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alfa 156 2.4. Turbocharger, intermittent limp mode?

1867 Views 15 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Bravo16v
recently just had this issue for about 2 weeks, ive checked all the vac pipes, maf, map, airfilter, egr, and it still comes up with the mcsf light but intermittently and i then thought its possibly sticking vanes but the actuator arm moves freely?, so my final attack was to take the turbo off, today was the day and ive just looked at it both intake and exhaust fins spin freely, but part of the exhaust fin has snapped off, could this be the reason for the intermittent mcsf light to come on?

1077000_10153055174555193_1073988975_o | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

thanks
chris.
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nope it shouldnt affect it........if it was compressor end it would sound like a siren though
gotta wonder how that happened?
is there any up down play in the shaft.....gap around it looks ok though
if you have done all that then vanes could be sticking a bit or a small split in the big hoses...you dont mention them
Hi,i had intermitant overboost, changed map,vac hoses actuator solinoid, actuator seem'd to move ok,but when stripped the vanes were sticking,ended up with a recon unit as bearings had a bit of play aswell,
ahh ok, i was thinking the same, surely a little nip in the blade wouldnt affect it being the exhaust side..the top intercooler hose is aluminium, the bottom is still the original rubber pipe, it even says 2.4 jtd on it, ive checked that and there seems to be no tears or holes.

the turbo itself sounds healthy, no unusual noises from low down, when it boosts its a smooth delivery.

no up and down play, the usual fowards a backwards play, very minimal of course.

how do i get to the vanes that is the question, it doesn't jump out at me, but say if the vanes are sticking surely the actuator arm wouldnt move freely ?

thanks for the reply Hdseven :)
You can remove the wastegate in one piece 10mm bolts, the vains are obvious once opened, yea i kept discounting turbo as the arm moved, thought itermitant elec prob, sensors etc, the vaes did move when opend but very stiff so with heat i guess they were seizing,the play in mine was up/down no in out. also would the nip off balance it slightly atb
hmm ill have a look tomorrow, ive got an old gt2256v laying around which is seized so ill have a go with that before i try with the only working turbo ;)

how do you go about cleaning the vanes, im very cautious as i dont fancy put the vanes out of timing ? as in cleaning to hard

chris. :)
ahh ok, i was thinking the same, surely a little nip in the blade wouldnt affect it being the exhaust side..the top intercooler hose is aluminium, the bottom is still the original rubber pipe, it even says 2.4 jtd on it, ive checked that and there seems to be no tears or holes.

the turbo itself sounds healthy, no unusual noises from low down, when it boosts its a smooth delivery.

no up and down play, the usual fowards a backwards play, very minimal of course.

how do i get to the vanes that is the question, it doesn't jump out at me, but say if the vanes are sticking surely the actuator arm wouldnt move freely ?

thanks for the reply Hdseven :)
this should help with what u need to do......easier than me trying to explain it :)
VNT15-Turbo
ahh thank you for the link, ive been looking all over, maybe because i was looking for my turbo and found nothing!

ill give it a go tomorrow and upload some pictures to show the difference, that is of course if the vanes are stuck and its not something else.

thanks again!
if its off a good clean wont do it any harm anyway.....its a messy job though that carbon/soot yuck !
ive took it apart, and looked ok form the eye, but 3/4 of it was in soot and a few vanes were untouched, could explain the intermittent boost. who knows, but ive got plenty of time off to get it all back together, its lining up the rod(?) that controls the actuator rod or vice versa in the mounting plate where the vanes sit inside.

but i cant seem to get it right, may have a crack later at it but for now, its clean of any carbon crap.

here it is with a little clean.
1078818_10151487435111496_412853125_o | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
recently just had this issue for about 2 weeks, ive checked all the vac pipes, maf, map, airfilter, egr, and it still comes up with the mcsf light but intermittently and i then thought its possibly sticking vanes but the actuator arm moves freely?, so my final attack was to take the turbo off, today was the day and ive just looked at it both intake and exhaust fins spin freely, but part of the exhaust fin has snapped off, could this be the reason for the intermittent mcsf light to come on?

1077000_10153055174555193_1073988975_o | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

thanks
chris.
mcsf light come on usually on a light opening ?
just an update, turbo was back on the car this morning, wasnt run for 3 days, so ive slowly warmed it up, half throttle, quarter throttle & of course full throttle, and all seems fine....boost is silly instant now, no lag whatsoever or any hesistation annnd no light or beep either.

wanna thank HDseven for that link on how to get to the heart of the turbo ;)

and thanks to the others for the help too.

if anyone else has the same problem it may not always be the turbo, could be many other reasons why.

Chris.
another update, mcsf is still coming up now and then, and sometimes stays on. Ive checked with Fiatecuscan and the boost pressure is definitely too high for the desired boost pressure.
so obviously the boost is spiking even at 1800rpm and when de accelerating.

any ideas why the boost is too high, Maybe map related? and cleaning it wasnt enough.

cheers
chris.
Just a thought, original lower hose could be swelling, worth replacing anyway, 60 quid from autolusso, silicon.
another update, mcsf is still coming up now and then, and sometimes stays on. Ive checked with Fiatecuscan and the boost pressure is definitely too high for the desired boost pressure.
so obviously the boost is spiking even at 1800rpm and when de accelerating.

any ideas why the boost is too high, Maybe map related? and cleaning it wasnt enough.

cheers
chris.
Turbo what was fault code ?
the fault code was p2035 but brother worked it out, was a simple as the bloody map sensor, it wasnt turbo at all..
feel kinda stupid but the turbo is nice and clean anyway, it pulls much harder than it did before, luckily my bro has an alfa, so i tried his MAP and it worked like a treat, no more mcsf light.
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