Oh I had cut the wire of the old sensor cuz i couldnt get it out of the clips xD but no worries ill solder it back together and try again. And yes I have gotten better at it now hahaThen the sensor is not working, or the wiring is damaged. if the other crank sensor still did something, try that. You should be getting very good at switching them now
I only disconnected the negative terminal. Would that still cause a fuse to blow?If you did not disconnect the battery there is a chance when you cut the wires for the old sensor you may have caused a short circuit, even if the car was not on. Hopefully just a fuse blew if that is the case and a replacement of the fuse will remedy the problem.
Flooding an engine is when the car puts in too much fuel into the combustion chamber, sometimes because of overcranking and the chamber fills with fuel. If it is full of fuel there is not room for the air and the spark which are the other components needed for combustion. If the spark plugs were wet (with fuel) that means that the engine was flooded. Removing the plugs can allow the fuel to slowly evaporate if that's the case.
If the car was starting before why did you change the sensor?
So I should get a EOBD to be able to scan?You can still scan but being a European car, it uses EOBD, not OBD2. Nonetheless, they are very similar.
What were the original codes which has you deciding to change the crank sensor?
Is the induction trunking refitted correctly and the MAF sensor refitted and plugged in?
Did you touch anything on the battery positive terminal or disturb anything related?
Did you change the crank sensor from on top of underneath?
Makes sense. Thanks for the tip!You should have the appropriate diagnostic tool before started working on any car produce after 1990, especially when you're working on sensors. You can buy a Fiat KKL to USB cable for less than 20 euros and use it with MultiEcuScan software(There's a free version, but I'd recommend paying for the full version) and that would give you the dealer level diagnostic capability.
With the KKL cable and MES you could read a live RPM reading directly from the ECU, if it reads 0 when you're cracking the engine, then you know the problem came from the crank sensor, whether it's a bad replacement sensor or you didn't install it correctly.
I was also thinking of checking the multi block and the relays of the ECU. I will give those a look. The ground connections are good as I've refreshed them by scrubbing them with wire brush. And no I didn't connect my scan tool beforehand, which I know now to do so in the future!To further provide information (and following advice from @mikesalfa and @botasky), the issue of starting and immediately not running is more like a fuel issue.
Check that the earth connection at the flywheel end of the cylinder head is good, as should be the earth onto the ignition coil chassis and engine ECU. That said, I think the issue is more likely to be connected with the fuel pump or engine ECU relays. It may be the relay itself or simply oxidised terminals inside the multi-block connector. These are located in front of the battery. Be aware that sometimes less than scrupulous people put these multi-blocks back in the wrong places.
Unfortunately in this case it seems that failure to correctly diagnose the original problem correctly and perhaps performing the work has allowed an underlying fault to fully manifest which has resulted in the situation. With that statement in mind, I'd also check the main engine relay and fuses. Any high resistance connections could give the type of effects being experienced.
The issue is our cars do not have the relays and fuses in a sealed box which means all these critical circuits are exposed to weathering effects. I think that failure to maintain these things (because people just do not know) are probably the most common threads in this forum now.
Did your scan tool connect to the engine ECU before and if so when?