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Discussion Starter #1
My wife's 156 1.8ts needs a service and I'm thinking of changing the stock airbox/filter, but I'm unsure on which way to go. I like induction kits but can't find one with a blanking plate, so I'm thinking of maybe replacing the stock filter with a JR filter.

I can also see that the 3 bolts which I think I need to remove to get to the filter are very badly corroded, so I've already been out with the WD40, but not tried them yet.

Just wondered what other peeps thoughts are on this please................
 

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I'll upset the purists again by saying that one of my main reasons for fitting a Ramair cone filter was to get rid of that crappy plastic box and its manky rusty fixings hidden down in the corner. It's an even worse design than the 20v oil filter placement and that's a fine example of applied stupidity.
 

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I would rather get rid of the stock casing and have a cone tbh, so I agree with you. I think that's the way I'll go, but I would have preferred a blanking plate to ensure cool air.
 

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I wanted a quick fix as I could tell that the rusted-in standard filter hadn't been changed since Pontius was a pilot. I intend to fit a heat shield round the filter but for the moment it's working ok without - and the plastic box is no more!
 

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I would rather get rid of the stock casing and have a cone tbh, so I agree with you. I think that's the way I'll go, but I would have preferred a blanking plate to ensure cool air.
Keep the original airbox and fit an induction kit into it then remove the resonator and fit the intake pipe from a GTA (search the forum for GTA mod). The reason for keeping the original box is to drastically reduce the risk of hydrolocking the engine. You're also best to use a non-oiled filter as the oiled ones can kill your MAF. Many of us have used the Apiro Torque universal filter from Regal Motorsport, it costs peanuts and really does work.
There's a great thread about it in this lounge, I'll dig it out and post the link...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Right, the plastic box is coming out then, from the top. So I guess battery/tray removal, and hopefully it'll come out. Any other tips please, before I tackle this.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Keep the original airbox and fit an induction kit into it then remove the resonator and fit the intake pipe from a GTA (search the forum for GTA mod). The reason for keeping the original box is to drastically reduce the risk of hydrolocking the engine. You're also best to use a non-oiled filter as the oiled ones can kill your MAF. Many of us have used the Apiro Torque universal filter from Regal Motorsport, it costs peanuts and really does work.
There's a great thread about it in this lounge, I'll dig it out and post the link...
I hadn't read this before I did my last post, so thanks and I will take your advice.
 
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I had fun removing rusted bolts on my Sele airbox. If you can get the airbox out, it is easily fixable. I drilled out the bolts and captive nuts and fitted 3 long stainless bolts to the box, I then drilled and bonded some oversize nuts and washers to the lid. The top then held on with 3 big wing nuts. Made filter change a breeze. I had a foam air filter, I think ramair brand. Made no difference to drive ability or noise.

For a solid filter box replacement, try a BMC CDA. They are an easy fit, allow a cold air feed from outside the engine bay and you'll never need a new filter, just a wash and brush up every year or two.


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I had fun removing rusted bolts on my Sele airbox. If you can get the airbox out, it is easily fixable. I drilled out the bolts and captive nuts and fitted 3 long stainless bolts to the box, I then drilled and bonded some oversize nuts and washers to the lid. The top then held on with 3 big wing nuts. Made filter change a breeze. I had a foam air filter, I think ramair brand. Made no difference to drive ability or noise.

For a solid filter box replacement, try a BMC CDA. They are an easy fit, allow a cold air feed from outside the engine bay and you'll never need a new filter, just a wash and brush up every year or two.


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I've applied WD40 to the rusted bolts today and will leave overnight. I'll try and see if they are free tomorrow. I think I saw a couple of rusted bolts holding a bracket between the airbox and battery tray as well that looked very corroded.
 

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Cheers for this and I will bear it in mind. I run oiled filters on my Volvos, but have to be very careful to not over oil, and have so far managed not to jigger a maf.
You can remove the MAF and fit the filter, take the car for a 20mile blast and it should suck the excess oil off.
Don't expect power gains though, what you do get it improved throttle response, especially mid-range, better noise and you don't have to struggle every year to change the standard filter.
If you read through the thread you'll see I was a skeptic to begin with but I took the plunge and think its a worthwhile mod.


Oh, and I'm getting 2mpg better fuel economy since fitting it and the old filter had less than 1k miles on it...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You can remove the MAF and fit the filter, take the car for a 20mile blast and it should suck the excess oil off.
Don't expect power gains though, what you do get it improved throttle response, especially mid-range, better noise and you don't have to struggle every year to change the standard filter.
If you read through the thread you'll see I was a skeptic to begin with but I took the plunge and think its a worthwhile mod.


Oh, and I'm getting 2mpg better fuel economy since fitting it and the old filter had less than 1k miles on it...
I use JR filters whenever I can as they seem really good quality, and I saw a noticeable increase on mpg with all cars that I've fitted then to. I'll post a picy up when I've done the job, and the power gains don't matter as it's the wife's car.......
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Right, applied WD40 to the 3 airbox nuts and just tried them. 2 came out with no problems with a 7mm socket, and they 3rd has crumbled away. Therefore, that has steered me towards getting rid of the original airbox, and fitting an induction kit.

I will speak to BSR whom I normally use for the JR gear, and if they haven't got a kit for this car, then it'll be a K & N.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You can remove the MAF and fit the filter, take the car for a 20mile blast and it should suck the excess oil off.
Don't expect power gains though, what you do get it improved throttle response, especially mid-range, better noise and you don't have to struggle every year to change the standard filter.
If you read through the thread you'll see I was a skeptic to begin with but I took the plunge and think its a worthwhile mod.


Oh, and I'm getting 2mpg better fuel economy since fitting it and the old filter had less than 1k miles on it...
The mafs on the Alfa's shouldn't be any more sensitive than the Volvo's I wouldn't have thought, but I will be careful of the excess oil. I've recently cleaned and re-oiled my filters, and touch wood, all seems good so far.
 
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As mentioned in the threads be careful where you position the new filter it is always best to give it fresh cold air rather than hot engine air and keep it high enought to keep water splash out.
The original intake pipe is up inside the inner wheel arch behind the arch guard. Well out of the way . That is the main reason they recommend you keep the original air box :thumbs:
 

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Right, applied WD40 to the 3 airbox nuts and just tried them. 2 came out with no problems with a 7mm socket, and they 3rd has crumbled away. Therefore, that has steered me towards getting rid of the original airbox, and fitting an induction kit.

I will speak to BSR whom I normally use for the JR gear, and if they haven't got a kit for this car, then it'll be a K & N.

The Apiro Torque filter fits on top of the airbox perfectly and the airbox with the V6/GTA mod feeds it cold air, so no need to remove the original airbox....
 
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