Alfa Romeo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Last night I parked on a hill and left it in gear. I then forgot it was in gear and started it and it lurched as you'd expect.

Then, turning the key in the ignition didn't do a thing. I eventually got it started by just spamming the ignition on and off until it randomly started. Got it home and the next day it's the same story.

Spoke to someone who said " the starter motor will have blow as it’s overloaded trying to force start in gear " and he showed me a pic of the fuse in question:

939265


But his instructions on how to fix it were vague and assumed prior knowledge (and I know nothing).

Any advice? shall I just order a new fuse, if so how do I install it? I'm just a bit lost. I have no tools as I've just moved country so might need to go out and get stuff.
 

·
Administrator
GT 2.0 JTS 2007
Joined
·
5,324 Posts
Is that a picture of your car? Have you checked the fuses with a multimeter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Is that a picture of your car? Have you checked the fuses with a multimeter?
That's him pointing out where the fuse is but mine looks about the same. I don't have a multimeter. Might see if I can buy one tomorrow on a Sunday :/
He suggested hooking up two points with a jump lead to bypass it or something? as a way to start it and to possibly diagnose the issue. I also don't have jump leads.
 

·
Administrator
GT 2.0 JTS 2007
Joined
·
5,324 Posts
The fuse that he is pointing to is the: 'Engine compartment control box' (JTD versions) F70 (MEGAFUSE) and is a 150amp. There is also an 'Ignition switch' F72 (MAXIFUSE) 30amp which is the fuse next to where is he pointing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The fuse that he is pointing to is the: 'Engine compartment control box' (JTD versions) F70 (MEGAFUSE) and is a 150amp. There is also an 'Ignition switch' F72 (MAXIFUSE) 30amp which is the fuse next to where is he pointing.
and are you saying it might be either of those?
and if I can get a multimeter, where do I touch the pos/neg to in order to diagnose? (sorry I'm clueless)
edit: just found a diagram thanks to your info:
 

·
Administrator
GT 2.0 JTS 2007
Joined
·
5,324 Posts
Do not start the car or leave the key in the ignition.

Set the multimeter to DC volts, then put the black lead on the negative pole on the battery. you can check with the red lead both sides of the fuse for 12 to 14volts depending on how good your battery is. If you do not get a reading on both sides of the fuse being tested then it has blown.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Do not start the car or leave the key in the ignition.

Set the multimeter to DC volts, then put the black lead on the negative pole on the battery. you can check with the red lead both sides of the fuse for 12 to 14volts depending on how good your battery is. If you do not get a reading on both sides of the fuse being tested then it has blown.
Ok awesome. Appreciate the info. I'll get a multimeter tomorrow and give it a check (y)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
ok so I bought a multimeter and all the readings across all the fuses came out around 12.5. But I am getting a 'glow plug error' and the little wire icon is flashing. The car started first time but I didn't check if it would consistently start as I didn't want to drain the battery. So any thoughts on the glow plug thing?
 

·
Administrator
GT 2.0 JTS 2007
Joined
·
5,324 Posts
How old is the battery?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,882 Posts
I would rule fuses out for a start as cycling ignition and getting it started tells me fuse must be fine.

when you get the problem does anything happen,clicking from starter etc?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Could also be the ignition switch being bad, as you anyway got it started at a point. Try if holding the key in a specific orientation while turning the key helps.

Lähetetty minun MAR-LX1A laitteesta Tapatalkilla
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
I would rule fuses out for a start as cycling ignition and getting it started tells me fuse must be fine.

when you get the problem does anything happen,clicking from starter etc?
So when it did happen, there was just zero effect on turning the key. No sound, nothing. And then I'd just go on, off, on off with the key in quick succession and one of those times would fire it up. Quite randomly. Just to reiterate though, this only starting happening immediately following the starting in gear lurch incident.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Could also be the ignition switch being bad, as you anyway got it started at a point. Try if holding the key in a specific orientation while turning the key helps.
Not sure how one would change how the key is being held to start it?
Any ways to diagnose the ignition switch at home?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
589 Posts
I couldn't count the number of times over the years in various cars that I have accidentally activated the starter motor while the car was still in gear. It's never caused a problem.

You may have an issue that is merely coincidental with having tried to start the engine with the car in gear. My suspicion is that the electrical contacts in the ignition switch may be faulty, given that the starter motor did work after a number of attempts. This at least appears more or less identical to when the ignition switch failed in my old Accord, though of course it might not be...

Regards,
John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
589 Posts
"Not sure how one would change how the key is being held to start it?"

I recall (from a very long time ago) more than one ignition switch that needed the key to be used in a 'certain' way. The key fits into and operates the 'barrel' and the barrel operates the actual switch. If there are worn loose sloppy fitting parts then as the key is rotated, whether it is also pressed inward, pushed forward, pulled backward, or pressed up or down, all could affect whether or not the marginal contacts in the switch actually make an electrical contact, or not. Symptoms might be that the starter motor won't work (no cranking), or that it will work but the actual ignition doesn't (cranks but no sparks...).

Regards,
John.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Hmm, well the symptoms have abated for now. Kind of annoying that it might jump out at me when I'm least suspecting though. Still got the glow plug error too (not sure if that's related or what). I watched a few vidoes on diagnosing things and it does seem like if you turn the key and there's no reaction at all that it's the ignition switch. One guy in a vid said you could try your spare key as sometimes your key gets worn. I know this though... if I turn the key and the coil light goes out and I wait a second or two, it WILL NOT turn. I have to start the ignition the millisecond the coil goes out. Now that's gotta be unusual?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,851 Posts
Check out this link.....I have had the non starting clicking.....turned out to be a faulty earth problem.
Fixed by mechanic for £60

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Just coming back to this thread as it's still happening with no end in sight. I had an auto-electrician look at it but the damn car started every single time. But he did say the ignition felt clunky so it might not be making good contact.
Thought I'd look into the earth problem, any idea how I go about finding the earths on the GT to see if any are loose or damaged?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,882 Posts
Follow main one from battery to where it bolts to body/engine. Easiest thing is get yourself some suitable cable and add some earths. 1 from battery neg to body and one to the engine. Halfrauds usually sell battery cable with and m8 ring on either end that will do the job.
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top