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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After spending the best part of a weekend the other month installing a new alarm (aftermarket) I thought id save everyone a job by making a list of the wire colours, where they go etc etc.

Here are some PICTURES of the installation:




- The boot solinoid relay location




Now for the WIRING:
1st Connector Block:

Light Blue – Right Hand Side Indicators (see additional info)
Light Blue+Black – Left Hand Side Indicators (see additional info)
Orange+Black – Ignition Switched Live (Live When Key Turned + When Starting)
Gray+Black – Boot Light (-)
Gray+Red – Bonnet Switch
Red+White - +12v Constant
Gray+Yellow – Right Hand Door Lock Motor (see additional info)
Light Blue+White – Left Hand Door Lock Motor (see additional info)

2nd Connector Block:

Black – 0v
Orange+Black – Front LED +12v in
Yellow+Red - +12v Constant
White+Red – Alfa Tester (don’t need)
Orange – Remote Control Signal Unit (don’t need)

To install the remote boot release, attach the wire from the alarm module to the +12v signal wire on the back of the relay connections..

Cables Run From Front:
X2 to the front door lock/unlock wires which are in the big connector block at the side of the relays under the ignition barrel.
Light Blue
White
(I can’t remember which is which, just plug in and try, if locking when it’s supposed to be unlocking – simply swap the wires round)

X2 cables to the LED which is in a white connector block which is under the ignition barrel aswel.
Black – 0v
Orange+Black – +12v
(I had to run new wires to the LED because my alarm had a switched 0v rather than a switched +12v)

Additional Info:

Central Locking is NEGATIVE triggered

Light Blue+Black
Light Blue
These two wires needed diodes on them as they are independently controlled, if no diodes are used, then when you use the left or right hand indicators all of the indicators come on (like pressing your hazard light button). I used 10A diodes – just to be on the safe side because I put 500mA diodes in firstly and they burnt out because the indicators draw something like 5A of current so I used 10A just to be safe.

Gray+Yellow
Light Blue+White
These two wires I joined together as these are the NEGATIVE inputs for the door triggers.

I also installed remote start but I took it off as I found out it voids your insurance if your car gets stolen (because you have to glue your imobiliser chip next to the ignition barrel)..
Remote start is easy enough, think it was only 4 or 5 wires that needed connecting, pm me if you need any help.. :)
 

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Hello.
I bought aftermarket remote locking .
I have a problem wiht fix to my 156 1.8 TS.
I don´t know which connector is which.
Remote locking is KEETEC CZ 100 NEW.
Can anybody wrote to me which cable in remote control is which in car central locking unit.
Many thanks.
 

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Thanks! I'll be using this next week of two...
What's wrong with the factory fitted alarm (they're actually good alarms) or are you just after one with more functions?
 

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What's wrong with the factory fitted alarm (they're actually good alarms) or are you just after one with more functions?
mine doesn't have any :D and it's a good workaround to spare the often broken lock barrells on the one's that don't have remote control. I'll be fiting just a remote lock, not an alarm.
 

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mine doesn't have any :D and it's a good workaround to spare the often broken lock barrells on the one's that don't have remote control. I'll be fiting just a remote lock, not an alarm.
OK, now I understand :D

Do you not have remote keys and a remote receiver in the roof of your car (by the rear view mirror)?
 

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OK, now I understand :D

Do you not have remote keys and a remote receiver in the roof of your car (by the rear view mirror)?
no remote keys, no remote receiver, a shame :rolleyes: was a bit disapointing when I bought it. a 1.6 TS (rare here in Portugal) with almost every extra except the remote lock and the 15' wheels that I would like too. with the aftermarket remote won't look as nice as the alfa key alone, but I don't have other options...

but I love her anyway :D
 

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You can actually retrofit the remote central locking receiver to a car that doesn't have one with a bit of work (the required electrical wiring and plug is still present).

However, secondhand keys with working remote circuits in and a secondhand receiver may end up costing the same as an aftermarket kit once you've had the remote receiver virginised.
 

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I already have an used aftermarket remote lock, but I could be interested in your alternative. Have any links?

Also, if is possible to plug an aftermarket remote lock through the connectors used for the alfa original one (i.e. N67 connector near the rear view mirror) without having to cut any original wires?
 

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I already have an used aftermarket remote lock, but I could be interested in your alternative. Have any links?
Just keep checking on eBay. There are usually second-hand remote keys on there quite often and the remote receiver units also come up from time to time (otherwise just ask someone who is breaking their car for one).

So you would need one of these and two of these. You need to make sure the keys are CODE-1 keys and not CODE-2 keys. You can tell by looking at the stamps on the blade. A CODE-2 key will have a number "2" stamped on it while a CODE-1 key won't (see this picture for the difference).

If your current keys have solid heads you will need to cut them open to retrieve the immobiliser transponder chips (see this picture) which you will then need to place inside the remote keys (see this picture).

Then you will need to get the remote receiver virginised (I can do this for you) after which you can then program the remote keys into it. Simples :D

Oh yes, and you would also need to cut the original used blades from the remote keys and glue your own blades in. Not that easy but do-able (see this post for a suggestion on how to do that).

Also, if is possible to plug an aftermarket remote lock through the connectors used for the alfa original one (i.e. N67 connector near the rear view mirror) without having to cut any original wires?
Yes. You can use something called "Scotch-Locks" (just search Google for those).
 

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Well, those are very nice news :D

But I think I'll be trying the aftermarket remote, first.

On the 2nd question I think I didn't make myself clear. Since I'm only installing a remote lock, could I fit the aftermarket remote wires though the N67 connector, where the original receiver is fited? If there is available room inside too, of course :D

And thanks for all the typing work :)
 

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Yes you can connect to / control the central locking via the light-blue and white wires in the N67 connector (pins 5 & 6). A momentary connection to earth on the blue wire causes the doors to lock and a momentary connection to earth on the white wire causes the doors to unlock. This is what the remote receiver unit actually does to lock/unlock the car when the button on a remote is pressed.
 

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That would be too easy :) All that is left is power, and I can get that through the black and red wires (pins 4 and 3) through the same connector. Am I right?!
 

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All that is left is power, and I can get that through the black and red wires (pins 4 and 3) through the same connector. Am I right?!
Yes, that's correct, you can :)
 
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