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Discussion Starter #1
Earlier this I had to have a replacement engine for my 156, how ever the planks that fitted it forgot about anti freeze as last week while going out the car started to heat up as there was a leak on the wter pump and oil cooler. So we stopped the car allowed it to cool and tried to set off, however the battery was flat so o i tried to bump the car and i heard a loud back fire. We got the car towed home after that. I charged the battery and the car fired straight up no problems.

I have replaced both water pump and oil cooler ( inc new filters and oil etc ) and the leak has gone away however now the car is running quite badly at times as if only firing on three cylinders however sometimes it fires up and runs spot on. does any one have any ideas as to what it might be?

thanks in advance folks
 

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I would check for water in the engine, look in the filler cap to see if it is creamy if it is possible head gasket. Check HT leads and plugs, check MAF by disconnecting "it will not idle but if you get full power MAF could be duff". Check fuel supply. There maybe damage to the water pump if the system was frozen.
It is a process of elimination , Im sure there will be more people along shortly who will have a greater knowledge of the 156 to offer other ideas.
Hope you get it sorted.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ive just tried the MAF ( disconnected it and fired the engine ) an dit wouildnt start at first then when it did it was still idling badly.
Would the reset work trick work? if so what do i do after stage 1 ( ie turn ignition to MAN for 90 seconds )?
 

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This is what was on another thread

1. Disconnect battery for 45 mins
2. Reconnect battery, and turn ignition to MAR for 90 secs
3. Turn off and leave 90 secs
4. Start engine WITHOUT pressing throttle and let the car idle for 15 mins (I repeat, do not touch the throttle whilst the car is idling)
5. Turn engine off and leave for 10 minutes
6. Start the car and go for a drive, using a number of styles (eg town, motorway, thrash etc)

So I did this, and my GT is reborn ! Faster, smoother, more torqier, even idle - it's bloody fantastic ! I can't believe how different the whole car feels.

It nearly cured the climate problem (well it blows a bit cooler) so if anyone has any tips on how to fix, let me know.

But the cherry on the icing on the cake was something I didn't expect, it seems to have cured my 'stepping' drivers window problem that I had given up on !!

Now the driver's window goes up and down as smoothly as the proverbial baby's bum.

So, if you're thinking of trying the ECU/Throttle reset and you have a hour or two on your hands this festive break, give it a go - it might work miracles for you to !
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry my mistake the water pump hasnt been changed.

Today i took out the plugs and cleaned them as they were horrible. However that missing is there...its sounds like a really poorly impreza ...i did try to drive a little with the MAF disconnected and gained some power so im going to replace that and the HT leads / coil pack this week.

Does anyone else have any ideas please
 

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A backfire can split the plastic inlet manifold .. I know, it happened to ours. You rarely see the split as it happens underneath.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
maybe this will help a little....if i floor the accelerator then its rough however if i let the revs build up then its smooth and sounds spot on.
 

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Procedures that require 45mins waiting time also require the shake of a bag of chicken bones and large cloud of Flooby dust blowing over it.
Any electronics is gonna self discharge in 20secs or less unless it's held in memory or battery backed (button cell)
How do we filter old wive's tales from proper procedure in forums?
 

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Ssomers

Sorry, I have to disagree.....perhaps it won't work for Systemshock....but I was as sceptical,tried the so called miracle cure....and it worked !!

There's no harm in trying.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
the quick 90 sec didnt work fully however there is an improvement...so later today imgoing to start on the coil packs and change them....simple stuff first
 

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Lifting a lead off a coil pack will show you which is contributing and which aren't
My limited experience of fuel injected engines has resulted in 2x O2 sensors (different occasions) being the culprit. These do wear out / get contaminated - representing one of the few things that CHANGE in a complete system.
If the sensor is on the edge of the operating envelope then 're-setting' the injection processor may help for a while - by returning mapping to factory set - but the inevitable drift will re-occur (even if its not the lambda sensor)
I've got mine apart (crank out) and I haven't come across a Diagnostic Socket to help you - Do other members know of one?
[edit] http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-145-and-146/88656-diagnostic-socket.html
 
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