goes the ring, then the EGR and 2 bolts.
After putting the valve into the engine, it was easy to put the bolts in, as they go quite deep into the EGR body and are thinner at the top to guide into the thread easily.
I tightened it and reconnected.
This took me about an hour, but it included all the research on how the EGR is mounted to the engine and cleaning.

This, however, didn't solve my issue with the P code. To sort that out I had to also clean a MAP sensor, which was the original cause of the issue.
I don't have any photos from that, but it's super simple. You take the engine cover off, locate the sensor. On my engine it's in the middle of the intake. It's held with one torx T25 screw, but also there is a clip holding it in place. Unfortunately I broke mine off :(
You just need to be very careful when taking the sensor out. It has a rubber o-ring seal which makes it sit quite tight in the slot. Just be patient and with small wiggles you'll get it out. Don't rush it.

My sensor was covered in soot and carbon and there was no way it could read anything. After giving it a good clean with the EGR cleaner and resetting the errors the car has been driving beautifully. Revs all the way up and it feels more nimble than before the surgery, but I guess it responds quicker to the changes of throttle now.

Just make sure you connect the MAP sensor after you mount it back in. I forgot to do it and thought I killed my car. Starts and drives, but no power and the boost dial is solidly on 0. Small thing, but scared me a lot!!

Hope this will come in handy to you guys. If you would like more detailed photos just let me know. There are restrictions on photo size and how many I can upload.

Sorry for the long post and have a great day :)
Did you have to move any hoses / cables to get at the bottom bolt ? I know this is a while ago but i'm struggling to get access to the bottom bolt on the EGR valve ..
 

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No need to remove anything except engine cover to get the EGR out and have access to both bolts...


.…………….I also broke the MAP clip....they go brittle with time.....does not seem to make any difference...its still held solidly in place with the single bolt.
 

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Did you have to move any hoses / cables to get at the bottom bolt ? I know this is a while ago but i'm struggling to get access to the bottom bolt on the EGR valve ..
Maybe remove glowplug relay
Thanks .. I ended up just undoing battery wire clips .. One last question whilst i have it out .. Is it worth disassembling the plastic cap - seems to be held on with just 4 screws. Don't want to open it and find it's spring loaded or i don't need to do it ..
 

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No need to remove anything except engine cover to get the EGR out and have access to both bolts...


.…………….I also broke the MAP clip....they go brittle with time.....does not seem to make any difference...its still held solidly in place with the single bolt.
No need to remove anything except engine cover to get the EGR out and have access to both bolts...


.…………….I also broke the MAP clip....they go brittle with time.....does not seem to make any difference...its still held solidly in place with the single bolt.
Well i cleaned the EGR .. and the MAP sensor (also broke the clip !) .. Cleared the OBD codes, ran it for 10 mins before the engine light came back on .. Got 2 codes

P0402: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Excessive Detected
P010F: Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor A/B Correlation

Any ideas ? EGR broken ? Can I test it before shelling out any cash ? Thanks
 

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Sounds like the EGR is not fully closing.
 

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If you have ALFAObd or MES you could test the EGR in situ and it will tell you if the desired opening amount and the actual opening amount are the same.....
 
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