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Discussion Starter #1
I have fitted a set of AH Motorsports track control arms to my 1986 Sprint. AH Motorsports

I am attempting to adjust the camber (-3 degrees) but I have run out of thread for adjustment and I can't even dial in standard camber.

Does anyone have any experience with these or have some photos of how they should be mounted?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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hi,

i would be tempted to ring the man himself, he can be hard to get hold of as i guess he is very busy, but when i have sopken to him he is very helpfull, im sure he can put you on the right track
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just got an email from Adie with a breif explanation, which was very helpful.

Apparently I need to slot 3 of the 4 bolt holes to the hub, does anyone have any experience with how to go about doing this?

Also, does anyone on these forums have any experience with these? Is there anything aside from the camber issue that I should know about?
 

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I didn't realise the Sprint needed that much camber. I know the early Alfasuds had over 2° negative, but a quick Google found a value of 1°14' negative for the Sprint.

Factory settings aside, the usual trick for making the camber adjustable on strut-equipped cars is to slot the top mounting so that the strut can be moved in and out. This changes the angle of the strut, and hence the camber angle. Aftermarket slotted camber adjustment plates are available for a number of models, although I am unaware of one made specifically for the 'Sud/Sprint.

The other trick (which is what AHM have recommended) is to adjust the angle of the strut-to-hub interface. This is possible on the 'Sud/Sprint because the cast iron hub assembly is bolted to the strut with 4 bolts through a flange with an axis parallel to the driveshafts. So if you were to slot 3 of the four holes in the strut mounting flange, and loosen the fourth bolt, you could swivel the axis of the hub relative to the strut. Presto! Change of camber.

This would be quite a coarse adjustment (compared to moving the strut tops), and might be difficult to equalise side for side, but it is possible to do with care and a lot of experimentation (loosen off, adjust camber, reassemble, re-measure, readjust etc.), and there is the potential for adding a lot more camber than the strut top method, which might only be able to change by a couple of degrees.

The only other thing you need to worry about with this type of adjustment is that the inside of your roadwheel will move closer to the strut itself. Not a problem with standard wheels I would have thought, but if you are fitting bigger tyres on wider rims with negative offsets...

Lauren
 

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The arms are designed for race use so std camber
would never be used
race cars run from 3 to 6 degs of neg camber
depending on tyre

dont adjust the camber on the strut top as this give very bad bump steer on alfa suds or 33s
moving it on the hub keeps the strut in the same angle
hope this helps

:)
 

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The arms are designed for race use so std camber
would never be used
race cars run from 3 to 6 degs of neg camber
depending on tyre

dont adjust the camber on the strut top as this give very bad bump steer on alfa suds or 33s
moving it on the hub keeps the strut in the same angle
hope this helps

:)
do you do a kit of any sort to make the adjustment on 33's? i did my sud years ago , but the sud was a more simple plate with 4 equal spaced / square arrangement holes ... the 33 hub seems a bit tricky... any tips ?

thanks mate
 

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Hello,

I've got a (spare) pair of slotted Sud hubs from a class F racer and will post images sometime over the next couple of days, once I've dug them out of my garage.

Cheers,

Adam
 

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On the Minari, we have slotted mounting holes at the inside end of the trailing arms. Gives a fair amount of adjustment but requires the toe-in to be reset each time you move it.
 

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Sud camber adjustment

I agree re not slotting the top strut mount. Attached is a photo that I took from another thread ages ago (don't know how to get to it now) re a guy who drilled his struts and had some camber offset sleeves made up. Below is a link to a nice way to dial in camber without the risk of the settings being bumped once adjusted.
 

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I am just about to correct for too much - camber and was thinking of a good way to do it, that looks great.
Did it work ok, were they easy to correct the camber?
 

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I haven't communicated with the owner but the concept would work. Regards ease of adjustment, it might be a little bit fiddly but it would be quite straight forward. Keep in mind that one mount bolt remains standard so that once you have achieved the target setting you would leave the pivot bolt tight and then simply remove the other bolts one at a time, insert the offset sleeve then refit & tighten the bolt. You wouldn't want the sleeve to be too tight or else you might have difficulty getting them out again. A close tollerance but free sliding fit in to the upright would be sufficient. I presume that the owner uses either 4 offset sleeves per strut and two bolt diameter reducer sleeves, without offset, so that he can standardise to smaller bolt diameter sizes, or he uses 4 offsets and reuses the standard bolt in the pivot hole. I would try to reuse the original bolt in the pivot to reduce machining costs.

Another alternative is to go to a specialist alignment shop and ask for offset camber adjusting pins. They usually come as a pair, as most strut systems are only mounted using two lower bolts per side. Being that the Sud/33 has 3 bolts I would most likely still end up machining two offset sleeves for each strut, putting those in to the remaining two bolt holes after the physical camber adjustment was made and locked using the camber offset bolt and original pivot bolt. Depending on available offset sizes for your purpose, this might be a more user friendly combination. See the photo link for what they look like.

You mentioned that you have too much camber?.... Are you wanting to reduce neg camber to save on tyre wear, or for some another reason?... Check your top strut mount first because as they age they sag inwards and this will increase neg camber and also the SAI angle.
 

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you wouldn't be able to insert the offset sleeves with one bolt still in :)
I guess you would put in all the sleeves, get the correct camber, tighten up the bottom bolt, remove the wheel and rotate the pivot sleeves to line up and then tighten up?? :)
Can you get in contact with the owner? To get the exact measurements, I could then give to my engineer guy :)
 

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You're in luck as I managed to find the thread from the other forum... You might be able to contact the guy direct and ask. If you're able to get any feedback please post it here so we can see how it went. He claims 2.3 deg neg adjustment using these sleeves. Here is the link: 1983 Alfa Sud Track car
 

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If you just want to change the camber once then you could probably just keep the top bolt in as standard and have no bolts in the other 3 holes. Set the camber to the desired amount then mark the strut where the holes in the hub should be and drill the strut to match up, probably need to add a slight bit of weld to fill the old holes so the camber wouldnt slip back under a high load.

Those offset sleeves would be a pain to manufacture as the amount of adjustment would have to vary for each bolt hole, very small at the top and large at the bottom - you can see from the pic of the sleeves that they are all different in their amount of maximum adjustment

A long time ago I had a Mk1 Fiesta RS which had adjustable camber using offset bolts, previous owner had bought everything from Ford RS for camber and castor adjustment, it also had special RS dampers, springs, ARB's, wheels, gearbox and various engine mods.
I once took a large jump in the car and unfortunately the camber shifted, resulting in a large change to the toe alignment, from that point on I added a spot weld on the side of the offset bolt so that it couldnt move again unless I wanted to change it.
 

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Yes, I want to reduce negative camber for tyre wear on the road, I want to be able to dial it in again for track day use with race tyres :)
I think if the sleeves have a number on them and an indent, when the correct camber is achieved the indent on the sleeve can then be marked on the strut, allowing the desired camber to be dialed in again.
The sleeves all look the same, I am a bit worried now.
I can give my engineer a hub and strut to play with I guess.

To get rid of too much negative camber, shouldn't the bottom bolt be the pivot point?

Thanks for the link, anyone a member of that forum??
 

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I've been thinkin bout how to reduce -ve camber on lowered 33s (without slotting the struts)for some time now, and the conclusion i have come to is that adjustable radius arms would be the best solution. Then, as Al has suggested, it would be easy to add some -ve camber for track days whilst prolonging the life of your road tyres the rest of the time.

Perhaps AHM would be prepared to make fast road versions for us non racers? Ones that would allow adjustment back to 0' for a max of 35mm drop maybe. Only issue would be if a road car would pass an MOT with them fitted?!

Any thoughts?
 

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also the "offset camber adjusting pins" won't work on our setup, unless you drilled the rough the thread on the hub and then had a nut instead.
 

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Just slot the strut easy dosnt effect bump steer etc
just check your drive shaft is not bottoming out when you have finished

we have ajusted camber this way on suds and 33s for 20 years
it works
In Class F racing days thats how we all did it
cheap and i used to bend a strut in crashes and the
hub had not moved

I still make my final camber ajustment this way now on my 33
with custom hubs and struts :)
 
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