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If any coilpack is cracked then you need a new non-cracked one to replace it with.
 

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They just crack with age which is also accelerated by the fact they are forever being heated up and cooled down again.

My recommendation would just be to replace them but if you are tight for money and/or have plenty of time and want to want to try a cheap fix first, then the way to do it is by finding ALL the cracks (including any tiny hairline ones) and fill/cover them with a high temperature epoxy resin. Make sure the surface of the coil pack is completely clean and 100% dry before doing this. Let the epoxy FULLY dry & cure before refitting the repaired coil pack(s).

Sometimes this can work and sometimes it doesn't (or you will find you missed a crack or a new one has appeared) so it requires an element of patience with some trial and error thrown in.
 

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damn, need to spend like 900USD to fix that :(

First of all, make sure that new coils will fix the problem. Try to repair the coils as GialloEvo suggested.. that might fix the problem..

If it doesn't work, try to borrow some coils from someone who has a Twin Spark and see if those solve the problem.

Check they are the same coils. There are two types: one with a "square" connector block and another type (CF2 / plastic cover engine) that has a more round square connector block.

I'm guessing you have the alloy-top engine, so you need the "square" connector.


If those different coils work, then you know what the problem is.


You can get a replacement coil from Car Parts and Car Accessories - Buy Parts By

You want INT12716 not INT12717.

They're £22.51 plus VAT (20% sales tax) which is the cheapest I saw anywhere (even eBay) at the moment.. just I don't know if they can deliver to Argentina..


Ralf S.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
thanks guys, will try to fix it myself to see if have some improvement.

if run better than just will change the coils for new ones
 

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120C should be enough... you only want it to last long enough to see if it fixes the problem.. but anyway I don't think the coils get as hot as 120C.. otherwise the oil inside the head would be boiling the coolant.

Hopefully some repairs of the coil will solve the mystery at least, even if buying new coils is a rather expensive sport on a T/Spark..


Ralf S.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
thanks ralf i already glue the coils, waiting a few hours to sandpaper again and place another coat of glue.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #34
i tryed to remove the connectors from the small sparks so disconnected 3rd and 4th Main coil connectors and the car fail like if are connected.

maybe i can try to change the coil order to see if improve or fail something. im trying to find some way to verify 100% if some coil/coils are dont working.

With the car running, if i disconnect the small sparks connector from the coils and get it close (like 5mm from the connector) i see the spark comming. so the coil are sending sparks at least.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
some updates, now removed the maf and temperature sensor and clean it with alcohol, then refit it again and remove the air filter, now the car run better, but i think that dont sound very well, looks like fail (less)
 

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Discussion Starter #36
bad news, after clean all these things no imprvement i goto take a ride with the car and still doing the same problems.

when i press the accelerator, the car try to stop it instead go faster :S
 

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Discussion Starter #38
ok, thanks

more updates.....

Today measure the pressure before enter the petrol into the injectors, and i found that its very low!, less than 2 bar!

i tested it last week and was close to 3 bar!

or the pressure gauge are broken or the pump or regulator are broken.

will goto purchase another pessure gauge tomorrow morning.
 

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I'm a bit stumped now... :confused: but it's annoying because probably the problem is a simple one, if only we can find out what it is.. :lol:

The coils sound like they're not great but probably working enough... I would be more certain about the coils if the injector light was flashing when the car hesitated... but anything is possible. You should try to replace the coils when you can.

I hope the fuel pressure reading shows you have a low pressure...

If you're waiting for something to do, it might be worth unscrewing the fuel pump and lifting it out of the tank... You won't be able to take it out unless you unscrew the fuel level sender tube... but for this inspection you don't need to do that (the plastic will be hard and brittle now.. it's pretty old)...

Have a look at the rubber hose that lifts the fuel from the bottom of the pump to the plastic pipe at the top of the pump (the one that carries petrol to the engine). That rubber hose inside the pump may be split and leaking petrol back into the tank, instead of sending it all down the plastic pipe..


Ralf S.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
have the new gauge!, waiting that dry the adhesive that i put in the connections.

If get low pressure, and the rubber hose are broken, can i replace it with any hose?
 
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